When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Visually, the other lines look and feel okay. Is this one of those things where I might as well go ahead and replace the others (they're roughly $125 a pop) or if they aren't cracking or the fittings are rotating loosely then leave them be?
I took Cobalt's advice and decided to wait until the end of the year to tackle the valve adjustment and instead take care of a few of the other things I've been meaning to get to. As I was stripping down the Intake Manifold I found a bubble in the fuel line. Is this the correct replacement part for the part where the screw driver is pointing to:
Guess it was a good thing I decided to tackle the intake manifold cleaning today...yeesh.
Man that is not something you want to see. Glad you will replace it before it was tool late. IMO might as well do it once and be done. Also your power steering line seems to be swelling so I would consider replacing it as well. I find a lot of oily mess comes from this as well. Something to consider over the holiday break.
Looking over Adrian's book on dropping the engine, it looks like based on where I am with disassembly (and what I'll need to disassemble to resolve the fuel line and p/s leaks), I'm not that far away from being able to drop the engine. I'll mull that over today. My hesitation to drop the engine is mostly due to space constraints and fear of my well being if I park the engine in a stand in my wife's spot (making her park outside). But, looking at the space I have behind the car, does it look like there's enough room to move the engine around on an ATV lift if the bumper is off and the intake manifold is off? Fan/housing and engine tins will need to come off and get sent in for powder coating so that should give a little more wiggle room. The entry to my garage is on an angle, so I don't have much room to go back.
if I keep the engine on the ATV lift, I am hoping that I can move the engine around to work on it during the day and store it under the car when she needs to park in her spot. If there isn't enough clearance to move the engine fully around, with the rear lifted high enough to drop the engine, can I easily (enough) get to everything I need to just leaving it on the ATV lift under the car?
Only have a couple of feet behind the bumper of level ground.
I was hoping to get the valve covers refinished but the lower one has a crack in the top left corner. I ordered a replacement set from Rennline last night and received an email that they're out of stock
If you don't have the space IMO I wouldn't consider the drop till you do. There is a lot to consider and with such limited space you will be working on top of yourself. It usually makes for bad endings. I have made the mistake more than a few times when necessity dictated but won't drop an engine without a lift and lift table any more. I also need elbow room to work on an engine, to walk around it when needed and rotate it on the stand.
Related question is how high do you need to get the car to fit the ATV lift with engine to clear the back of the car? Would a quickjack on the higher setting be enough?
regarding the OP, I agree with Cobalt and would not attempt with what you are showing in the pics.
If the transmission stays bolted to the block, you'll need another jack to balance the end of the trans on (with the block on the ATV jack). So you'll need another person to support it when you're moving it around.
That drop away at your driveway limits your choices.
Here's a video of my car coming off the engine. We use a pallet and the ATV jack is already up, so it's not the best depiction of how much height you need...but if you compare the size of the engine, the ATV jack and the body of the car, you get the idea...
Looks like I'll have to plan a 3 day weekend around this. Should I add RSR rocker shaft seals as well? It looks like you partially remove the rocker arms to install them, does that mean it'd be safe to remove the rocker arms and inspect for pitting while I'm taking care of that?
I need to figure out what I'm doing about valve covers if Rennline is backordered for awhile. Anyone sitting on an extra pair of aluminum ones?
Looks like I'll have to plan a 3 day weekend around this. Should I add RSR rocker shaft seals as well? It looks like you partially remove the rocker arms to install them, does that mean it'd be safe to remove the rocker arms and inspect for pitting while I'm taking care of that?
I need to figure out what I'm doing about valve covers if Rennline is backordered for awhile. Anyone sitting on an extra pair of aluminum ones?
I do this a lot and even with all the tools and help it takes me longer than 3 days. I would plan 3 weeks to be safe. There is always something that causes delays.
Should I add RSR rocker shaft seals as well? It looks like you partially remove the rocker arms to install them, does that mean it'd be safe to remove the rocker arms and inspect for pitting while I'm taking care of that?
Don't touch the rocker shaft seals unless they are leaking. You can check the camshafts as you rotate the engine while adjusting the valves.
I do this a lot and even with all the tools and help it takes me longer than 3 days. I would plan 3 weeks to be safe. There is always something that causes delays.
Fair. The car has been on stands for a week doing exactly that, waiting for parts that I've discovered I needed while I remove things.
Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
Don't touch the rocker shaft seals unless they are leaking. You can check the camshafts as you rotate the engine while adjusting the valves.
Leaks would look like the below image (not mine) correct? If so, you should be able to see that by peeking through the spark plug connector hole?
Welp, while I was going to make a trip to the powder coasters, might as well take off anything else that could use some refreshing. After pulling the rear tin, I noticed I have a leak from the seal behind the crank pulley. If I'm going to get that, I may want to do the seals behind the sprockets in the cam housing. I'll probably send the injectors in to get refurbished too since I should be able to get those back quickly.
I may want to do the seals behind the sprockets in the cam housing.
At that point you might as well just drop the motor. You can retime the cams with the engine in the car but everything you want to do is so much easier when you aren't crawling around on your back.
I see a lot of man hours that would put me in traction by now. It is one way to learn how much work is involved and the workings of these cars. Without further investigation it is hard to say what some of these leaks are from. Take a million pictures from all angles it will be worth it later.
I recommend a careful cleaning and inspection of the magnesium parts before refinishing.
12-01-2019, 01:06 AM
