chancecasey

On the bumper clearance thing, I used the technique of putting a 6x6 board across the tranny mount to jack really high, did the same with the front using a board across something (the anti-roll bar mounts?) With one jack I lower the engine completely, then with a 2nd jack, I let the front of the car all the way down so it's severly tilted forward (mind your brake fluid reservoir). Whole engine comes out fine - but you need "tall" jack / jackstands. How tall I'm not sure - I can measure how high I have them later.

Getting that intake manifold back on can be tricky - routing all the lines, making sure the rubber seals are fitted just right around the manifolds. Easier to assemble it without being under the car if you can swing it.

KirkF

Anthony,
The crank measured up exactly on standard spec for all the journals. All I did was have it micropolished.
I didn't bother doing measurements on the rods or the old pistons/cylinders because I intended on sending the rods in and the pistons/cylinders were being replaced with the newer style.

All of the old bearings were in good shape.

As for the 3.8 upgrade, I looked at the amount of $$ and then I choked up a hairball, and decided that given all the other expenses (clutch etc) I would be rebuilding the motor back to stock. I figured it would be better to build a tight 3.6, and then see if I could sneak in a supercharger later on. I think its better HP per $$

Kirk

KirkF

When I dropped the engine, I just jacked up the car high and used a set of tall jackstands I had. However for the installation I am going to remove the rear bumper. I have to look at whether something is not straight around the bumper area anyways, so Im just going to leave it off until the engine is in.

Kirk

brookewebb

Kirk,
I presume being from the UK that the bottle of Miller Draft is lubricant..!

KirkF

What type of rod bolts did you use chance?
If you have to order another bottom end gasket kit, I was pretty happy with the wrightwood racing one that I got from EBS. Lots of green viton o-rings.

I forgot to ask you if you used the lock tabs on your oil pump nuts or not? I didnt. I looked at the parts manual and it only showed the nut and washer, so thats all I used.

Kirk

Eric Kessel

Kirk,
I thought the shop manual mentioned using locktite on the oil pump nuts. I didn't have the lock tabs when I took pump out either. Sounds like you are making good progress! A quick note, when I was doing my clutch a few years ago, the hardest bolt to get loose was one of the two large allen heads that hold the bumper on. The crappy sears 10mm allen socket actually thins down to 7mm or so, and it twists right off...... The Snap-On allen sockets don't have that 'lightening'...........

KirkF

Eric,

I used locktite red on the oil pump nuts. (I guess I forgot to mention that above).

I have a set of 1/2" drive allen sockets, I can't remember what brand they are, but they are pretty tough. They survived the dissassembly of the brake calipers. (Miserable to split those things).
If they cant hack it I'll take your suggestion and acquire a set from snap on.

This weekend I will be pretty busy, but hopefully I can get the RMS in place and check the deck height.

Kirk

chancecasey

I used ARP rod bolts - which was why I was quick-draw mcgraw with the .012" stretch figure. I didn't use the lock tabs on the pump, either - just a bit of red loctite. The only part of the bottom end I'll need is new rod bearings. The rod knock was ever-so-slight and the motor only ran for a total of 45 minutes. My plan is to leave the case together - but I'll be taking a REAL close look at the bearing on the loose rod and my machinist can get in there through the spigot and mic it, put a light on it, check it out. If the bearing is ok, crank still has the polish and is ok, and the rod big end is still round, no need to crack the case again - I'll just put all new rod bearings on and assemble the rods in the case. Not for the faint of heart. I'll be taking torque-angle readings on the bench with a stretch gauge and use that method in vivo. Maybe I'll email the data to ARP and ask them to take those stupid f-ing torque values off the website. If all the things that should be ok don't check out ok I'll crack open the case, AGAIN.

Got another 2-3 hours in tonight - tranny, intake, clutch, flywheel, and mounting bracket are now off. I'm cutting through this thing like butter. Now if I can just get rid of those June bugs after dark...

KirkF

Chance,

When you installed the rod bolts the first time did you torque and loosen them 3-5 times and then do the final torque? Did you use the ARP lube?

You should take some pics. I would like to see the bearing, and some shots of you replacing them through the case spigot!

There was a couple interesting threads on pelican:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=198978

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...t&pagenumber=1

(The second one goes on and on and on.)

Personally I don't see why you had a problem with using torque. Almost everybody does it that way.

Kirk

chancecasey

No, I did not tighten/loosen 3-5 times - big mistake. At the time, that was not on the ARP website. While that significantly helps reduce the likelihood of this happening in street applications, the only way to be 100% sure is stretch. Jack Olsen's ex-mechanic told me a few blown-up engine stories about guys using torque (even with multiple cycles) with somewhat higher revving, racing engines. That's all i needed to hear. Maybe i will maybe I won't raise the rev, or do additional mods beyond the cams, but if one way produces problems and the other doesn't (in racing motors), the choice is obvious if you're putting all this time and money into it. Oh and yeah I used the ARP lube.

chancecasey

Oh yeah, a litte update on my progress - I had an unusual opportunity to get another 4 hours in today - removed fuel, ignition, tins, alt/fan, top engine cover, etc., and got it up on the stand. Good news is no major leaks - bad news is 2 minor leaks (not weeps) - 1 on the top breather cover gasket and another on an odd non-perimeter case stud/nut. It's the one that just kind of sits by itself, between the bottom perimeter and through-bolts - Kind of a useless looking stud. MAY have a bad seal on the oil pressure sender - not sure at this point. Everything else is bone dry though!

Kahdmus

Kirk, thanks for this thread, its an inspiration.

KirkF

Chance,

I hear ya about the lack of time. I work out of town monday-thursday night, so I only get a couple of opportunities on the weekend to get anything done.

The top breather gasket is interesting. It is supposed to be installed dry, but I was planning on putting 574 on both sides of all the paper gaskets.

Kirk

KirkF

I hope to take enough pictures and do enough writeup on this rebuild so I can walk through this blindfolded next time. (And so that everyone else can catch me if I make an oopsie!)
On the case halves it was a little difficult at certain stages to take alot of pictures, but I hope to be alot more thorough from now on.

Kirk

chancecasey

I started taking pics at the beginning, but my family destroyed our digital camera! I'll try to take a few with the crappy still-frame camera built into our video camera. Warning - the pictures are very grainy...