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Old 11-23-2016, 01:52 PM
  #1351  
Rocket Rob
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Originally Posted by HiWind
Engine Drop technicals:

why does the manual call for the Accelerator cable to be detached at the pedal when it seems much simpler to do so at the engine?

Any insights appreciated!
Not sure. When I do it, I disconnect it at the engine. Its easy to reach, once the engine is lowered about 2".
Old 11-23-2016, 02:23 PM
  #1352  
JohnK964
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Originally Posted by freno a mano
This picture is on the right side under the air intake, what is missing there?
Probably nothing all the intakes have that threaded hole some are used to hold the fuel rail in place others are empty
Old 11-23-2016, 04:43 PM
  #1353  
HiWind
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Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
Not sure. When I do it, I disconnect it at the engine. Its easy to reach, once the engine is lowered about 2".
Thanks Rob ... yes I got the idea from one of your old posts (Garret e.d. diy or ricardo's engine drop picture thread I think)

.. once you work out how the little black plastic end (that holds the acc cable end bar) works and remove it, the cable slides easily through the support bracket grommet beneath the throttle body .. so that seems much simpler than the complications behind the pedal board.
Old 11-23-2016, 09:47 PM
  #1354  
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Originally Posted by M-911
Hi guys
A little knowledge needed please...
i've just got this s/h (quite old but in good condition) Sports cat from a friend and I can't find anything online about it. I believe it was in a race 964.
He said he's not sure whether it's 100 or 200 cell?, all this is little beyond me but it's now fitted and with my cup pipe I think it sounds great.
Anyone recognise this brand or know anything from the details engraved?? It says Part No. KAT C2 and I think 18/04 or 18704

Your help / info would be appreciated... Thanks!
Mike


Not sure but that appears to be the cat from the turbo of a 964T. I would need a larger picture. To be sure

Originally Posted by HiWind
Engine Drop technicals:

why does the manual call for the Accelerator cable to be detached at the pedal when it seems much simpler to do so at the engine?

Any insights appreciated!
It is recommended so not too break the cable the black plastic adjustment piece can get damaged while dropping the engine.
Old 11-24-2016, 05:26 AM
  #1355  
LM964
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Originally Posted by HiWind
Engine Drop technicals:

why does the manual call for the Accelerator cable to be detached at the pedal when it seems much simpler to do so at the engine?
Likewise, I disconnect from the engine throttle linkage. It's the only place I find I can easily take up enough cable slack too.
Old 11-27-2016, 02:46 AM
  #1356  
John McM
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I went to install an air con belt on my 1990 C4 and the new after market belt wouldn't fit. It doesn't appear to be long enough. It's 13mm x 1075mm. The Porsche one is 12.5mm x 1080mm.

Has anyone had the same issue or alternatively can tell me the correct technique? I have the air con compressor bolts loose and can push the compressor as far as the fan housing but it's not enough.
Old 11-27-2016, 11:14 AM
  #1357  
M-911
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Originally Posted by cobalt
Not sure but that appears to be the cat from the turbo of a 964T. I would need a larger picture.
Missed your reply... thanks!
Unfortunately that's the only photo I have, it's fitted now.
Cheers for the info.
Old 11-27-2016, 08:42 PM
  #1358  
Goughary
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Originally Posted by John McM
I went to install an air con belt on my 1990 C4 and the new after market belt wouldn't fit. It doesn't appear to be long enough. It's 13mm x 1075mm. The Porsche one is 12.5mm x 1080mm.

Has anyone had the same issue or alternatively can tell me the correct technique? I have the air con compressor bolts loose and can push the compressor as far as the fan housing but it's not enough.
The belt I have on my car is 1076. So that belt should work. Take the adjuster screw out to the end. And then unbolt the ac compressor if you need. Put the belt on and get it far enough to get the bolts back in...
Old 11-28-2016, 03:36 AM
  #1359  
LM964
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Originally Posted by John McM
I went to install an air con belt on my 1990 C4 and the new after market belt wouldn't fit. It doesn't appear to be long enough. It's 13mm x 1075mm. The Porsche one is 12.5mm x 1080mm.
I have a spare Continental 964/993 A/C belt here and the sizes are 13mm x 1085 which might explain why you are finding a smaller belt diffcult to fit.

The Conti listing on the DE ebay - http://www.ebay.de/itm/Keilriemen-CO...-/121817367931 I'm pretty sure a look around will return a belt more local to you.

If needed, the Conti barcode number is 4010858779115.
Old 11-28-2016, 11:58 AM
  #1360  
JasonAndreas
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Originally Posted by John McM
I went to install an air con belt on my 1990 C4 and the new after market belt wouldn't fit. It doesn't appear to be long enough. It's 13mm x 1075mm. The Porsche one is 12.5mm x 1080mm.
For pre-MY92 the belt length was 1080mm and MY93-98 it is 1085mm.
Old 11-28-2016, 01:43 PM
  #1361  
C4inLA
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Default Head stud threads

Noticed head studs are fully threaded, why ? Purpose ?
Old 11-28-2016, 03:40 PM
  #1362  
John McM
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Originally Posted by Goughary
The belt I have on my car is 1076. So that belt should work. Take the adjuster screw out to the end. And then unbolt the ac compressor if you need. Put the belt on and get it far enough to get the bolts back in...
Thanks, lots of alternator belt DIYs out there, but little on the air con belts. I 'assumed' that if the compressor could move fully towards the fan housing that would be enough.
Old 11-28-2016, 10:17 PM
  #1363  
JohnK964
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Originally Posted by C4inLA
Noticed head studs are fully threaded, why ? Purpose ?
Not all of them are 3 different type as far as I know

Last edited by JohnK964; 11-28-2016 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Bad info
Old 12-01-2016, 02:44 PM
  #1364  
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Crappy screen shot from a video. Engine is idling, pressure seems good and engine is cold judging by the gauge. BUT... shouldn't the oil level gauge in the red box be pointing to a higher level?
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:47 PM
  #1365  
Rocket Rob
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Originally Posted by LPMM
Crappy screen shot from a video. Engine is idling, pressure seems good and engine is cold judging by the gauge. BUT... shouldn't the oil level gauge in the red box be pointing to a higher level?
With the engine warm, idling for at least a minute on a level surface, yes then the oil level gauge should be horizontal. My guess is that this picture has a cold engine and perhaps its oil level is low too.


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