robt964

Hi Spencer,

Thats interesting, so there are non valved quick release alternatives then. That would be fine as I want to be able to drain from here. I'll give THINK a call and find out more.

RicardoD

Did you break your oil lines yet in the rear wheel well? Wha is the inner diameter of the tube? When I had a mobile mechanic comes to my house he had a cork to plug up that hose immediately. I want to order a cork but not sure what size. I guess I can measure the OD and use that for sizing.

robt964

Hi Ricardo, yep the engine is all out and sitting on a pallet waiting for me to start work on it Saturday morning. I'll measure the pipe ID for you if you still need it. Use one of the more 'modern' corks rather than the traditional ones as it my drop bits. Hey, failing that how about using one of those 'fizz-keepers' you put in the top of a bottle and pull the level over to seal it up. Dunno if it'll fit but I'm gonna try it

RicardoD

I can get also get chemically resistant rubber "cork" of the right size to avoid getting cork bits into the engine.

STUARTQ

Rob, We use a company called Staubli for the type of cennector you are thinking of.

The only issue as already mentioned is if the connector would restrict oil flow.

From conversations I have had with them in the past, hey do have motorsport applications, so maybe they have a solution.

Here is a link to there website and the quick couplings.

http://www.staubli.com/en/connectors/quick-couplings/

An example here: http://www.staubli.com/en/connectors...gpl-full-flow/

robt964

Thanks Stuart, have to be careful with the temperature rating on those. I think I'm going to go with the simplest option of breaking the flexi joint at the mid point, have two female connectors swaged on then join them with a simple male-2-male coupling. This should give no resistance to the flow and mean I'll never have to touch the filter console and pipes in the wheel arch.

robt964

Of course, this only helpful if you enjoy removing engines for fun

pcarplayer

So you'd be needing one then Rob?

HiWind

nice Stu .. Staubli make the 997 cup car airjack wands

robt964

I dropped out the motor one evening during the week so made a start on the LWF swap on Saturday.



Still so clean under there



Pallet truck comes in very handy for shuffling the motor about.



Tranny / motor split



This clutch has done between 4-6k miles so will be kept.



Pressure plate removed to reveal the DMF.



Flywheel off. As mentioned before, the engine had a full rebuild by SC Malton less than a few K before I picked up the car. I don't need to replace any seals here as it's all been done and the motor is still bone dry.



The LWF fitted with new bolts.



The guide tube. This also need to be replaced as part of the swap as the LWF uses one of a different length.



Unfortunately play had to stop here as none of the parts I'd ordered had turned up in time for the weekend. To be continued.....

BLACK-BETTY

Hi Rob, just wanted to say thank you. It's so kind of you to take the time to photograph step by step and write up everything you do.

Your thread makes for great reading, inspiration and thus must be a great contribution to this place. Cheers fella,

robt964

Thanks Frank. I hope it gives others the confidence to work on their own cars too. I get so much enjoyment from tweaking these things

dave964diver

Good work Rob,

I'm sure you know but don't forget to replace the flywheel bolts (although I think they're a shorter variant any way) friction plate goes in the other way around from the stock one. It should say fly wheel side on it. Personally I married the transmission to the engine without tourquing the pressure plate its a lot easier by yourself. Tourque the pressure plate through the starter motor. Check your needle bearings on your clutch fork shaft ( cheap as chips and worth replacing. ( they are not identical) and the shaft seals need to be orientated correctly.

Looks good mate I'm keen to pick your brain on the ecu tuning as I'm going this route with the 964 when its back.

robt964

Hi Dave, yep new bolts are being used. It also appears that the entire clutch fork, spindle, seals and bearing assembly were replaced as part of the engine rebuild. To my eyes they look in top nick so no need to replace given the minimal miles covered since then. There's no play and they operate smoothly so I've just washed them down and repacked with molyb.

Captain Ahab Jr.

great stuff Rob and another thanks for posting everything in such detail from me