964 Refurb
#511
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hi pcarplayer,
Yep familiar with toreb's excellent work.
A snippet from his site regarding the user controls:
"Defrost and Foot well slider controls
Controls the opening and closing of the defrost and foot well flap servos."
How do the sliders relate to this operation? Does the top slider control the screen vents and the lower slider the footwells?
Yep familiar with toreb's excellent work.
A snippet from his site regarding the user controls:
"Defrost and Foot well slider controls
Controls the opening and closing of the defrost and foot well flap servos."
How do the sliders relate to this operation? Does the top slider control the screen vents and the lower slider the footwells?
#512
Hi pcarplayer,
Yep familiar with toreb's excellent work.
A snippet from his site regarding the user controls:
"Defrost and Foot well slider controls
Controls the opening and closing of the defrost and foot well flap servos."
How do the sliders relate to this operation? Does the top slider control the screen vents and the lower slider the footwells?
Yep familiar with toreb's excellent work.
A snippet from his site regarding the user controls:
"Defrost and Foot well slider controls
Controls the opening and closing of the defrost and foot well flap servos."
How do the sliders relate to this operation? Does the top slider control the screen vents and the lower slider the footwells?
#513
Three Wheelin'
Has anyone seen the thread by 9m on the green 993 track car. They removed the heating system and fitted in it's place a simple on / off blower. Only cold air though, no heat, plus and electric front screen.
#515
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Rigging up a controller for the oil cooler fan to replace the CCU function should be very easy beans. Likewise with the CCU -> ECU connection. This is a single wire used to indicate if 'heat' is on and used by the ECU to either cut/not cut fueling on overrun. To be honest I'd just tie this ECU wire to ground (cut fueling) as there arn't many places around here where the car would be coasting down hill for 15-20mins in sub sero temperatures
#516
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Having the car 4 wheel aligned tomorrow so I'll finally get to drive it properly afterwards. Get the kettle on Lemass I'll be popping in on my way back
I finished off the 'signal' wiring for power steering last night. This is the low level signal wire that triggers the unit on/off. Until now it had simply been rigged to the switched ignition side so that once the ignition was on, the pump would start. Now I've wired it in a similar fashion to the fuel pump, ie it is under control of the ECU and only switched on when the engine is turning. It's also nice that the powersteering pump controller has a delay built in so that when you trigger it to start it waits 2 seconds before doing so. This will avoid any additional current draw when the car is cranking/starting. I've installed the relay and wiring for the PS signal wire into one of the empty relay slots of the main frunk fuse box so it all looks neat and tidy
Took the car out for a slow 15min drive and I have to say the steering feels great. Not too much assistance, and not too little either. Happy with that.
Next thing to sort is the brake pedal feel. The car passed the MOT brake test just fine but in my mind it doesn't feel quite right. The pedal feels soft the first time it's pressed and lacks a good initial 'bite', but fine if pressed immedately after. It just doesn't give me a confident feeling if I had to make an emergency stop. I'll go round all 4 wheels again with the pressure bleed connected.
I finished off the 'signal' wiring for power steering last night. This is the low level signal wire that triggers the unit on/off. Until now it had simply been rigged to the switched ignition side so that once the ignition was on, the pump would start. Now I've wired it in a similar fashion to the fuel pump, ie it is under control of the ECU and only switched on when the engine is turning. It's also nice that the powersteering pump controller has a delay built in so that when you trigger it to start it waits 2 seconds before doing so. This will avoid any additional current draw when the car is cranking/starting. I've installed the relay and wiring for the PS signal wire into one of the empty relay slots of the main frunk fuse box so it all looks neat and tidy
Took the car out for a slow 15min drive and I have to say the steering feels great. Not too much assistance, and not too little either. Happy with that.
Next thing to sort is the brake pedal feel. The car passed the MOT brake test just fine but in my mind it doesn't feel quite right. The pedal feels soft the first time it's pressed and lacks a good initial 'bite', but fine if pressed immedately after. It just doesn't give me a confident feeling if I had to make an emergency stop. I'll go round all 4 wheels again with the pressure bleed connected.
#518
Instructor
Fantastic thread Rob! Sooo helpful. Your efforts and end result is an example to us all.
Not long had my car, a GR C2 manual coupe, and like you I had heater problems which I managed to sort out so I could use the car. Well to be exact 100 miles in 3 months lol!
I have been gradually building up a collection of parts for it. Coilovers, Polybushes, Braided lines etc etc and recently decided to make a start. Began with the rh front a month ago and still in the de-rusting and unseizing bolts etc stage! I am amazed how one job leads to another on these cars. It as though the car is dictating the order of repairs, and having no regard for our well thought out plans.
I honestly thought that it was just my car being a particularly rough example, but after having a good nose around on RL it seems to be fairly normal for these cars at this age. Or maybe just Guards Red ones lol!
All of my front suspension is pretty much in as poor condition as yours. As you said, a real fight to get it apart. My rack is also leaking, so I bought a seal kit, and my oil pipes were leaking too. So these extra jobs have to be done whilst accessible. And so the list gets longer and the wallet gets lighter!!
Problem now is you have set the bar so high goddmit!
This is going top be a rolling project as I do not get much spare time and I really, really want to be able to use the car as much as possible. Plan is get the mechanical's sorted, and worry about the bodywork / colour change next year. I will be painting my arches and underside as I go in preparation though.
Between you and Lemass I have been totally inspired. Well done again, fantastic job!!
Not long had my car, a GR C2 manual coupe, and like you I had heater problems which I managed to sort out so I could use the car. Well to be exact 100 miles in 3 months lol!
I have been gradually building up a collection of parts for it. Coilovers, Polybushes, Braided lines etc etc and recently decided to make a start. Began with the rh front a month ago and still in the de-rusting and unseizing bolts etc stage! I am amazed how one job leads to another on these cars. It as though the car is dictating the order of repairs, and having no regard for our well thought out plans.
I honestly thought that it was just my car being a particularly rough example, but after having a good nose around on RL it seems to be fairly normal for these cars at this age. Or maybe just Guards Red ones lol!
All of my front suspension is pretty much in as poor condition as yours. As you said, a real fight to get it apart. My rack is also leaking, so I bought a seal kit, and my oil pipes were leaking too. So these extra jobs have to be done whilst accessible. And so the list gets longer and the wallet gets lighter!!
Problem now is you have set the bar so high goddmit!
This is going top be a rolling project as I do not get much spare time and I really, really want to be able to use the car as much as possible. Plan is get the mechanical's sorted, and worry about the bodywork / colour change next year. I will be painting my arches and underside as I go in preparation though.
Between you and Lemass I have been totally inspired. Well done again, fantastic job!!
Last edited by backitoff; 04-10-2014 at 12:24 PM.
#519
Rigging up a controller for the oil cooler fan to replace the CCU function should be very easy beans. Likewise with the CCU -> ECU connection. This is a single wire used to indicate if 'heat' is on and used by the ECU to either cut/not cut fueling on overrun. To be honest I'd just tie this ECU wire to ground (cut fueling) as there arn't many places around here where the car would be coasting down hill for 15-20mins in sub sero temperatures
Interesting what you say about the DME coasting shutoff. To be honest I havn't really spent the time thinking about a workaround. I'd be really keen to see how you get on. Mostly it will depend on whether you want heat or not
Last edited by pcarplayer; 04-10-2014 at 07:42 PM.
#520
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Had the geo and ride heights done on the car yesterday. It's been set to smidge above RS. So today I finally got to drive it.... PROPERLY
Absolutely loving it Next step is to put a few hundred miles on it to prove things before putting it on a track to see how it handles. Hope to try one of those driver training days, ideally with someone whos familiar with 911s as until now all my track work has been front engine with rear drive.
Still lots of little odd jobs to finish off tho. I'll try and chip through a few more of those tomorrow. I'll get some decent piccies too.
Absolutely loving it Next step is to put a few hundred miles on it to prove things before putting it on a track to see how it handles. Hope to try one of those driver training days, ideally with someone whos familiar with 911s as until now all my track work has been front engine with rear drive.
Still lots of little odd jobs to finish off tho. I'll try and chip through a few more of those tomorrow. I'll get some decent piccies too.
#521
Burning Brakes
Excellent.
Could recommend http://www.porsche.com/silverstone/en/experience/ where they do a half or full day in your own car at the centre.
Alternatively contact an expert like Mike Wilds to provide one on one tuition at the track of your choice. Mike gave me tuition at Goodwood last year and I shared the cost with a mate. It was well worth it.
http://www.mikewilds.com
Could recommend http://www.porsche.com/silverstone/en/experience/ where they do a half or full day in your own car at the centre.
Alternatively contact an expert like Mike Wilds to provide one on one tuition at the track of your choice. Mike gave me tuition at Goodwood last year and I shared the cost with a mate. It was well worth it.
http://www.mikewilds.com
#522
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Been a while but things are still ticking along. I've sorted a little more of the interior stuff
I cut a carbon plate the same shape as the metal base and put a hole through for the rubber gator to come through. After etching the metal, I sprayed the both parts in the same manner I did the 4-way switch panel. The top edge of the metal base was then finished of with rubber U channel around it. 4 anodized ally bolts hold it down.
I like my interiors really clean and simple. Almost utilitarian in look. Mounted the kill switch beneath the ash tray.
Made up a little aluminium bracket to hold it.
Now I went round and round with different ideas about how to finish the hand brake and still allow easy access to the mech for adjustment. In the end simplicity ruled again. I cut and shaped the part from a piece of aluminium sheet. I then used this as a former to put a few layers of carbon fiber over the top. As this was laid over the top it would leave a nice textured finish rather than the usual smooth. Once dry, crack the aluminium off the back and shape the part, and again give it a coat of spray along with the base plate of the hand brake itself.
The cover was then finished off with more rubber u channel around it's perimeter (ran out for the center hole) and fastened down with two dome head anodized bolts.
The last major interior job to do will be the roof lining. I've been putting that off as without a doubt thats gonna be tricky
All shiny after its first wash
I cut a carbon plate the same shape as the metal base and put a hole through for the rubber gator to come through. After etching the metal, I sprayed the both parts in the same manner I did the 4-way switch panel. The top edge of the metal base was then finished of with rubber U channel around it. 4 anodized ally bolts hold it down.
I like my interiors really clean and simple. Almost utilitarian in look. Mounted the kill switch beneath the ash tray.
Made up a little aluminium bracket to hold it.
Now I went round and round with different ideas about how to finish the hand brake and still allow easy access to the mech for adjustment. In the end simplicity ruled again. I cut and shaped the part from a piece of aluminium sheet. I then used this as a former to put a few layers of carbon fiber over the top. As this was laid over the top it would leave a nice textured finish rather than the usual smooth. Once dry, crack the aluminium off the back and shape the part, and again give it a coat of spray along with the base plate of the hand brake itself.
The cover was then finished off with more rubber u channel around it's perimeter (ran out for the center hole) and fastened down with two dome head anodized bolts.
The last major interior job to do will be the roof lining. I've been putting that off as without a doubt thats gonna be tricky
All shiny after its first wash
#523
Racer
That is sweet!
Absolutely love this car, interior is class.
Great Job Rob!
How many hours do you think you have put in to get this far?
Does the missus think you've left her?
It's been EPIC!
Superb!
Absolutely love this car, interior is class.
Great Job Rob!
How many hours do you think you have put in to get this far?
Does the missus think you've left her?
It's been EPIC!
Superb!