crying here... not a good phone call
05-28-2012, 11:32 AM
#122
Burning Brakes
With the key switched to ON, put one probe of the meter to the +ve low tension post on the left (where that green wire is attached) and the other to ground.
Should read 12V...
05-28-2012, 12:21 PM
#123
Race Car
Thread Starter
did that... read zero.... I appreciate all the idea in this thread, but this is not the first time I've put all my troubleshooting up. Rebuild seems to have drawn attention
05-28-2012, 07:01 PM
#124
Burning Brakes
Could be that the coil is only powered up when the engine is running. Try the same test again, with someone cranking the motor on the starter.
The coils would have to be getting juice on the starter. With old (carbed) cars that I'm more used to, the coil is powered up based on key position, but I guess it's probable that these new fangled things are smarter than that
The coils would have to be getting juice on the starter. With old (carbed) cars that I'm more used to, the coil is powered up based on key position, but I guess it's probable that these new fangled things are smarter than that
05-28-2012, 07:49 PM
#127
Race Car
Thread Starter
I hope you can all see my frustration... all the suggestions are things I've tried. the last one before it went to the shop was the new flywheel sensor, but I didn't realize it had to be shimmed.
05-28-2012, 08:06 PM
#128
Burning Brakes
When I had that problem with juice to the coil, what I did to diagnose it was I hardwired the coil low tension +ve direct to battery. When it fired up and idled just fine, that was the sign that the regular power supply to coil was toast somehow.
Mind you, this was on a front-engined car, where the coil was right next to the battery, and a lot easier than in a 911
Mind you, this was on a front-engined car, where the coil was right next to the battery, and a lot easier than in a 911
05-29-2012, 01:10 PM
#130
Burning Brakes
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Rather than try to figure out what you've done by going through all the scattered threads, can you list everything you've done in one/this thread? Do you measure 12 volts at the coil lead when its' disconnected?
05-29-2012, 03:09 PM
#131
Race Car
Thread Starter
I can't find the other thread easily enough, so here goes
1. Spark test- tested with 2 sets of coils, and with both I got a tellow spark, not a blue one. Tested with a meter at the coil, while cranking to start the motor
2. Swapped fuel pump- get same result with both. I can smell fuel at the exhaust when trying to crank, also
3. DME- swapped with 2 spares I have, also used DME relay jumper. I can hear the pump running with the jumper
4. Fuel release nut on the fuel rail- opened up and I do in fact have fuel in the lines all the way to the injectors.
5. Bought and installed a new 996 style flywheel sensor. I did not shim it, so that might be step 1. Had the wrong pins for the connector, so those were just loosely connected to the plug on the sensor side, not the wire harness side.
6. Car will run on starting fluid, but I only kept fluid in for a few seconds, just to verify some degree of spark
7. No apparent codes using scantool, and the alarm system appears to be normal also.
8. Chased down a vaccum line off the Air flow, and connected that.
1. Spark test- tested with 2 sets of coils, and with both I got a tellow spark, not a blue one. Tested with a meter at the coil, while cranking to start the motor
2. Swapped fuel pump- get same result with both. I can smell fuel at the exhaust when trying to crank, also
3. DME- swapped with 2 spares I have, also used DME relay jumper. I can hear the pump running with the jumper
4. Fuel release nut on the fuel rail- opened up and I do in fact have fuel in the lines all the way to the injectors.
5. Bought and installed a new 996 style flywheel sensor. I did not shim it, so that might be step 1. Had the wrong pins for the connector, so those were just loosely connected to the plug on the sensor side, not the wire harness side.
6. Car will run on starting fluid, but I only kept fluid in for a few seconds, just to verify some degree of spark
7. No apparent codes using scantool, and the alarm system appears to be normal also.
8. Chased down a vaccum line off the Air flow, and connected that.
Last edited by hawk911; 05-29-2012 at 03:28 PM.
05-29-2012, 04:31 PM
#132
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05-29-2012, 07:41 PM
#134
Burning Brakes
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In order to avoid repetition can you provide details (i.e. the more details the better including what you seen, heard, smelt taste (well maybe not taste) but you get the idea) of the tests performed as well as results/observations? Example- "Tested with a meter at the coil, while cranking to start the motor
" - Where did you connect the meter leads? What was the voltage reading? Was the meter set on AC or DC etc.? When do you get the car back?
" - Where did you connect the meter leads? What was the voltage reading? Was the meter set on AC or DC etc.? When do you get the car back?
05-29-2012, 09:34 PM
#135
Race Car
Thread Starter
I connected the leads at the coil terminals on top of the coils. Was on DC setting, at 20V. I could measure battery volts with the same setting and get 12-13volts. I don't remember specifically what I got. I'm using a GB instruments- GDT-11 model multimeter.
When I try starting the car, I hear the normal clicks in the front of the car, and in the rear. I hear a click form the MAF unit sensor. I smell fuel from the exhaust when I try cranking. It turns over, so i know the starter is engaging. If I pull a plug, I can see spark- again a yellow color, not blue.
When I try starting the car, I hear the normal clicks in the front of the car, and in the rear. I hear a click form the MAF unit sensor. I smell fuel from the exhaust when I try cranking. It turns over, so i know the starter is engaging. If I pull a plug, I can see spark- again a yellow color, not blue.