964 Engine Rebuild
#166
Looking good Kirk!!!
I've had 12K miles since my rebuilt. It runs better each day. I dynoed it today and got 218hp and 209ft-lb at the wheel. That's 256hp and 245ft-lb at the flywheel assuming 15% driveline loss! That is more than the factory spec for torque. The engine is comletely stock.
I am sure yours would make more hp.
---
anthony
I've had 12K miles since my rebuilt. It runs better each day. I dynoed it today and got 218hp and 209ft-lb at the wheel. That's 256hp and 245ft-lb at the flywheel assuming 15% driveline loss! That is more than the factory spec for torque. The engine is comletely stock.
I am sure yours would make more hp.
---
anthony
#167
Originally Posted by Smokin
Kirk (and others)... On my car, as well as other I have seen, there is only one tube from the distributor for venting. Yours has two with a tee in it. Did you do this for better venting or is mine incorrectly set up? I suppose I could buy another kit and add the tee with little or no problem.
#168
Porsche phoned this morning and told me my valve adjuster lock nut was in, so I got the #5 intake valve adjusted and the valve cover on the engine.
Then I rolled the engine over and installed the fiber shields, heat exchanger pipes and the rest of the exhaust.
Then I rolled the engine over and installed the fiber shields, heat exchanger pipes and the rest of the exhaust.
Last edited by KirkF; 09-26-2006 at 12:18 AM.
#169
At this point the motor is complete.
If anybody saw any disasterous mistakes in the last couple hundred posts or have any advice to offer, they had better do so soon.
Kirk
If anybody saw any disasterous mistakes in the last couple hundred posts or have any advice to offer, they had better do so soon.
Kirk
Last edited by KirkF; 09-26-2006 at 12:22 AM.
#170
Now on to the reason I dropped the motor in the first place.
*****CLUTCH REPLACEMENT*****
The following are a set of pictures showing the installation of the throwout bearing and associated components on the pressure plate.
**NOTE: The first thing to go on is the two spacers. In this photo it is difficult to see there are actually two spacers on top of each other being installed.
Kirk
*****CLUTCH REPLACEMENT*****
The following are a set of pictures showing the installation of the throwout bearing and associated components on the pressure plate.
**NOTE: The first thing to go on is the two spacers. In this photo it is difficult to see there are actually two spacers on top of each other being installed.
Kirk
Last edited by KirkF; 09-26-2006 at 12:27 AM.
#171
Next I replaced the bearings for the throwout lever, and lined up all the parts for tomorrow when I will be installing the pressure plate and mating the transmission to the engine.
Last edited by KirkF; 09-26-2006 at 12:30 AM.
#172
Jason,
Do you remember which parts of the clutch assembly were supposed to get the optimoly grease and which parts werent? I think I remember that this changed with the updated pieces?
Thanx
Kirk
Do you remember which parts of the clutch assembly were supposed to get the optimoly grease and which parts werent? I think I remember that this changed with the updated pieces?
Thanx
Kirk
#173
A few observations....
1. DAMN!!!... That engine is a work of art!
2. It always amazes me (when I see a complete Porsche engine on the stand) that you can stuff that engine back where it goes.
3. You've got to be wetting your pants waiting to fire it up for the first time!
I find my self reading and re-reading this thread a lot! I love your pictures and descriptions...
1. DAMN!!!... That engine is a work of art!
2. It always amazes me (when I see a complete Porsche engine on the stand) that you can stuff that engine back where it goes.
3. You've got to be wetting your pants waiting to fire it up for the first time!
I find my self reading and re-reading this thread a lot! I love your pictures and descriptions...
#174
Couple of things I learned during my rebuild.
Before you fire up the engine you need to do the following:
1. Spin the completed engine by hand to make sure it turns over smoothly
2. With engine in the car, pull the DME and fuel pump, fill the engine with 11 quarts of oil and crank the engine until you get oil pressure reading. It should be around 1. Let it sit overnight and check for leaks.
3. When you break in the engine (assuming you are using the 2000-4000 rpm immediately method for 10 min), jumper the aux oil cooler to high to help the engine cools. The oil will get HOT!!!
4. Have a BIG fire extinguisher nearby. Make it two.
Before you fire up the engine you need to do the following:
1. Spin the completed engine by hand to make sure it turns over smoothly
2. With engine in the car, pull the DME and fuel pump, fill the engine with 11 quarts of oil and crank the engine until you get oil pressure reading. It should be around 1. Let it sit overnight and check for leaks.
3. When you break in the engine (assuming you are using the 2000-4000 rpm immediately method for 10 min), jumper the aux oil cooler to high to help the engine cools. The oil will get HOT!!!
4. Have a BIG fire extinguisher nearby. Make it two.
#175
Rick,
Thanx. I asked the girlfriend if we should use it inm the living room as an art piece but she has declined. I'm not sure why. It certainly does look huge sitting there, I forgot how big the motor was when I took it out!
Anthony,
I'm using the same break in method you did. I've got two big fire extinguishers in the garage, so no worries there. Irolled the engine over several times and it feels good.
Today I am going to finish a couple minor items on the motor, and prep everything to install it in the car. If all goes well I am trying to get 4 people over this evening to help me lift it off the rebuild stand, get the pressure plate attached and the transmission bolted up. Then put it in the car.
Then I can spend all day friday getting everything connected.
I am still waiting for some wheel studs from performance products. They say they shipped them sept 7th but there is no sign of them. This is going to put a real dent in my completion schedule if they dont arrive! The brakes are all still waiting to go on...
Kirk
Thanx. I asked the girlfriend if we should use it inm the living room as an art piece but she has declined. I'm not sure why. It certainly does look huge sitting there, I forgot how big the motor was when I took it out!
Anthony,
I'm using the same break in method you did. I've got two big fire extinguishers in the garage, so no worries there. Irolled the engine over several times and it feels good.
Today I am going to finish a couple minor items on the motor, and prep everything to install it in the car. If all goes well I am trying to get 4 people over this evening to help me lift it off the rebuild stand, get the pressure plate attached and the transmission bolted up. Then put it in the car.
Then I can spend all day friday getting everything connected.
I am still waiting for some wheel studs from performance products. They say they shipped them sept 7th but there is no sign of them. This is going to put a real dent in my completion schedule if they dont arrive! The brakes are all still waiting to go on...
Kirk
#176
Hi Kirk,
Your engine sure looks nice. Congrats on the project and good luck when it gets to start it up.
I only have one thing to add. I'd make a small bracket from where the cone filter attaches to the throttlebody to one of the original airbox mounting holes. You don't want that cone filter flap around when driving and putting extra stress on the parts opposite the throttle body. Should be fairly easy to do now that it's still on the engine stand.
Michael
Your engine sure looks nice. Congrats on the project and good luck when it gets to start it up.
I only have one thing to add. I'd make a small bracket from where the cone filter attaches to the throttlebody to one of the original airbox mounting holes. You don't want that cone filter flap around when driving and putting extra stress on the parts opposite the throttle body. Should be fairly easy to do now that it's still on the engine stand.
Michael
#177
Originally Posted by KirkF
Do you remember which parts of the clutch assembly were supposed to get the optimoly grease and which parts werent? I think I remember that this changed with the updated pieces?
#178
Jason,
Hmm, all I have is the 3EP, and this is getting bolted together today so I will use it on the
1. slave cylinder receiving cup
2. operating shaft end bearings, and fill the black end cap
3. white plastic inserts in the clutch fork
4. input shafts.
Let me know if you think I should put some on that guide tube or not. It seems strange to leave it dry.
All I have on hand is this Olista 3EP, regular high pressure grease, lubro moly anti seize, mobil 1 synthetic lubricating grease (white) and thats about it. I could go down to my local porsche dealership but every time I try them its a week. Whats the part number on the Optimoly MPO from porsche do you know?
Thanx
Kirk
Hmm, all I have is the 3EP, and this is getting bolted together today so I will use it on the
1. slave cylinder receiving cup
2. operating shaft end bearings, and fill the black end cap
3. white plastic inserts in the clutch fork
4. input shafts.
Let me know if you think I should put some on that guide tube or not. It seems strange to leave it dry.
All I have on hand is this Olista 3EP, regular high pressure grease, lubro moly anti seize, mobil 1 synthetic lubricating grease (white) and thats about it. I could go down to my local porsche dealership but every time I try them its a week. Whats the part number on the Optimoly MPO from porsche do you know?
Thanx
Kirk