Polarporsche

Wow Marc, serious winter project you have going there. Hopefully your ready to roll come spring.

We had a blast at VIR & Road Atlanta, very nice tracks.

Marc Shaw

Hey Russ, I had heard from Felix that you guys had a great time - sorry I missed it.

I hope to be ready for a winter trip in Feb or March.....

Marc

Marc Shaw

The rust perforation on the right rocker panel is all fixed - done in 2 days by a local body shop. They did a good job - I had told them there was no need to make it cosmetically perfect as the area is covered the plastic rocker panel but I did not want the rust to return! The body shop guy said he found a little Bondo in the area so it looks like the PO had fudged a previous rust repair - I think it is done right this time (and for $925, it better be! ).







I also got some surface spots touched up under the fenders, etc. with POR-15. I know that there are those here that doubt POR-15 but I painted the oil level sender cover on the back of the oil tank with the stuff about 6 years ago and it is still rust-free!

Marc

PChar

Marc, you are very thorough. I don’t think I could even dare attempting half of these DIY jobs.

This is great read. Good luck with the whole process, not that you need any, it really looks like you know what your doing,…

Marc Shaw

Thanks for the encouragement - and no, I don't know what I am doing but I figure there is nothing I can't screw up that my friends on RL can't help me fix.

I got the second coat of primer on most spots today and then turned to replacing the front differential mount.




Here is the front mount looking forwards (just behind the power steering rack).




Support the front differential with a handy bottle jack (and pad).




Remove the 2 smaller bolts and larger central bolt then ease the rubber and metal mount out with the larger metal plate below and square washer.




Here are the old pieces out.




Old rubber mount - like the rear: tired but not cracked.




...and here is the new shiny and clean one.




Bolt in all the new pieces (using anti-sieze copper paste) and torque the larger M12 bolt to 63 ft-lbs and the smaller M8 bolts to 17 ft-lbs.


Parts used:

Rubber mount: 964.375.053.01
Large metal brace: 964.375.183.01
Square washer: 999.0256.215.02
M8x45 (8.8) bolts: 900.074.134.02 x 2
M12x75 (8.8) bolts: N.010.183.3


Marc

FeralComprehension

Was there a discernible issue, or was this just PM?

Marc Shaw

Nope - just pm as it was a tired bit of 20 year old rubber.

I'll see once I start driving again if there is any difference but I doubt I'll be able to tell with so may bits being replaced.

Marc

Marc Shaw

All this Christmas stuff is slowing down progress but I got a bit done in the last few weeks...




I got the floorboard from under the driver's seat (that the DME bolts to) powder coated as it had a little surface rust.






I was a little worried about how close this oil line was to a bolt coming through from above so I trimmed the bolt with a Dremel, put an acorn nut on it, and covered the oil line with abrasion resistant Nomex covering from here.


I also got the central transmission cover and fuel pump cover powder coated (black) but sorry, no pictures.

Finally, I removed the headlights, cleaned up the rear of the headlights and the buckets and installed new H4 gaskets, etc.

I am waiting on custom brake lines from Pegasus and some parts from Vertex before I can continue with the oil cooler etc. but these is still more I can do in the mean-time.

Marc

RicardoD

Couple of things I noticed Marc
- you seem to have a well lit garage, I need to improve my lighting once my car is back of the lift
- now that I have a lift, more than once I need some kind of medium height jack stand to help hold things up underneath, the cart plus bottle jack is a good idea or I was looking at this at Amazon: medium height jack stand but not sure it has the range I need but I guess that is what blocks of wood are for

All the best,
Ricardo

B. Elliott

Just finished reading through. Damn good thread Marc. I really admire the cleanliness of your underbody, especially the transmission and engine. Opposed to mine, it actually looks aluminum!

mdistel

Awesome job and +1 on Por 15, I've been using it for years and the fixes have always survived salty winters.

Marc Shaw

Thanks - unfortunately, the only reason the engine and tranny are so clean is because they have both been rebuilt recently.

Marc

Marc Shaw

I use the bottle jack and cart or just a 2 x 6 of wood across the lift and the bottle jack (ie. for rear tranny mount replacement) and it works quite well.

Yes, light makes a huge difference. I have 8 sets of 6-bulb T5 HO lights - it is very bright with almost no shadows - my wife jokes you could land an aircraft back in my garage.

I posted some details about my workshop here.

Marc

Marc Shaw

I spent a few hours today making a mess of my interior - well, actually I took the passenger seat out so I could remove half the DAS roll-bar.

This let me remove the rear deck and speakers (I have not had a stereo in years) as well as strip out all the sound insulation back there.

Take a guess what it weighed --- no, go on -- try to guess...

How about 21 lbs! Just for the sound insulation. The deck/speakers was another 11 1/2 lbs.

So I managed to remove another 32 lbs from my car today.





Rear deck and Infinity Reference speakers I put in a few years ago.




Here is one of the two bags of sound insulation I removed.






Yeah, so it is a bit of a mess right now!




Even the outside looks a little rough.

Marc

RicardoD

Marc,

Still want those Infinity speakers? I also need one of those rounded rectangular covers for the child safety latches.