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Old Mar 30, 2019 | 11:51 AM
  #1696  
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Originally Posted by S2K993
Nope. The 11mm nut on the hard line is fixed. It's just there so you can put a wrench on it to keep the hard line from twisting.
The s/s soft line fits "over" the hard line flared fitting, so the only turning has to be the soft line. I realize you don't want to overtighten a flared fitting but I can't seem to tighten them enough without twisting the soft line into a knot. Too little and they leak....ugh.
Mine were not that way,had to use a bit of kroil on the hardline nut to free it up.. it appears that the only thing you can do is take the calipers off, secure the line and reinstall the calipers
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Old Mar 30, 2019 | 03:09 PM
  #1697  
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little heat on that nut on the line and it will come right off. just went through this.
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Old Apr 22, 2019 | 12:57 PM
  #1698  
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Default Part number search on rennlistpedia


The part searched
Hi all,

I'm searching a way to replace the dual m4 nut plate holding the clips on a targa top there is 8 of them, 6 of them are rusted in had to drill the screws, 1 is a fabricated replacement so the 2 screws are bonded in an i only have 1 intact. ( Plus we had to cut the front pin and drill them to get them out.)

So my issue : either create a set or find the partnumber.

Obviously it does not live in pet.

Dimensions : 3x12x36mm the 2 holes center are 20mm appart. I'm not optimistic but i've been impressed more than once.

We'll find a solution in any case, the top needs to be on the car to go to le mans this summer. But if we can find the correct part and avoid having to drill all screws next time i'll be glad

Anyway thanks all.

Ps: current status of the car : paint done brake soft lines ( and bleeders being swapped by the shop) should be back for reassembly this week.

If you're going to le mans this year, please come take a coffee we'll be at maison blanche.

The instagram my girlfriend keep for the car : https://www.instagram.com/christine964targa/
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Old Apr 22, 2019 | 04:33 PM
  #1699  
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I went back in time in PET. I see the Targa roof parts assembly is in the 1978-1983 911 file. Its on 811-05 "Soft Top". Unfortunately, I'm not sure which part you need.
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Old Apr 22, 2019 | 05:11 PM
  #1700  
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Basically i'll try another picture but it's the double threaded plate thats on the other side of the alumin(i)um plates under the tension plate.

This plate is there to hold the 8 clips to keep the front and rear articulated arms locked to the reinforcement plates.

Ps: i tried the 964 and 70's 911 i'll check the 3.2 files
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Old May 3, 2019 | 01:23 AM
  #1701  
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Just a quick question to save me travelling to where my car is stored, could someone please confirm the measurements of the heater hose to air flap please.?

Is the right and left hand side one both the same length and diameter ?

And finally my car is a 1992 C 2 wide body as not sure if that makes any difference.

Thanks so much in advance

Andrew
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Old May 4, 2019 | 10:28 PM
  #1702  
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The heater hoses are different sizes one to the other. You can buy a better than oem hose at aircraft spruce.

My apologies- i don't remember the lengths - but if you look in the parts catalog- it's listed. The diff is like 10-20mm, so not much. I just don't Remember and I'm not at my computer...And the longer hose fits both sides, so i don't really know why they did that other than they are German. The hose is effectively an accordion.
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Old May 5, 2019 | 02:19 PM
  #1703  
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Thanks goughary
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Old May 6, 2019 | 12:41 AM
  #1704  
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New stupid question for finishing the frunk: what is the fuse box allen dimension? Can't seem to find it in PET and unabke to find one long enough in the ziplock bag labbeled firewall

I'm talking about the bolt that goes through the spacer.

Thanks guys
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Old May 6, 2019 | 04:43 PM
  #1705  
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The bolt is a M6x1.00mm x 25mm allen bolt.


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Old May 7, 2019 | 12:01 AM
  #1706  
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Thanks a lot rob
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Old May 18, 2019 | 09:08 PM
  #1707  
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I know my current engine didn't come with head gaskets... I recently picked up someone elses project parts - new LN cylinders, worked heads.. Before I bought these, I envisioned new cylinders with a groove in them but these are 100% flat. The heads do seem to interface into the cylinders but there is clearly a sliver of a gap. I only did this on the bench, so I'm not drawing them down onto the cylinders. Is this normal? During my build, can I expect that they will be drawn down flat with the nuts?

Thanks for having this thread - hopefully judge-free zone
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Old Jun 3, 2019 | 03:37 PM
  #1708  
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So I'm in the process of replacing my right side HVAC blower and everything I've read says it's easier to disconnect the fuel lines from the pump instead of the tank for tank removal (ahead of fuse panel and firewall), so that's what I'm working on right now. To drop the pump I've got what appears to be both the inlet and outlet side in the way. Uh, I don't know what my actual question is now, I guess I'd just like some moral support here. In screwing with it I also seem to have loosened up the banjo on the outlet because now I have a fuel leak. Aside from the intentional fuel leak I'm going to have in a few minutes that is...

Okay, seriously now, The opening for the pump is really small and I'd like to know what the factory procedure is for pulling it so I don't kink, bend, or pry something the wrong way in the process of doing this job. If someone that has access could post a scan of the relevant pages from the shop manual that'd be really appreciated.
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Old Jun 3, 2019 | 04:01 PM
  #1709  
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Hi forty2, I just replaced my right side blower motor and followed https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm./ No need to remove fuel lines. The 964 does not have a pollen filter and some of the bolt heads are not Phillips but other than that it was the same.

Good luck
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Old Jun 3, 2019 | 04:05 PM
  #1710  
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I'm so clearly the reason this thread exists...

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