When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Glue on the tip of a long bolt to pull it out? Doesn't look greasy, so you may have luck. Could be a job that JB Weld will actually work. I would tap it a few times with a long punch to help free it from sticking before the glue attempt.
It turned out not to be a sheared allen in there, the exhaust stud wasn't threaded fully into the head so the nut, when torqued, had the bolt sit too high. Ended up having to pull the cam tower (had to do it anyway), so I could get some vice grips on the nut.
On another note, whoever built this engine 20 years ago put thread locker on all of the cam tower bolts which was a nightmare, and caused one of them to shear off, so I'll have to weld a nut on there to try and back that one out.
Other than that, great progress made last night. Got both cam towers off, down to the heads now. Going to remove the heads tonight and get them prepped to send to Supertec.
Nice work. Whats the plan for the heads? Stock specs or...?
Thanks. 993 valves (8mm vs 9mm stems), Ti springs/retainers/etc. Other than that, nothing special.
I already have 993ss cams and will be keeping a totally stock bottom end.
Heads and cylinders pulled, ready to be packed up and sent off to Supertec for a little bit of love.
The head bolts were slightly less successful. I knew I had some broken bolts, final tally was 4 broken head bolts, one cracked but got it out, and another cracked that broke whilst trying to remove it.
Not to mention the random smattering that didn’t want to come off using the jam but method. And of course I ran out of mapp gas. I’ll get a new bottle tomorrow, along with an actual head stud puller for the ones that have threads.
Anyone have a good method for extracting the snapped studs? Luckily they’re all >4” so have some meat to grab on to.
A good stud puller can work even on the non threaded portion. I used one with a decent dose of MAPP on the case then installed it in my biggest impact wrench.
Short of that you can weld on a nut or use a thread forming die to make new threads.
I'm sure you realize your cyl head temp sender is still on #3. Don't mess it up removing! Replacements are $$ and or have wrong terminal, as I learned.
A good stud puller can work even on the non threaded portion. I used one with a decent dose of MAPP on the case then installed it in my biggest impact wrench.
Short of that you can weld on a nut or use a thread forming die to make new threads.
I'm sure you realize your cyl head temp sender is still on #3. Don't mess it up removing! Replacements are $$ and or have wrong terminal, as I learned.
Okay, great. I'll see if any of my buddies have one laying around I can use. If not, I will just rethread a portion of it.
I do, ran out of quart bags so left it on there in order to not lose it until I can pick some more up.
Got the stud removal tool last night and zipped out all but one stud (it's one of the broken ones, just need to get some more MAPP gas to help persuade it out).
On another note, I have 993 cam towers on my car, and therefore the plastic valve covers. What are everyone's thoughts on getting the billet covers? I haven't checked the straight-ness of the plastic ones, but instead of "upgrading" to an RS pulley set if the billet covers are worth it re-purposing that money might be a consideration.
There's nothing wrong with them (I think). They have been known to warp slightly which makes them difficult to seal. I haven't checked this yet, but thought I'd throw it out to the crowd.
Genuine replacements are available for a reasonable cost, but still run that risk of slight warping.
Got the final head stud out, that tool was a life saver!
Pulling pistons as we speak, running into something funky. I got all 4 pistons out no problem, however pistons 3 & 6 are at BDC and when I try to turn the crank (either direction) it feels like there’s some kind of obstruction. Obviously there are no cams holding things up, not sure what’s causing the hang up and don’t want to force anything.
The crank rotates ~10* in either direction but not enough to push the pistons out of the case.