Aussie 964C2 Maintenance Diary (pic heavy!)
#258
Rennlist Member
An absolutely great thread! Love the photo documentation of the work you have done, as well as the videos showing what the car (and you) have on the track!
I will be watching this thread! Looking forward to more pictures and DIY!
I will be watching this thread! Looking forward to more pictures and DIY!
#259
911/993 shifter bushings
I am working on the same thing my '97 993 cabriolet conversion (97 all steel and interior on a 81 chassis) and I have neither the tunnel panel (964) or a panel hole large enough in the hump (cabriolet) to access the linkage. I really dont want to cut anything, but it needs it due to the sloppy shifting.... Ideas?
#260
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So you've got an old-style 81 gear linkage? I do believe those are quite different to the 964 G50 style (IIRC they are a little simpler with fewer parts).
#262
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
A small update follows
A few weeks ago, a kind samaritan tapped me on the shoulder at work, and informed me that he noticed that one of my brake lights was out. I thanked the kind fellow, replaced the offending bulb and all was well. But then yesterday he taps me on the shoulder and informs me that my brake lights are cyclopean yet again. The replacement bulb lasted all of a couple of weeks.
Now, when bulbs blow constantly, it's usually a sign of a bad connection. Either somewhere along the hotside, or at the end of the pipeline, where the earth point is no good. An interesting clue was that when I turned on the headlights, both brake lights came on just fine. But when I depressed the pedal, only one sprang to life.
The brake bulb is a dual filament, offset pin bulb, which means that it's two bulbs in one and does double duty for both the headlight-mode and the brake-mode.
Both modes share a common earth, so a bad ground is probably not the culprit. So off comes the tail light assembly...you just undo the single screw, and it unhooks and comes out easily.
The plug terminals look just fine and dandy, so that's not it...
But interestingly, all of the wiring in the tail light goes into a plug, but instead of a multipin, all of the wires connect to it via conventional spade terminals. And the red wire that lights up for the brake was a bit loose. So I crimped the female spade terminal slightly with pliers and it slotted in much more tightly. It's probably the loose terminal that's causing a bad/high-resistance connection.
A new bulb screws in place, and it's all ready to go bach together.
It's all working again, shall we take bets as for how long?
A few weeks ago, a kind samaritan tapped me on the shoulder at work, and informed me that he noticed that one of my brake lights was out. I thanked the kind fellow, replaced the offending bulb and all was well. But then yesterday he taps me on the shoulder and informs me that my brake lights are cyclopean yet again. The replacement bulb lasted all of a couple of weeks.
Now, when bulbs blow constantly, it's usually a sign of a bad connection. Either somewhere along the hotside, or at the end of the pipeline, where the earth point is no good. An interesting clue was that when I turned on the headlights, both brake lights came on just fine. But when I depressed the pedal, only one sprang to life.
The brake bulb is a dual filament, offset pin bulb, which means that it's two bulbs in one and does double duty for both the headlight-mode and the brake-mode.
Both modes share a common earth, so a bad ground is probably not the culprit. So off comes the tail light assembly...you just undo the single screw, and it unhooks and comes out easily.
The plug terminals look just fine and dandy, so that's not it...
But interestingly, all of the wiring in the tail light goes into a plug, but instead of a multipin, all of the wires connect to it via conventional spade terminals. And the red wire that lights up for the brake was a bit loose. So I crimped the female spade terminal slightly with pliers and it slotted in much more tightly. It's probably the loose terminal that's causing a bad/high-resistance connection.
A new bulb screws in place, and it's all ready to go bach together.
It's all working again, shall we take bets as for how long?
#263
Nordschleife Master
Nice.
I think my car suffered from a similar problem on the exhaust outlet side because someone had basically spliced the harness on the car and spliced the harness on the taillight and wired them up directly (so basically the taillight assembly could not be unplugged and removed because of this one wire going around the plug). I had picked up a spare taillight harness to do a 5 brake light mod, so I swapped out that harness for the one that was already on the car and did away w/ that wire workaround. Worked fine. I still need to do my brake light mod.
I think my car suffered from a similar problem on the exhaust outlet side because someone had basically spliced the harness on the car and spliced the harness on the taillight and wired them up directly (so basically the taillight assembly could not be unplugged and removed because of this one wire going around the plug). I had picked up a spare taillight harness to do a 5 brake light mod, so I swapped out that harness for the one that was already on the car and did away w/ that wire workaround. Worked fine. I still need to do my brake light mod.
#264
in future years, wouldn't it easier for everyone to find your great work if it was split into separate threads with some good keyword titles? everything buried in one thread will be difficult.
#267
#268
#269
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
A fellow Rennlister put this up for sale, and of course I have to have it It's the "Carrera RS Service Information Technik" which is the book by the Porsche service division, made available to dealers who need to look after a 964 Carrera RS.
It's chock full of interesting info on the RS, but mind you, nothing that can't be found by using the search function...but for those of you who might not already be RS-Geeks, here goes
The RS had 10hp more than the regular 964 Carrera...
...which came from more careful parts-matching on the pistons and barrells
...lightened flywheel, which I think is 10kg, so it's not particularly light, it's just that the regular dual-mass flywheel is really very heavy
The main power-adder is the RS ECU, which adds more timing but is basically the same. The plug is different, so an RS ecu can't plug into a regular 964, but given that it wind up the timing with no fuelling changes, it's not a huge advance. Boom-tish.
The RS also had the LSD from the Turbo, which is the opposite of how you'd think it'd be set up. It's relatively soft on accel (20%) but very aggressive on decel (100%).
Even the RS trans is different
With a taller first and second gear
Different steel synchros for faster shifting
And a short-shift kit
But it's the suspension where it gets interesting
The shocks all are pillow-ball mounted, and in the bottom pic you can see that it has a hood prop rod (which just seats in the allen bolt for the strut!) instead of bonnet gas struts
Front and rear swaybars are adjustable too
Now this is interesting..the rear semi trailing arms are different, for more negative camber adjustment, and the bushes have some metal rings in them to reduce compliance and toe-control.
The rest of the book is full of interesting stuff, like how the RS Basic doesn't have underseal on the body, and so the usual corrosion warranty doesn't apply!
And things like alighment settings, trim differences etc.
I won't scan the *whole* book right now, but I'm sure you'll see it all eventually as we continue to RS-ify my 964
It's chock full of interesting info on the RS, but mind you, nothing that can't be found by using the search function...but for those of you who might not already be RS-Geeks, here goes
The RS had 10hp more than the regular 964 Carrera...
...which came from more careful parts-matching on the pistons and barrells
...lightened flywheel, which I think is 10kg, so it's not particularly light, it's just that the regular dual-mass flywheel is really very heavy
The main power-adder is the RS ECU, which adds more timing but is basically the same. The plug is different, so an RS ecu can't plug into a regular 964, but given that it wind up the timing with no fuelling changes, it's not a huge advance. Boom-tish.
The RS also had the LSD from the Turbo, which is the opposite of how you'd think it'd be set up. It's relatively soft on accel (20%) but very aggressive on decel (100%).
Even the RS trans is different
With a taller first and second gear
Different steel synchros for faster shifting
And a short-shift kit
But it's the suspension where it gets interesting
The shocks all are pillow-ball mounted, and in the bottom pic you can see that it has a hood prop rod (which just seats in the allen bolt for the strut!) instead of bonnet gas struts
Front and rear swaybars are adjustable too
Now this is interesting..the rear semi trailing arms are different, for more negative camber adjustment, and the bushes have some metal rings in them to reduce compliance and toe-control.
The rest of the book is full of interesting stuff, like how the RS Basic doesn't have underseal on the body, and so the usual corrosion warranty doesn't apply!
And things like alighment settings, trim differences etc.
I won't scan the *whole* book right now, but I'm sure you'll see it all eventually as we continue to RS-ify my 964
#270
Rennlist Member
Thanks for sharing! I love reading about all the little detail differences.
I had thought the LSD was 40/40 like on my '90? I knew there was a change at some point, but thought 20/100 was for the 3.6 Turbo and the 993RS.
I had thought the LSD was 40/40 like on my '90? I knew there was a change at some point, but thought 20/100 was for the 3.6 Turbo and the 993RS.