I tried to give the Kevlar sale to a seller in upstate New York. They didn't have time for me, and when i called them, they said "your order is small so it's under review". - even though they said on their website they sell by the foot for the product i wanted. I told them to double the order of need be, just tell me how much i need to buy. Since i knew i was going to buy ALOT more. They said they had to leave for an office party (it was 2pm mid week), and they would get back to me. They didn't.

So it was back to amazon.


I'd love to give my business to local businesses, but it's impossible when they don't want to do business. I never tell anyone they aren't enough for me...i just help them as i can, and later if they get bigger and want more, or if i can help more,i just do it...what's wrong with this world.

For those of you not from the north east of the US- businesses here are failing and suffering...and it's impossible to find an American that just wants to work- though they all say they want to work- but then they bitch when they are at work, and don't like doing their job...ugh.

The product that i ordered is exactly the same product they didn't want to sell me, using the same picture on their website as the picture on amazon. It's a thin wall Kevlar. I've found that if i tuck the end of the Kevlar roll into the end of the hose, and then run the Kevlar over the hose it creates a double layer and it's way easier to install and looks much better.

When i get the process down and the sealing of the Kevlar figured out (allowing the hose to still be flexible) - I'll write something up on the process.

Stainless and plastic braids are WAY easier btw...

But - alas - they aren't as cool, aren't as fire proof and are definitely not....bullet proof..lol

Yu know, because when people in my neighborhood are randomly shooting off a few rounds, my vac hoses will be just fine...



Fwiw- the shrink tubing that i ordered from a shop in Florida - weeks ago, shipped today. And i ordered the same shrink tube a couple days ago from....amazon...and it arrived today. Again. Same deal. I called - ohhhh yeah. We are getting to that. Forgot. Sorry , yeah, I'll get that out ASAP...la la la...

So- for anyone out there that wants to compete you'd better either have a much better product that only you have, or you'd better step up the game and make your customer feel like there is a reason to call you first...aka...make at least the impression that you care. Or....we will be stuck with a few basic products on...amazon.

Thank god for rennline, pelican, sunset, and a few others....should have said sunset first there...cuz those guys, particularly when bob was still on the other side of the phone, set the bar. "Hey bob, i have a 91 964 and i need this totally obscure part"....answer..."oh yeah that one was 964.654.676.87, but they've replaced that 8 Times and now it's 999.876.78.01 - need anything else? Oh no, i don't look at the parts catalog anymore - i have it memorized - for all the cars"

Thanks bob.

 

Should have bought it in black ;-)

 

Well yes. But that would have been too easy. Gotta love a challenge

 

Spoke with the seal guy today.

Good news and bad news.
First- the bad news. The seals are expensive. If i were buying thousands, they wouldn't be, but for just a few seals, it's too high. I am buying 2 at the moment, i think, just to try it. But in the end, i think the cost of new bearings will end up similar, and I'll get a new tool out of the deal...soooo....being a tool junky, i May go this direction.

The good news? I now will have sets of diff lock seals so we have a source closer to home. I'll post more about those once I've installed them on a test car and know we are good to go first hand.



Next up will maybe be clutch slave seals. Cuz why not save a few bucks there too?

 

The bearing sizes are:

Larger flaps
Hk 1012 2rs (just rs if you want a single lip seal)

Little flap
Hk 0810 2rs (just rs for single seal)

I'm going with double seals

Seems bearing naming standards have changed since 1991. Who knew?

Now on to pulling them. The bearings cost less per bearing than resealing them.

 

Can those of you that ordered an aluminum wot dingle pm me and let me know how they arrive. Val's was torn open twice...so i may need to adjust the ship method...seems paper tears...whodathunk...

I know it's not the most professional presentation - but if it makes it to the car, we are good!

 

Got mine, thak you. Now to test the one way air valve...

 

Did a little work today. I'm exhausted, so don't have it in me to do anything more...

Here are a couple shots of what the insides of the intake manifolds look like after cleaning.







When you take the manifolds out, there is typically a crap ton of gritty oily baked on gunk all over this area. Assuming the ridges offer plenty of bite for this stuff to begin to stick, I'm sanding and honing these smooth.

Here's a couple after shots. I've only been working on one manifold. The other side will come later as i find time. This isn't a quick job. Likely because i lack the right tools to do it quickly...





Once i get to the end with these, they are getting ceramic coated inside and out. So nothing will stock to them. And they will stay nice and clean.

Then, i took a rotary sanding disk and a drill and began a rough first pass on the top...





Looks terrible...but it's a rough first pass...don't worry...it'll come together. Haven't fully settled on how i plan to finish them yet. But getting there.

Have i mentioned yet that SKF double sealed bearings have been ordered for the throttle body?

Hk 1012 2rs - 4 of these
Hk 0812 2rs - 2 of these

I've now read every carburetor and throttle body rebuild thread there is on the interwebs and have found that as much as I'd like to not buy a special slide hammer just for 6 bearings...that really it's the right and only way.

If you shove an expansion bolt into the needle bearing and use enough pressure to grip the bearings, you risk pressing the needles into the aluminum hole on the throttle body and dimpling the inside of the hole. So that's a no-go...
Correct tool it will have to be.

Back to hoses and lines. I've been testing the other vac valves in the system - since they are languishing on the bench. They all seem to work well enough. So i may or may not replace them. Not sure how freely they need to breath. But they hold vacuum for sure.

 

This is the gunk...



So if you missed it...trying to make this not happen in the future.

Someday we will figure out how to not get oil in the intake as well...I'm not convinced it's just from over filling. I'd also like to know why after driving the car, the oil would still be in there. You can take the right hand manifold out---look in the bottom cross tube of the throttle body, you'll see a pool of oil. Reassemble, drive the car, take the manifold out again, and you'll still see the oil. So what gives. Must study this at some point. Wish i could simulate the situation on an engine dyno...

Or i could just be wrong. And that check valve that rothsport sells covers the problem.
Has anyone installed one and looked to see if it resolves the oil in the intake problem?

 

Without a PCV I am surprised it's not worse.

 

these are like the inside bearing pullers I have. If you want to use them let me know site didn't load

 

Thanks- i bought a set tonight. Walmart has a sale for the kit- 30 dollars...ask and ye shall receive!

There is a thread somewhere about adding a pcv to the 964 motor. Apparently it adds a ton of hp. I'll have to look into that at some point.

Right now I'm searching for 4mm id vacuum hose that's harder and stiffer than the various hoses i have. Porsche uses a plastic hard line for a reason. I'd like to replace that with something more like a brake line, but am having difficulty finding what I'm looking for.

It has to be 5/32 or 4mm id- and not silicone. Looking for something hard, non-collapsible and ok with gasoline, chemicals, etc.

 

I think its mostly piston blowby and is more problematic on the MY89-90? Porsche modified the piston ring grooves multiple times during production but never got it 100% correct and it just gets worse with age.

Here's the Porsche Motorsports version of the 5HP one-way crankcase valve that won't prevent oil misting:






And here's the Robert Linton Version:





You also need to replace the RMS with the PTFE version that will hold a vacuum. Otherwise it whistles and allows air to bypass in the process, which prevents a vacuum from forming in the crankcase and no 5HP.

 

 

Next pass. Arms are tired. Coming along slowly.











This is getting painted in the end. But needs to be sanded and shaped prior. Almost there.

Then the real question. Do i add a logo? Do i use decales or a raised letter type thing? No decisions yet.