Arjan B.

Riccardo,

You have to be very carefull with doing the caliper restoring. It's all aluminium, so it will damage very easy. That's the reason for me to buy good used ones.

Hidden area's I will clean also, but first the important things.

I just picked up my rocker bolts and nuts and also the wheel nut bolts {2}

Nice day!

Ruairidh

Great Post Arjan, even for those - like me - who will never in their lives venture as far into do-it-yourself wrenching as this, it is fascinating stuff.

Thanks

Arjan B.

Last night, my baby sit evening, I found some time when mama was ready with her green workshops and all the ladies where gone, I placed the whell bolts. First I put them in the freezer for a few hours, made the plate hot where the bolts should be fitted with the hair dryer, and ......yes, the bolts went in pretty easy. Need a hammer and turn on the nut on the front side to guide the bolt straight [put a M16 nut between the origiginal weel nut and the plate] into the plate.

Done!

Nice day,

rutz964C4

Great post Arjan

maybe you could update your c2 rear brakes to C4 ones?, Are you planning to paint also the parts of the exhaust that have some rust?



ALEX

Arjan B.

Alex,

Painting the 'rust looking exhaust' does not make sense, it will burn off after a few weeks, and especially when I am going to the Nurburgring/Nordschleife, then the car has to work very hard..........

I am very satisfied with the brakes so far, No further wishes on that.
If.....I ever should modify the brakes, I want to have the 'Big Reds' under there and drilled rotors.......

Arjan B.

Tonight , I will place the rockers back. I cleaned them and the their axle last night with steel wool. This cleans very well any corrosion and we need a very clean and flat surface her. If the surface which clamps in the head is not clean, we will have a oil leaks in the future. The oil leaks from the valve area to the spark plug area and will leak to the lower part of the heads......

Dave R.

Alex,

Looks like Arjan already has the same rear brakes as the C4.

You can tell from the picture Arjan posted, which shows two pistons on each side of the caliper, making 4 pistons total. '90 & '91 C2 had only one piston on each side of the rear caliper, 2 total. '92 and later 964 C2 had same brakes front and rear as C4.

Arjan, nice descriptions!


Dave

Arjan B.

Guys,

After some server problems, I can update my story.

I worked on the car yesterday evening, installed the rockers and adjusted the valves, no pictures there, looks same as the valve adjustment earlier.
Tonight I install the valve head covers and spark plugs.
Also I got my good caliper from the guy who sells used Porsche parts, no problem, I sent him the old [ok size] caliper, and he gave me the one with the 13 and 15 mm hole caliper. In perfect shape.

May be check their internet site, they ship also parts everywhere. www.debock-porsche.nl Nice people overthere!
So, I will istall the caliper also tonight, and go on with all the other 1/2 done jobs.

May be I will make some pictures tonight, lets see what's interesting..................

Arjan B.

Hi,

First thing I did is the 12 spark plugs. Do some copper greas on the windings, and turn srew them in the engine by hand, as far as possible.
The rest with the wrench.

Arjan B.

Then I installed the gaskets in the valve head covers and installed the covers on the engine.

Arjan B.

Sorry, switched pics.........

After the cover installation, place the mud shields and then the spark plug wires.

Done..........

Arjan B.

Now it's time for the switch of the brake caliper..........

Be sure the saftey clip is removed, otherwise the brake fluid line will damage. Now we have plenty of space to move the caliper around.

WHEN THE PADS NEED TO BE REPLACED, PLEASE REMOVE THE CLIP ALSO, NO DAMAGE TO THE BRAKE FLUID LINE THEN.

I got a nice one from De Bock Porsche parts.

Arjan B.

As you see, the difference in calipers.......

Inside the piston measured for the good one is 13mm and 15mm, the on I had was 15mm and 18,5mm................

I will send it back tomorrow.

I am done for today, let's see what the weekend brings. I try to finish the brakes then, including the replacment of the brake/clutch fluid.

See you.

Arjan B.

WhenI refresh the brake fluid, I will use a DOT 4 brake fluid, and use a pressure bleeder. It'seasy to do by your self, and like this way you don't damage the brake master cilider.
If you use your feed and use the pedals to refresh the brake fluid, don't push the brake pedal to the bottem! This will damage your internal seals. The seals will come in area's where corrosion is, the master cilinder piston never comes that far out in normal brake procedure.

Till soon

Arjan B.

Hi,

Did some things today, Install the pad wear indicators on all the calipers. The old ones broke if I removed them.

Then I started to refresh the brake and clutch fluid. I placed the bleeder on the brake fluid container. Please block the overflow line as I showed a few pages back, and put the line in a bottle. Pressure on the system, and refresh from all the calipers the fluid, one after the other. These are 8 drain screws!!!

If you are finished, check all the drain plugs if they are tight enough.
Then find your way under the car............ drain the clutch cilinder. Use a lot of &##^!(T#&(^!^@&#!)#)!)@#)*(!)(words to get there and refresh the clutch fluid. I did the fluid almost 2 years ago, and it was still clear, also the clutch part. I drove a few times on the Nordschleife, and the brakes where very hot, no problems with boiling then, I use DOT 4 brake fluid for ordinairy roed cars. The new caliper I got was also internal clean, the first fluid that came out of there was clear and no dirt came with it. {use clear hose for drain, yuou can see the evt. air in the system and the brightness of the fluid that comes out.