Those rates are way low in relative terms to what I face locally.

As to tie rods and ball joints, sure go ahead if you feel the need. If your steering is tight, wait. They will go eventually anyway, so why pay twice? Mine are due at the moment. I bought the car with 58k on it and have 96k now. No idea if they have ever been done. But they are wonky now for sure. Came on fairly quickly in the last 10k miles...

RS hub. There are many who disagree w me, and think single belt pulleys are a good idea. For me, in my experience, if you aren't exclusively tracking the car, it's a terrible idea. Under 3k rpm you will find the alternator doesn't make enough amperage, and you will lose low-end throttle response, which means nothing on a track, but means a huge amount to drive ability on the street. So do it if you like, but make sure you keep all the parts to revert back, cuz after hearing this, you will likely want to in short order. You will feel the difference.

 

^^ Interesting; I have no issues with the steering; the PO did re-do the steering rack in the past couple of years, so maybe they tightened/checked the rods and joints at the same time? Who knows, but I definitely don't feel like there is any substantial play in the steering, so maybe I'll wait on that.

I actually didn't mention getting an RS hub; he actually just put that in there (which is good, at least he knows what an RS hub is!). I bought a new OEM fan and hub because I thought I saw some cracking on mine, only to see on further inspection that it was just casting lines. Anyway, I've got $600 worth of parts sitting in my garage, might as well put them on, and I bought new belts because I figured I might as well change those while I'm at it.

Looking at the DIY for the change, it doesn't look that difficult, but I'd need that funny puller tool that looks like an arcade game to get the fan out, so might as well pay this chap $75 to do it.

Same sort of issue with engine mounts, can't tell if they're bad, but don't want to be the guy responsible for jacking up the engine to do it, and for $50 I'll let this guy do it. Would you do the RS mounts at $370 or do the Wevo's at $300? Seems like consensus on the board is the Wevo's are actually better...

 

My fan came right off the hub with no puller. I think I got lucky though.

 

Go with the wevos....easier and cheaper to replace the blocks later when they wear out.

 

^^ In 20 years?

After shipping vs. picking up, the cost difference between wevo's and RS's was less than $80, so I decided to just do the RS's. Also the wevo's wouldn't have shipped until the 20th, whereas I'll get my RS's Saturday or Monday.

 

I went to AutoZone and "borrowed" the largest (standard style) puller that they had to take my fan off. Just make sure that you put a nut/socket on the alternator shaft (to protect it) so you don't mess that up while using the puller.

BTW, I agree that the labor rates seem too low.

 

It's worth it to purchase one as they aren't expensive and come in more handy than you think: http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...e/pullers.html

 

I got the 3 pc HF set about 5 years ago and used it many times on my cars and tractor. Hasnt broken yet!

 

Need new RS sized front rotors - slotted preferred over 'drilled' - and rears too but 993 C2 sized ... Where do you track driving guys source these?

Thanks!

Matt

 

I love the look of the 1973 Porsche 911 rsr but I have always wondered, what is the purpose of the hole in front of the rear wheel arch?
Here is a picture for "reference"

 

That hole allows you to remove/install the torsion bar for the rear suspension. All pre-964 911's have that hole.

 

So is it easier to remove the torsion bar in the 964?

 

964's don't have torsion bars. They have coil over springs on the shock absorbers.

 

yep, the factory did it for you.

 

Thanks!