davidwilson11

very keen to follow this one as im gonna do exactly the same thing this winter. I might need to contact you for some info if that's cool with you. I will be doing as many seals as possible and maybe changing head studs as ive got a feeling one is gone.

STUARTQ

Rob,
if you need it, I can give you workshop space, but it's only available at the moment Monday to Friday's 8:30 to 5:30.
if that works for you let me know.

robt964

Thanks for the very kind offer Stuart, however as the car will be immobile or sans engine for upto 2 weeks from tonight (I may need clutch fork parts and other odds-n-sods) its best I leave it where it doesn't have to move.

If it was a simple in-and-out job then thats a different mater. That could be done in one eve if you went for it

davidwilson11

In one evening? thats not bad going mate. Is yours a C2 ?

robt964

Yep C2. It'd be a late evening but I recon a straight drop and refit is do-able Having no PS lines and pump to faff about with makes the whole thing easier and cleaner. And I know everything comes apart as it should do!

robt964

Good progress this eve. Got the rear up on axle stands, gear shift rod and drive shafts disconnected, starter power and ground straps off and all engine bay harness connectors, hoses and fuel lines off. All that remains is to drain the oil and drop the motor onto the pallet
Not bad for 2hrs work - all comes apart so easily this time round

RicardoD

Any tips on Clutch Slave cylinder removal, current stuck on the upper nut, but only gave it one try to so far before running out of time.

robt964

If you're doing this as part of an engine drop then lower the motor an inch or two to give you a bit more space. There is sufficient slack in the slave hose to do this but lower the engine carefully whilst keeping a close eye on it.

robt964

Lastnight I drained the oil from the tank, disconnected the two oil lines and lowered the engine onto the pallet (just like my avatar). It seems sooooo wrong to be grubbing about in wheel wells to disconnect oil lines that are on the dowstream side of the filter! Opening up the system in such a contaminate rich environment is begging for trouble. There must be a better way of oil line routing/filter location arrangement than this?. Another job for the back burner
What do Singer do? They've relocated the filter and console but I can't find any pictures that show where it's been moved to.

Anyway... ready to split the engine from the tranny now and take a look at what/if anything needs replacing as part of the LWF install. I'll take a load of pictures of this bit so that anybody wanting to do the same can get a feel for it.

robt964

Hmmm how about installing a dry-break in the short flexi section of the hard line that runs from beneath the engine up to the filter console?

jevvy964

Totally agree, I normally give that area a good jetwash/degrease before I crack any of the joints which seems to reduce the risk a bit but still seems marginal

Dry break sounds like a nice idea - have you seen any kit that would work here?

robt964

Yeah I gave the area a good wash but it still feels risky. The vertical orientation of the line reaching up to the bottom of the console doesn't help. As soon as you've loosened the joint, anything is free to drop into the line as you move it clear to cover it.. If it were horizontal, at least a flow of oil out of the pipe would prevent crap from potentially getting in. I'll try and ID a dry break that may fit the short flexi section then speak to the hydraulic shop I use. Thinking about it, a joint placed there doesn't especially need to be a dry break. Imagine how easy draining it off would be then Just lean under the rear bumper with a big pan and crack the joint. Then do the same for the oil tank. Would make changing filters far less messy too since the oil in the console could be drained off before removing the filter.

evanscott964

Rob
I know I'm teaching my granny to suck eggs! But did you know there is a 17mm head drain plug on the filter head for that job! i.e. stop the oil left in the filter flooding the chassis leg. It's in between the to oil lines in the wheel arch.
Simon.

robt964

Maybe I'm doing it wrong but that drain plug makes just as much mess. Once removed, you get a slow steady trickly of oil down the inside of the wheel arch, onto the chassis bumper support then onto the secondary muffler. Or is this just me?

spenny_b

Hey Rob, still enjoying reading the periodical updates, serving to spur me along with my (seemingly) never-ending project!

Re dry-breaks, I was up at Think the other week, coincidentally having exactly the same conversation with Tino (and bizarrely, found myself standing next to, and chatting with, David Piper!)

The trouble is likely to be the flow restriction with a coupling that's of the right size for the pipework we're using; we didn't dive too far into it, to be fair (as the extra expense is something I can quite easily do without), but there is going to be a difference in flow rates when you look at the flow path through the device, with the valving etc.

There are non-valved versions, i.e. just a quick release system, but that's not what I was looking for. I believe it's a Australian company that manufacture them, and they look very nicely made - and actually not stellar expensive - but I didn't want to risk the impact on oil flow without understanding more, or what other alternatives there are. In the end I used the K.I.S.S. principle and saved a load of £££'s.

HTH
Spencer