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Old 10-13-2012, 09:26 PM
  #31  
swesna
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Originally Posted by PChar
Congrats on your new purchase. I was also lurking at that car as well (I am partial to blue),... I even made a decent offer to this guy and he refused. I wanted another one for full track dedicated car.

Let us know the outcome,.. and post plenty of pictures,..
Thanks. I did the first wash today and started using the DA to see how the driver's quarter would clean up with some Megs 105 and D300. Now I see the true color of the car at least on that quarter. Overall the body is in very good shape and the rust by the bottom corners of the windshield is not as bad as I thought it was originally.

Also, the front brake rotors and brakes probably have been done within the last few thousand miles...

more to come and some pics tomorrow.
Old 10-13-2012, 09:41 PM
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I am going to remove the carrera 2 emblem off the engine hood tomorrow as well as it is faded and is in the way of detailing that area.
Old 10-14-2012, 08:07 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by swesna
I am going to remove the carrera 2 emblem off the engine hood tomorrow as well as it is faded and is in the way of detailing that area.
Not so sure that's a good idea... I couldn't get it to look good after mine came/fell off (I have the 911 with the line underneath as it is an Anniversary edition). So it went back on with new double sided tape in the same position.

Perhaps your paint is not as faded as mine here in the desert.
Old 10-14-2012, 10:44 AM
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i am taking off the emblem because it is faded. also, the engine hood is dull and needs to be compounded. i am not going to be trying to reinstall the emblem that i took off. i prefer to go emblem delete...easy to do with some dental floss.
Old 10-14-2012, 07:23 PM
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Here are some exterior shots of the car: at this point I have washed the car twice, removed the rear "carrara 2" emblem, and compounded the rear quarters and engine hood.

My goal is to remove all signs of oxidation and micro marring from the paint surface. Then after that polish and seal the car.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6416866...7631770678346/
Old 10-21-2012, 09:53 AM
  #36  
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OK...I decided to share my cost information regarding my recent purchase:

10,500 car -- 10/13/2012
300 PPI
32 Rocker Panel Clips (Pelican Parts) -- 10/16/2012)
640 L/R Tail lights/Clear Turn Signal Set (Suncoast Parts) -- 10/18/2012
70 Secondary Muffler By-Pass (eBay) -- 10/20/2012
41 Front Euro Bumper Reflector (eBay) -- 10/20/2012

Total 11,583

Will post up some more pictures of the car today. At this point I am thinking my purchase price was very fair as the car is cleaning up very well. I have performed paint correction on the rear end of the car and it came out very good. I might stop working on the paint correction at this point as the rear end was in the worse shape and start to focus on cleaning up the engine and working on resolving the oil leaks.

In order to make the paint correction easier I removed the rocker panel (side skirts) and all of the rear tail lights. This will be shown in the pictures that I post up later.

Prior to taking the pics I will seal the paint as it is good enough for now...will clean up some of the rear areas a little more in the Spring.

Then after I take the pics I will remove the rear bumper in order to make working on the engine easier.

Steve
Old 10-21-2012, 02:04 PM
  #37  
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Here are some pictures of the rear of the car after paint correction, at this time the rear bumper, rear quarters, and engine lid have been paint corrected and sealed. I have paint corrected up to the middle of the doors right below the 3/4 window as well.

Next step is to take the rear bumper off the car and start investigating the oil leaks.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6416866...7631770678346/

Thanks,
Steve

Last edited by swesna; 10-21-2012 at 05:37 PM.
Old 10-21-2012, 02:18 PM
  #38  
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Wow, you're really jumping into things right off the bat!

That blue color is so pretty, putting in all that detail work really shows on a color like that. I haven't done more than wash my poor GPW car in the 18mo i've had it, lol.
Old 10-22-2012, 08:29 AM
  #39  
swesna
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Thanks. Next steps either today or tomorrow will be to remove the rear bumper and the passenger seat. I want to remove the rear bumper to get better visibility to the engine. The rear of the car had the most oxidation on the paint especially between the spoiler and the window. I wore through the clear coat/paint in a few spots in that area but everything else came out really good. Overall it is much better than what i started with.
Old 10-23-2012, 09:09 PM
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OK...started to remove my rear bumper and jacked up the car in order to make it easier.

At this point I have all of the screws removed on the drivers side section, the ones in the middle section and started the passenger screws.

I am thinking based on what I read on the forum that once I remove the remaining passenger side screws. I will then need to remove the bolts that hold the bumper shocks in place.

Can you please confirm if the one showing the bumper shocks are the correct bolts that need to be removed?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6416866...in/photostream

Also, can you give me an idea of what could be leaking at the one location that I took a picture of where it was dripping pretty badly when I first jacked the car up.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6416866...n/photostream/

I did manage to take the rear exhaust tip off the car and I think I only have one more bolt to remove the secondary muffler. I will eventually put it back on but wanted to take it off to clean it and to test out my secondary by-pass that I got off eBay which I received today. Not sure if I am going to keep this on since it is loud and most recommend removing the primary muffler and replacing with a primary by-pass.

I am mainly taking the rear bumper off and the secondary muffler to give me more viability and room to work on attacking the oil leaks. Trying to fix whatever oil leaks I can with the engine in the car. If it turns out that some of the areas that are bad need to have the engine removed then I will proceed to remove the engine.

Thanks in advance,
Steve
Old 10-23-2012, 09:43 PM
  #41  
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You don't have to remove the impact shocks. You don't even have to remove the impact beam. You can just take the rear bumper skin off.

Here's the DIY that shows you how to do it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...mper-face.html

After that, removing the beam is pretty easy after that, just two big allen bolts. The shocks stay in place.

I'm not sure how far/deep you want to take this, but here's my thread where I tore apart the whole rear of the car.

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...g-project.html
Old 10-23-2012, 09:49 PM
  #42  
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Thanks Vandit. I appreciate your response.
Old 10-23-2012, 09:57 PM
  #43  
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Vandit,

I like your thread...very nice...I think I will get some good ideas on how to proceed based on it.

Thanks again,
Steve
Old 10-23-2012, 11:37 PM
  #44  
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OK..rear bumper skin is off...

but I did tear four little areas on the mid section of the bumper skin where it seems to be riveted.

exactly the same thing the guy did in this link:

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...mper-face.html

I think one guy posted the correct way...

"You can actually just remove the two long bolts holding the whole assembly including the alloy beam as one piece. I found it a bit easier that way."

I dont think this is a big deal either way.

The only thing I need to do it remove the license plate harness through the grommet. Will do that in the morning.

Then remove the secondary muffle, the rear bumper bar and do some engine degreasing prior to repairing some of the engine leaks.

The power washer will be out tomorrow again...

Thanks again,
Steve
Old 10-24-2012, 12:09 AM
  #45  
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Sorry about the center section. I didn't encounter that, but I don't think it was the first time my rear bumper had been off the car.

On the license plate light wiring, I disconnected them at the light assemblies instead of messing with the plugs and grommets behind the taillight buckets.


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