When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Learning a lot from your rebuild thread, thanks for sharing the project! Any plans for gearbox? Has it been rebuilt?
Question for you or anyone reading on through bolts;
I will have mechanic chase down what I believe is my first real oil leak and it appears to be from near cylinder #1 or behind TC box. I cannot see from under the vehicle the origin. My question for you, if it turns out to be thru bolt, are they assessable with p/c in place? Can one remove and replace just o-rings then re-tighten, and on to another, one at a time as needed? I am trying to avoid the slippery slop with current mileage on car.... For that matter, if it's a cylinder head, can they be retorqued to spec?
Also, Did that version of yolk require flywheel off or just pressure plate be removed?
Learning a lot from your rebuild thread, thanks for sharing the project! Any plans for gearbox? Has it been rebuilt?
Question for you or anyone reading on through bolts;
I will have mechanic chase down what I believe is my first real oil leak and it appears to be from near cylinder #1 or behind TC box. I cannot see from under the vehicle the origin. My question for you, if it turns out to be thru bolt, are they assessable with p/c in place? Can one remove and replace just o-rings then re-tighten, and on to another, one at a time as needed? I am trying to avoid the slippery slop with current mileage on car.... For that matter, if it's a cylinder head, can they be retorqued to spec?
Also, Did that version of yolk require flywheel off or just pressure plate be removed?
Hi,
Gearbox was in great shape, replaced seals and filled it with new oil. I will keep it as is for the next couple of years.
In case of the through bolt I am sorry to tell you that this requires the p/c out = engine out.
If it's the cylinder head, same as above. You have to seal it with loctite, I doubt you will be able to just re-torque it to stop leaks.
But, it is not all bad yet. It can very well be 5 other things that leak underneath and many of them do not require engine removal.
Best if your mechanic removes the exhaust to get better visual. Alternatively, use an inspection camera to gain access without removing anything.
I would not recommend this yolk (cheap VW part), I wish I got the Porsche specific one. I had to balance the engine on blocks to swap the yolk from side to side to undo several of the engine tin parts. It also required everything off to mount it to the case.
Quick question: I've replaced pressure plate, throw-out bearing, flywheel bearing, clutch fork needle bearings, clutch slave cylinder and hose. Did a full bleed of course.
The clutch operate smoothly but it is very heavy. Is it normal?
Assuming that all other components are in good working condition, the force to depress clutch is dictated by pressure plate. All I was able to find was that this pressure plate has contact force rated at 7400 to 8200 N. Don't know how this translates to force to depress the clutch when operating hydraulic system.