jimonycricket

I think these wheels will fit, but I figure I should ask just to make sure.

Specs are as follows
18x8.5 et50 for the front
18x9.5 et50 rear

Mr.Alex

Yes, I'd recommend a 3mm spacer in the rear to make sure it clears the oil line.

K964

What is the absolute Best sounding exhaust on a N.A. 3.6L 964? So NOT impressed with my current Fabspeed Maxflo. Want something with *****. Loved the Fister Stage 3 on a former 993 and the Sharky bypass on my 7-3.2 makes me smile. Big time.

Thanks for the input!!!

Mike

pi5tolpete

I'm quite pleased with my maxflo on dual tips.

Mr.Alex

I'm not sure how it sounds in person, but I want something along the lines of this. It has a nice growl but retains some of the aircooled purr.

cobalt

I have stock headers. a dansk 100 cell cat with magnaflow 3"in/out muffler cup air box , g pipe and dansk 4" tip. Ask Flying tomato what he thinks. It is IMO one of the best sounding exhausts A bit loud but really sporty and very 964 sounding. IMO blows the sound of ^^^^^ away. Also does not drone like some can.

deadendd9009

Any tips on how to reinstall the power steering pump console back on without tearing the new o-ring/cam seal?

breljohn

OK, let's try to describe my issue.
When I use my flasher to the left, it goes in position but doesn't come back.
When I use it to the right, it doesn't go in position, like it's stuck.
I assume there's a pin or something inside that's out of place.
Any idea how to fix it?
Do I need to replace the whole steering column assembly?

Thanks!

cobalt

Unless you are very handy they are disposable. They are pop riveted together with little springs and other parts needing to be in their proper places. I have drilled the rivets and been able to repair them it is not for the faint at heart but if you don't try you won't know and these parts range between $114 to $330 new from sunset depending on which of the 20 or so different variations your car needs.

breljohn

Thank you sir!
Helpful as always!
Sounds like I'm getting a new one. lol

K964

Thanks for the responses to my question!!!

Goughary

Part #928-315-211-02

there are two - they sit in the rear - there is a short line from one to the rear diff lock and a longer line to the front diff lock coming out of these two valves.

Question is this - do they ever go bad? if so - what are the symptoms - what do they do exactly?


Illustration 305-15 in the PET part#27 on the illustration.

I'm going to replace the hard line on a friend's C4 to the Longitudinal lock, and am curious about these pressure valves since i have never touched them. No clue how they function.

Goughary

Another question I have meant to ask...

When bleeding the system a few weeks ago, we got to the end and I wanted to bleed down the level in the reservoir so that it wasn't over full.

I put the reservoir cap on and had a friend pump the brakes and hold and I was going to open the bleeder on a caliper to let out some fluid....but fluid started squirting out of the reservoir cap. There has to be a simple reason for this, but it had been my understanding that this can't happen. So is there something wrong on the car that needs attention? Or did we miss something...

Mr.Alex

Two small questions:

1] For those who occasionally rub tire on the front driver side fender where it meets the bumper, would a mild fender roll in that area take care of that? Or is the only other option gently grinding away like some others have done.

2] How many of you guys have that occasional chain drag/rattle for a second or two at start up?

Goughary

Alex there is a tsb for the tab on the front where the bumper meets the fender from when the cars began to be offered with 17 inch wheels. You are to cut the tab at a 45 degree angle. Has that been done on yours? There is also a tsb for the 10mm steering stops for the same earlier cars. Do you know if they are installed on yours? That may solve your rub of not...

On the chain rattle, I had it a little. It became apparent last winter in the extreme cold. Turned out that first, the set screws in two of my chain ramps had backed out and the ramps were free to slide back and forth a bit on the shaft, and second, all four ramps were terribly worn. So those were replaced three weeks ago and all good now. Car runs better than it ever has. This can be done without dropping the motor, so not a terribly difficult DIY if you want to tackle it. But when you get in there, if your car is like mine, the can of worms can get difficult....the chain ramps were the easy part on mine, but then we changed the cam gears and redid the timing and while in there valve adjustment...
Good luck with it if you need to open it up.