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I believe the gold is "glow gold" and the gray is S7 metallic. The receipt is in the SC, which is in the shop to get the A/C fixed as it's about to become brutally hot in Houston.
Once I get the car back I'll let you know for sure. I just picked a gold that matches my roll bar and the gray so I can see if there are any oil leaks easier and to brighten things up a bit in lieu of going black on all the tins.
Getting ready to clean up/chase the head stud threads in the case. I have read different things around what tap to use and wanted to see what you guys think.
I've read use a normal M10x1.5, M10x1.5 NP6, and obviously I can use an old head stud (which I have thrown away).
Any guidance?
is there a reason to suspect damage or are you just cleaning them to prepare for the new studs? On both motors that I have replaced studs on I don’t recall taking any unusual procedures besides cleaning out old loctite with brake cleaner blowing out residue with compressed air then running a standard cleaning tap through a few times.
is there a reason to suspect damage or are you just cleaning them to prepare for the new studs? On both motors that I have replaced studs on I don’t recall taking any unusual procedures besides cleaning out old loctite with brake cleaner blowing out residue with compressed air then running a standard cleaning tap through a few times.
Just cleaning the threads up so there's no binding/odd torque values when the new ones go in.
I have a standard M10x1.5 tap, but read that if you use the wrong one it'll take too much material out and the new head studs won't secure properly. That's the last thing I want to do, just being risk averse.
Also I believe studs are installed based on length not torque, but of course you want things clean as a whistle anyway so the loctite grabs nicely etc.
I have a generic metric kit with both cleaning dies and taps, use it very often.
Talked to my buddy who's a machinist and he recommended just using a bolt with a slit cut in the threads instead of spending $20+ on a chasing tap. Thanks for the help.
Hey joe- don't know how i missed this thread ! Just read through it. Hate to break it to you, but it s already brutally hot in Houston....just not quite as brutal as it will be!
Hey joe- don't know how i missed this thread ! Just read through it. Hate to break it to you, but it s already brutally hot in Houston....just not quite as brutal as it will be!
Stay safe- looking forward to following along
It hasn't cracked 90* just yet, it's still sweater weather for native Hustonians!
At this point I'm just waiting on my heads/cylinders to come back from the machine shop. Everything is cleaned up, media blasted/powdercoated, engine bay is as clean as I'm willing to make it, A/C lines removed, etc.
While I'm waiting I'll be taking a look at my seats/seat mounts to install sliders and add my 3 point belt back in on at least the drivers side. The seat is currently hard mounted to the floor, but it's about an inch too low (I'm short) and doing up 5 points is a pain for just bebopping around town.
Will probably start on that tonight.
Apologies, should clarify! I have 993 cams/towers on my 964 bottom end. It's a hodge podge of mixed bits from the POs rebuild.
I'll be putting 993 valves in, so may be more that than 964 now!
My thoughts exactly on the fasteners, if they're as good there's no point spending $5/bolt when $1 will do.
Interesting. Are you running the hydraulic lifters as well?
Out of curiosity, how does the 964 AC handle that heat? You go to R134?
No clue, it's never functioned properly so it's all getting pulled out in the name of simplify and add lightness. I also put a second oil cooler up where the A/C condenser once stood.
Since my car is an '89 it was originally R12, but it was swapped over to R143 at some point.
Originally Posted by cobalt
Interesting. Are you running the hydraulic lifters as well?
Yes, I am. It was done by the PO on their rebuild around 1999, but then they used the old style cylinders with no head gaskets, so who knows what their reasoning was.
On the upside, valve adjustments are a thing of the past (on this car, anyway) and I picked up some later style cylinders and am having Supertec machine the heads to accept a gasket.
Got my drivers seat mounted up with a slider finally. I initially had it hard mounted, but that didn’t work out so well. Took some doing because I removed the oem seat mounts ages ago (hindsight embers really is 20/20), as a result of that and since the seat base/mount is so low I had to relocate the Motronic unit to the floor board behind the seat. Good thing I kept the Appbiz RS floor mats! It looks fine and no one is sitting back there, so works for me.
Because my proportions are all wonky, the dish on my wheel is a bit too much with the quick release, and I also really wanted a Prototipo (how’s that for justification) I ordered up a new wheel today. My current wheel is a Renown 130R and I’m replacing it with a Renown Monaco Dark (Prototipo clone). They’re an American company that makes some great wheels for a good price. If you’re ever in the market I’d suggest checking them out.
As it stands I’m just cleaning bits and bobs waiting for my heads/cylinders to come back. Then it’ll be fast and furious to assemble the car...to be quarantined.
Can you guys let me know what this vacuum hose goes to? One end goes into a Y on the plenum, which then goes to the back of the intake runner (cyl 1-3). It had some tape on it from the PO attempting to plug it, I’m guessing.
03-26-2020, 10:10 PM
