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I failed to separate the transmission from the engine today. It's not a one person job, at least not without a hoist. That's fine, I've already taken the "while you're in there" far enough.
Today was taking care of small things and also moving the engine out of my wife's parking spot and back to under my car. I finished installing the new fuel lines and power steering lines. Super easy with the engine out.
I then decided to tackle my oil filler "grand canyon" crack. The neck is fully gone...disintegrated...
This is supposedly the Porsche approved remedy:
It's still ghetto...
Sigh... On to finishing the coil pack install. I was thinking ahead and being nice for the next owner and put the date on these. The old ones looked fine. Chalk that up to unnecessary fixes.
I still have a lot to do. I'll post pics later of the powder coated parts but they look great. Need to clean the intake stacks, finish the spark plug wiring, fit the AN6 front to back fuel lines (Christmas day project) and a bunch of small things (e.g. Clean my nails...or cut them to make them no longer black).
All in all, this has been a rollercoaster of a weekend. Thursday night was full of self doubt and concern of owning this car...Friday morning elation when I finally dropped the engine and then for the past two days a little more enjoyment of working on and fixing things on the car. I'm not through to the other end yet but I've gone from having serious doubts about my ownership of this car back to believing that I can tackle a rebuild myself.
Looking good. A lot of work. You should be able to remove the trans by yourself. Just takes some brute force.
Don't forget to degunk the inside of the heater boxes while your at it. Most likely they have oil inside and will leak out when heated driving you crazy after all the work.
Take a break it is the Holidays and enjoy. In the end you will be very happy you did all the extra stuff.
Thanks for the tip on the heat tubes. They are indeed gunked up.
I decided to go further down the rabbit hole and take care of the clutch now. I also ordered a new trans mount and will take care of the front diff leak. The list keeps growing.
Spent a few minutes putting the new fan into the freshly powder coated housing:
Need to put the intake back together as well but looks much better after being blasted and powder coated silver:
I took a break this afternoon to work on my wife's 958 Cayenne since the Indy is on holiday for two weeks and she needs the PCV replaced. I figured I'd do it myself...starting to regret that decision. What an unpleasant car to work on. Vacuum lines galore that don't want to budge, bolts that require a contortionist to get to and a few SAE fittings in there for good measure. I had to pause to make dinner but I need to figure out how to get to the last M10 12 PT bolt so I can release the manifold.
I find my 997 most unpleasant to work on compared to the 964, and I won’t even touch the Cayman!
Enjoying your work and following your experience closely, this winter is mostly suspension and bodywork for me, next winter could be my first engine/tranny drop.
So, I figured out why I couldn't separate the transmission. The release fork still had the shaft in place. With that out of the way, my friend and I managed to separate the transmission and install the new clutch assembly. Upgraded to the Rausch brass bushing shaft. Looking forward to a smooth, light(er) clutch action. Also replaced the RMS.
Prior to that, I redid the front to back fuel line with the AN6 braided hose. I used a 180* fitting for the fuel pump as a 90* would put the hose too low below the car and risk getting hit. I'm almost done with that replacement, just need to run the hose into the engine bay and cut the line to size. I removed the old hard line one, which seems like it would have been awful to reinstall as I bent it multiple ways to remove it.
Lastly, I got the 993 hose in. It looks like it may work but I'm just going to make a replacement hose out of the braided lines. The angles and length of hard line are not identical.
Had a few setbacks this weekend. Went to replace the seals in the power steering pump, only to find out the kit had the wrong size main seal. Was hoping to get the engine back in for a New Years day cruise up to Newcombs. At this point, that was still a possibility. After that, I went to drain the front diff fluid to prep for the reseal of the front diff. I forgot that in the instructions for trans fluid changes that you should always undo the top plug before you drain fluid...cause my drain plug is fused and I didn't realize that until I drained the tranny fluid...F&^K...I don't think I'm getting this done in time for New Years :-(
I need to grind that off, but I can't get my 4.5" angle grinder in there. If I undo the tunnel connection, can I tilt the diff forward enough to be able to get to the plug? This link suggests that the diff goes forward if you don't support it, the question is how far will it lower before it gets caught up in the PS rack:
always some thing. when I first got my car I did an engine drop to replace clutch and reseal some leaks and every time I did some thing their was always more. went to get it aligned and found the rack leaking. only money!
Anyone have a clue how to torque the integrated hub single belt pulleys to spec? My fancy tool doesn't work on it so I need to figure out how else to secure it in place.
Nevermind, after further research it seems that you shouldn't run these unless your crankshaft has been balanced. The stock heavy unit acts as a harmonize and is necessary for the health of the engine.
Yea I was even slightly worried about this going to the RS fan hub due to the decreased drag of the additional belt and even more if I decide to delete a/c
Cardinal rule of changing fluids: unbolt the fill plug before draining. Front diff fill plug was seized. Was able to carefully get at it with the angle grinder today by tilting the tunnel. Also found a bit of loose undercoating which was hiding some surface rust. So, dealt with that today as well since it was 70* and warm enough for painting.
Anyone have a clue how to torque the integrated hub single belt pulleys to spec? My fancy tool doesn't work on it so I need to figure out how else to secure it in place.
We all have to learn the hardway sometimes. But making decent progress considering the constraints.
What pulley are you using? I don't recognize it and it does not seem to be harmonically balanced which is going to be an issue if that is the case. The 993 could swap out pulleys since they don't required the harmonically balanced one used on the 964's