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There are two types of bulbs used in the instruments. One is 1.5 watts and the other is 0.9. I bought some of each from Sunset Porsche. 964-641-920-00 0.9 watts 964-631-027-90 1.5 watts
Im replacing my rear shocks on my 1991 C2 Coupe. Going from the stock Boge to Bilstein HD with the stock springs.
What is the issue with lowering the new shocks to the lowest setting that the perches allow? Any big downside? Seems like its too easy to lower this car.
Thought I'd ask while im changing them out, thank you for an answer!
Im replacing my rear shocks on my 1991 C2 Coupe. Going from the stock Boge to Bilstein HD with the stock springs.
What is the issue with lowering the new shocks to the lowest setting that the perches allow? Any big downside? Seems like its too easy to lower this car.
Thought I'd ask while im changing them out, thank you for an answer!
No harm in lowering this way but understand that you will not get as low as you will with lowering springs.
Edit - I agree with Cobalt's answer below. While technically, you can lower the car a bit with the stock springs, it would be very much. If that is your goal, you should invest in some lowering springs.
Last edited by Rocket Rob; Dec 3, 2014 at 01:37 PM.
Bad idea to only switch out the backs if you are changing the shock to something dampened differently. Your car will be potentially dangerous to drive at speed and under braking. If you are switching the rears to HD's I highly recommend switching the fronts as well.
You will not be able to lower the front more than a fraction of an inch depending on the car and year. 89's have softer front springs which is even worse when mixing components. Stock springs lowered will bottom out the suspension depending on road conditions.
The HD's are designed to work with a stiffer spring than stock unless you have M030 package. If not the H&R greens are only slightly stiffer than the M030's but are progressive which offers a balance between comfort and performance. Cost of springs is nominal and when factoring in alignment and or installation costs if not doing a DIY you may find you will pay for this twice after you are not happy with its handling.
If your doing it yourself the rear tops are a royal PITA to change with the motor in the car. You don't want to do the job twice.
I wold do my research there are used sets coming up for sale all the time IIRC a set was for sale on Pelican or here yesterday someplace.
Safety is always a concern and a poor handling 911 is not something you want.
This is a true silly question, but for those who have two square holes in the front plate mounting area, what do you use to attach the bracket? Expandable rivets?
There should be some square nylon or plastic inserts that go in those square holes. You tread your self-tapping screws into them, the back expands out a bit, and they stay in place.
I bought mine with Bilstein HDs and stock springs and it's not pretty....basically you can't lower it more then 2 mm, it handles great in corners but it has the back to front boat effect going on. If you change the shocks then put a few more bucks and get H&R springs.
The trim piece around the door pocket (towards the front of the door) is bunged up in a couple spots..is that trim piece something I can get ahold of? It looks like it is a single piece that continues under the handle and around the door compartment as well but not sure.
What's the difference between sunroof and non sunroof?
Also, I have the opportunity to buy a Matter Alu bar. Any good?
Thanks
Are you asking about different roll bar styles? The roll bars for non-sunroof cars are taller. A sunroof bar will fit in both a sunroof and non-sunroof car. A non-sunroof bar will only fit in a non-sunroof car.
As for the brand and config of different bars, check the rules and regulations of your track/racing organization. They will have specifics on what they will accept.
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