Arjan B.

Clutch drain plug. Use 7 mm metric mini wrench.

Arjan B.

After you are done, please fill the container till max. Clean the container area from evt. brake fluid.

Arjan B.

I had some time extra today, so I started to install the air flow meter and the air filter

Please double check the nuts which hold the air flow meter inside!!!
Spray the connectors you can reach, spray them inside with electic grease for evt. protection.

Arjan B.

I installed the idle control valve back, you have to remove it if you want to remove the air flow meter. There is a srew which holds a wiring harness. You have to remove that srew, It's easier when you remove the ICV first.

Arjan B.

The last thing I did today, I filled the engine with fresh 0W40 oil.

Stating to fill 7 liters or USA guys, 2 gallons is fine too.
The rest I fill when the engine is hot, and the thermostat opened.

Next week I will continue, Take a brake tomorrow, see you guys bak asap

Nice weekend!

Arjan B.

I forgot to mention..... I checked also ALL the ball joints and rubber bearings which hold the front wishbones and rear axle parts. I checked them on to much space and dry ness. Noting found, all ball joints and rubber bearings are o.k. Also the rubber condoms from the drive shafts are fine.

This check is a part of the service which Porsche reccoments.

Arjan B.

I started a other topic about the difficulties I had with the pads who did get in heavy. Here is a 'decoration' caliper which shows a clear spot of the 'problem area'
Rust between the guide plate and the caliper pushes up the guide plate and so the pads needs to be 'modified' by removing the paint or more........
Then put enough cupper grease on the pads sides.

dave-C2

Arjan

This is a great thread!! Obviously you are taking the time to do things very carefully, with very good explanations at every step.

In reference to your zinc sprayed brake rotors, one minor comment, however, which you may already know about. There was a recent thread on "warped " rotors, which included a reference to a writeup by Carroll Smith, who was a race engineer. The point was that "warped" rotors are not warped, they have brake pad material deposited on the rotor face. This material can be removed carefully with "garnet paper", NOT sand paper or emery cloth - and not sand/bead blasting. The problem is aluminum oxide permeating the cast iron surface and leading to more pad deposits.

Hope this is helpful, but if you have sprayed the rotors before without any problems, then I wouldn't worry.

Thanks for your efforts and keep up the great job.

Dave

Arjan B.

Dave,
I remove the zinc spray on the brake pad contact area before I will drive the car. You can easely remove it also with paint thinner. Thanks for your advise.

Arjan B.

Connecting the wires

Arjan B.

Protect the weld against water

Arjan B.

And also the one million Dollar bolts and speed nuts..............

Made a extra ground for the o2 sensor, better response.

Arjan B.

Please be sure the alignment of the exhaust is fine, then tight all the bolts, and done......

Here the ground cable connection to the body. This way is the easiest and without drilling.

Arjan B.

Be sure the steel rings will sit o.k. double check and then tight the tension clamps.

Arjan B.

As you see, the exhaust is fine again.

I will fill up the gear box tomorrow, double check some things, and hopefully the engine runs fine tomorrow...........