deilenberger

That's actually what many people would call a bit sleazy..

acsX

I know, it just sucks to buy another OBII reader after just buying one a couple of months ago. But this is way better so chances are I'll probably end up selling the one I currently have.

CaymanCarver

Exactly when is the correct time to execute the ABS brake bleed?

I have an Autel scanner which provides a series of ABS/ASR test functions.

giese639

Thanks for the excellent review of the Foxwell NT530. I have a 2010 Panamera Turbo. The previous owner, after a minor front end accident, replaced the Porsche headlamps with aftermarket headlights, resulting in a headlight control fault warning showing on the dash. The after market headlights work okay though not as good as original Porsche xenons. I want to clear the fault, however. Can the Foxwell do this or do I need a PIWIS scanner? Perhaps the PIWIS won't be able to clear the fault either but want to try, as any faults showing are annoying.

deilenberger

I would guess (and it's very strictly a guess, since [1] I haven't done it [2] I know of no one who has done it [3] I don't have a Panny to try it out on..) that this won't work. Typically the light warning systems work by one of two means (and in some cases - perhaps both.) The oldest design, dating back to the mid-1980s was strictly current-based. The controlling device for the light is capable of measuring the current draw for the bulb, and if it's below a certain value or non-existent - it throws the lamp warning. The newer way that Porsche does it - will show a burned out lightbulb even if the light isn't on.. it sends a pulse of voltage through the bulb. If it makes a complete circuit is assumes the filament is intact and the bulb is OK. I think this is combined with the current draw test when the bulb is illuminated. In the case of HID lights - there may also be some intelligence going to the CAN buss since the CAN buss is connected to the HID ballast (why ballasts have to be coded to the car.)

What all that means is to turn off this warning - there may be a halogen/HID selection available in the PIWIS - but I'm not at all certain that switching it from what it is now will change how a bad light is detected.

deilenberger

As you're bleeding each circuit. Each circuit (one for each wheel) is activated as that circuit is being bled. IIRC - there are warnings in the factory documentation about turning the bleed function on for too long (I think 20 seconds is mentioned) because it possibly could cause damage from overheating. You can continue bleeding the circuit once you've bled the ABS/PSM modulator since the air from the modulator should be downstream of the modulator.

rubenhak

It might also affect the karma points negatively...

CaymanCarver

Thanks, that makes sense.

Out on the interwebz I was getting conflicting info on the timing. Some instructional vids and docs didn't say anything at all about the timing.
In fact, in some of the vids (w/GM cars) they just demo running the flush from the scan tool and then declaring the entire job done.

An old response on the P9 forum simply said not to bother with it ..its more important to do the flush. Which is what I did Sunday night.
Next time I'll run the ABS routines.

Thanks again.

deilenberger

You might still consider doing it. My '09 I ran the ABS pump while my mechanic friend went from wheel to wheel, and he was surprised at the amount of air released when the ABS pump ran. When done the pedal felt much firmer. My WAG is - there is a reason to do the ABS pump - and that's that air may get trapped in it and the only way to get it out is to flow it out by activating the pump while bleeding.

CaymanCarver

Not a WAG ..makes all the sense in the world.

IMO now (after recently doing the flush and considering your input) the reason to do it is two fold.
(1) to get any air bubbles out of the ABS system.
(2) to replace the fluid in the the ABS system with new/good stuff.

If the ABS pump is done too soon during the flush, the ABS system will get cycled with the same old fluid ..and possibly replace the old air bubbles with new.
If the ABS pump is done too late during the flush, the newly flushed line will get polluted with air bubbles and old fluid from the ABS.

So probably best to do the ABS pump as soon as you see new fluid coming out the bleeder ..and then finish with flushing the prescribed volume of fluid (plus more).
Just gotta make sure you get the polluted ABS fluid out of the line.

After the straight flush I did Sunday night ..I can definitely feel the diff in my pedal ..its more solid and the pedal travel has been reduced after a certain depression point.
But I can imagine it would've been even better if I had done a proper ABS pump in the process.

Tested on a mountain road yesterday morning in a slight drizzle and the brakes (and new Conti ExtremeContact Sport+ tires) rocked!

cavediver32043

Total BS!!

9eight7

FYI I used this to set the Macan’s brakes into brake installation mode so it was super easy to do.

rubenhak

Why do you need to do that? I've got breaks replaced with GiroDisc (not in the dealership), is there any programming needed after that?

9eight7

This is only needed on the Macan to spread the rear electronic brake to accommodate the new pads. Step 11 here talks about it.

elgato13

Has anyone figured out if you can disable TPMS? I tried messing around in there but the only thing I saw that was editable was the data for each wheel. Nothing to disable or change to not installed.