guru 364 or vitesse stage 2?
09-17-2003, 09:57 PM
#46
Race Director
Just my .02- From my 6/7 years of knowing Tony G, he is a very standup guy. He cut me an unbelieveable deal that most would laugh at. Dont bash Tony if youve never dealt with him, whats the point besides post whoring...But in the end, it wasnt the right time and I passed on the same deal he gave me to another rennlister. For my relatively mild HP goal and my limited knowledge in setting up a High-HP 951 (330ish rwhp around 15psi) the Vitesse Kit does what it says and comes with someone that is available and willing to help. Ive yet to here someone running Johns kit with something negative to say, that speaks volumes! In the midwest I need that 
09-17-2003, 10:41 PM
#47
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: ottawa
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What more can you say about Vitesse that has not been said before.
Product delivers as promised, tec support after sales is super, and email is answered promptly. Package delvers as promised, a guy I know, got 337 at 15psi. I have driven his car and it pulls all the way to 260km like my car pulls to 200km and at what cost he paid 2500$ US. Like Sam said"not a bad word has been said about John."
Product delivers as promised, tec support after sales is super, and email is answered promptly. Package delvers as promised, a guy I know, got 337 at 15psi. I have driven his car and it pulls all the way to 260km like my car pulls to 200km and at what cost he paid 2500$ US. Like Sam said"not a bad word has been said about John."
09-18-2003, 07:22 PM
#48
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
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Tony G -
have you used the proM maf tuner?
I have it and want to take it off
poor idle (dips down)
weather messes this thing up (hot/cold)
runs poor when the car is cold
I have done 70 dyno runs and it's different every time I bring it in for a session
is there something I'm missing?
ps. now for some reason I have to max out the first **** to get it to idle correctly (no new parts added)
any suggestions?
I have it and want to take it off
poor idle (dips down)
weather messes this thing up (hot/cold)
runs poor when the car is cold
I have done 70 dyno runs and it's different every time I bring it in for a session
is there something I'm missing?
ps. now for some reason I have to max out the first **** to get it to idle correctly (no new parts added)
any suggestions?
09-18-2003, 08:02 PM
#50
Rennlist Junkie Forever
emwporsche
I currently use the Pro-M.
My car drives perfectly, idles perfectly, and exibits zero drivability issues.
You obviously have a problem and the Pro-M setup could be incorrect, but it sounds like you have other problems.
The idle dipping down is because you have the Pro-M setup incorrectly, and is the result of too much fuel.
What MAF unit are you using?
Give me the list of what you have done to your car (modifications).
I currently use the Pro-M.
My car drives perfectly, idles perfectly, and exibits zero drivability issues.
You obviously have a problem and the Pro-M setup could be incorrect, but it sounds like you have other problems.
The idle dipping down is because you have the Pro-M setup incorrectly, and is the result of too much fuel.
What MAF unit are you using?
Give me the list of what you have done to your car (modifications).
09-18-2003, 08:46 PM
#51
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2003
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Tony where is the best and cheapest store to buy the Tail wastegate (46mm). Are these the best for our cars?I'm planning on getting guru's 364 kit, soon so would this work well with his kit.
09-18-2003, 09:35 PM
#52
Rennlist Junkie Forever
'86 944 turbo
I got mine from SpeedForce. SpeedForce offers the Tial 46mm as a true bolt-on setup with no modifications necessary. They do modify your stock wastegate feed pipe (which is removable) so that the Tial 46mm bolts right in. I think they sell the wastegate feed pipe with the kit on an exchange basis.
The Tial 46mm is the best wastegate on the market period.
If you can afford the extra money, get the 46mm Tial vs a smaller Tial as the larger valve will be faster and more accurate.
Also with the Tial 46mm, all you need for boost control is the "black ****" manual boost controller. No need for expensive electronics.
My boost is rock solid with zero detectable fluctuations on a boost gauge.
I got mine from SpeedForce. SpeedForce offers the Tial 46mm as a true bolt-on setup with no modifications necessary. They do modify your stock wastegate feed pipe (which is removable) so that the Tial 46mm bolts right in. I think they sell the wastegate feed pipe with the kit on an exchange basis.
The Tial 46mm is the best wastegate on the market period.
If you can afford the extra money, get the 46mm Tial vs a smaller Tial as the larger valve will be faster and more accurate.
Also with the Tial 46mm, all you need for boost control is the "black ****" manual boost controller. No need for expensive electronics.
My boost is rock solid with zero detectable fluctuations on a boost gauge.
09-18-2003, 09:48 PM
#54
Rennlist Junkie Forever
'86 944 turbo
Hey... definitely not the best... more like the biggest gluttn' for punishment here ... :-)
But that's for the compliment anyway. The info exchange is what makes the Rennlist such an excellent place to hangout as well as an incredible resource for us.
Take care,
Hey... definitely not the best... more like the biggest gluttn' for punishment here ... :-)
But that's for the compliment anyway. The info exchange is what makes the Rennlist such an excellent place to hangout as well as an incredible resource for us.
Take care,
09-18-2003, 10:38 PM
#55
Pro
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
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86' 944 Turbo....
Check with Myswiss, I believe he can get you the 46mm tial and adapter plates and he is in Canada so it may come out a little cheaper with out all the duties/brokerage fees...
Good luck.
Check with Myswiss, I believe he can get you the 46mm tial and adapter plates and he is in Canada so it may come out a little cheaper with out all the duties/brokerage fees...
Good luck.
09-18-2003, 11:22 PM
#57
Drifting
Join Date: Dec 2001
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"Hey... definitely not the best... more like the biggest gluttn' for punishment here ... :-) "
Well, "definitely" a good sport for sure.
There are lots of folks who gripe about twiddlin' ***** to get their MAF and fuel controller dialed in for swings in ambient temps. I'm wondering if Tony's good luck with MAF has something to do with his locale? I hear that one day there may actually have a different temp than another by a whole degree or two.
That fact that he might have picked up a thing or two with all of his 951 experiences might have something to do with his MAF success. In the spirit of sharing good info with the 'List I'd like to add that with a very simplistic MAP-based system tuned wholly by a knucklehead (me) with a narrowband O2 in car (no dyno time), I drive in temps ranging from 0 degrees F to 109 degrees F without adjusting a damn thing and the drivability is at least as good as stock. I don't see any inherent issues with a MAP system anymore than MAF.
I sell nice bikes for a living and I get asked a lot "what's the best material to use to build a bike (frame) ?". The answer is: It doesn't matter which material it's built out of. Buy the frame that represents the best EXECUTION of a particular material.
Well, "definitely" a good sport for sure.
There are lots of folks who gripe about twiddlin' ***** to get their MAF and fuel controller dialed in for swings in ambient temps. I'm wondering if Tony's good luck with MAF has something to do with his locale? I hear that one day there may actually have a different temp than another by a whole degree or two.
That fact that he might have picked up a thing or two with all of his 951 experiences might have something to do with his MAF success. In the spirit of sharing good info with the 'List I'd like to add that with a very simplistic MAP-based system tuned wholly by a knucklehead (me) with a narrowband O2 in car (no dyno time), I drive in temps ranging from 0 degrees F to 109 degrees F without adjusting a damn thing and the drivability is at least as good as stock. I don't see any inherent issues with a MAP system anymore than MAF. I sell nice bikes for a living and I get asked a lot "what's the best material to use to build a bike (frame) ?". The answer is: It doesn't matter which material it's built out of. Buy the frame that represents the best EXECUTION of a particular material.
09-19-2003, 01:06 AM
#58
Rennlist Junkie Forever
The weather here isn't quite that good... I wish it was.
The reality is that here in Southern California, we get an approximate fluctuation in temps from about 45F to 110F.
I've driven this car to Phoenix, to Nevada, and all over souther California (San Diego to San Fransisco) with zero issues.
The reality is that here in Southern California, we get an approximate fluctuation in temps from about 45F to 110F.
I've driven this car to Phoenix, to Nevada, and all over souther California (San Diego to San Fransisco) with zero issues.
09-19-2003, 02:14 AM
#59
Racer
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: South Florida
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Morning Team,
Please excuse my grammar as it is 1 AM on the East Coast now and I have been up since 5AM. I cannot compare my system with others because I have no experience with anything else other than a box full of chip upgrades. However, I just got my “Excellent” (November 2003) magazine and on page 23 KoKeln is now offering the APMLink per-programmed with chips. I am very interested in the Kokeln chips to solve the just off throttle stumble or what some call a bog off line. I have minimized it but it is still there.
Right now, I have too many projects in the fire, strapped for cash, near to death (wife found Baby’s credit card), have Baby closely dialed in and I scheduled some dyno time to post my numbers to purchase the chips Trust me guys, I will be posting somewhere between 350-375 rwhp. My BF Goodrich tires don’t stand a chance. This car is an animal with this current set-up. The link does take effort to tune in, no question. You must get the serial link and have a laptop. Further, I suggest doing your research on turbochargers and please post for dyno results for us to compare. I have seen a lot of mis-information out there. Give me another week for me to post my numbers. Once you have a handle on how the Link system works (moving around in the cells), count on a taking either a Saturday afternoon or early morning. Be sure to have your Valentine detector in good working order as well.
My main reason for not heartily recommending the Link system is the extended waiting period and as one Rennlist member accurately put it “his 5 year old nephew’s attempt on creating a J pipe “ At best the Guru’s product is a poor quality job that should have never been sent to anyone other than back to the subcontractor that created it. Now that Kokeln is offering the system, I doubt that the wait will be so long. Hopefully, someone on the board is in better financial shape than I am currently and can buy the Kokeln chips and swap them out with Guru’s chips and let us know if the stumble issue is solved. If not by the end of the month I’ll take the dive and report back.
Please excuse my grammar as it is 1 AM on the East Coast now and I have been up since 5AM. I cannot compare my system with others because I have no experience with anything else other than a box full of chip upgrades. However, I just got my “Excellent” (November 2003) magazine and on page 23 KoKeln is now offering the APMLink per-programmed with chips. I am very interested in the Kokeln chips to solve the just off throttle stumble or what some call a bog off line. I have minimized it but it is still there.
Right now, I have too many projects in the fire, strapped for cash, near to death (wife found Baby’s credit card), have Baby closely dialed in and I scheduled some dyno time to post my numbers to purchase the chips Trust me guys, I will be posting somewhere between 350-375 rwhp. My BF Goodrich tires don’t stand a chance. This car is an animal with this current set-up. The link does take effort to tune in, no question. You must get the serial link and have a laptop. Further, I suggest doing your research on turbochargers and please post for dyno results for us to compare. I have seen a lot of mis-information out there. Give me another week for me to post my numbers. Once you have a handle on how the Link system works (moving around in the cells), count on a taking either a Saturday afternoon or early morning. Be sure to have your Valentine detector in good working order as well.
My main reason for not heartily recommending the Link system is the extended waiting period and as one Rennlist member accurately put it “his 5 year old nephew’s attempt on creating a J pipe “ At best the Guru’s product is a poor quality job that should have never been sent to anyone other than back to the subcontractor that created it. Now that Kokeln is offering the system, I doubt that the wait will be so long. Hopefully, someone on the board is in better financial shape than I am currently and can buy the Kokeln chips and swap them out with Guru’s chips and let us know if the stumble issue is solved. If not by the end of the month I’ll take the dive and report back.
09-19-2003, 04:07 AM
#60
Rennlist Junkie Forever
ewainwright
We look forward to your SAE Corrected DynoJet results.
Make sure you do a couple of runs at around 17 psi or so, so that people can compare your setup to theirs. 17psi boost is a real street, sustainable load boost level.
Take care and good luck,
We look forward to your SAE Corrected DynoJet results.
Make sure you do a couple of runs at around 17 psi or so, so that people can compare your setup to theirs. 17psi boost is a real street, sustainable load boost level.
Take care and good luck,