Alpine951

My car stopped making boost. Car is not stock. I went out to RadioShack and bought an led that has two wires on it. The MAF in my car uses one of the ports on the diagnostic port, the + one, for power and the car won't run when I remove the MAF wire from that port so I can't stick the led wire into that port. There is a small exposed part of the wire for the maf where it is attached to a small metal crimp that slides into the port that I can touch one of the led wires to and insert the other wire into the led port. The wires on the led are very small in diameter. I don't get any blink codes and I am wondering if these connections are OK to have blink codes show up if in fact there is a problem. quick look at hoses don't show any hoses popped off. I have not soldered or crimped any connectors to slide into the ports like shown on Lindsey's site. I just may have to pull the cone filter off and rig up the pvc cap I made years ago to pressurize the system.

Dougs951S

No boost at all points to a wastegate failure. A turbo failure could also cause no boost but would probably smoke or make some crazy noises. An issue with the boost control system would normally give you ~3-4 psi. When my stock wastegate spat the valve out, I would still make 4 psi.

Alpine951

both the stock and aftermarket boost gauge show vacum and then go to just under 1 on the stock gauge and just under zero on the aftermarket gauge. the car accelerates but with not much gusto. My car has the stock wastegate with a stiffer spring in it. I have an electronic boost controller. I have been getting the car back on the road after a number of years hiatus. Years ago the valve did unscrew from the wastegate and there was a noticeable rattle from the valve ratttling in the pipe. no rattle sounds now. I recall that before I just screwed the valve back in and used some high temp locktite.hmmm..

Alpine951

but if the wastegate is bad shouldn't I get blink codes?

67King

Bad wastegate should give you a 3-1 blink code.

Alpine951

I disconnected the line that goes to the wastegate and tried blowing into it and sucking it. couldn't do either. Does that mean the wg is OK?

67King

Well, fiddlesticks. Here I was all confident that my 3-1 blink code meant bad wastegate, so I pulled mine off the car.......and it appears to be okay. So I'm getting above the limp home amount of 3PSI, but I'm not getting anywhere near the normal full boost amount. I'm getting maybe 7PSI or so, and it may just creep a tad. But the wastegate is opening, I can hear it (dumped). Checked my codes, and was getting a 3-1 blink code.

So I'm not sure what is going on on mine. But the wastegate appears to be okay, or at least the diaphragm. Holds vacuum, holds air. Strange thing is that when I had the car out a couple of weeks ago, I would get full boost one good time, and thne it would back off. Happened first couple of sessions, but by the end of the first day, I was only making half boost.

Dougs951S

3-1 if i remember correctly, is NOT a wastegate code, in fact i dont think a bad wastegate will throw a code because its entirely a mechanical fault.

67King

It is essentially a lower than commanded boost level fault. Per Lindsey, it can be a leak or bad wastegate. The manual states "charging pressure regulator valve stuck in open position." I guess that could be the cycling valve. But presumably the KLR has some type of PID and it keeps commanding a closed cycling valve, but getting no more boost, which is does read from the manifold. So I would expect a bad wastegate to throw a 3-1 code.

Dougs951S

ok, good point. Funny, well...i dont know, My stock wastegate literally spat the valve out because the seat was erroded to nothing, but i dont have a CV and im not running a DME so I never checked to see if the test port spat out a code, i suspect it wouldnt since the codes are triggered by the dme, right? funny also, even with the wastegate literally acting as a gigantic exhaust leak, i still was able to make 5-6 psi.

67King

Blink codes are generated by the KLR. But, if you cycle the key off, they disappear. So you have to pull them not only while running, but also after you romp on it to induce the failure mode. I started a thread on it, but it seems whatever is going on on my car is not that common, as I got little feedback about it:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...low-boost.html

I have a Tial that I have for the Turbo S. I could put it on, but it is a V-band one, and I don't really want to cut up my exhaust since I'll have to swap it back to be legal for SP3. But I'm pretty miffed at it.

Don't suppose a dump gate could cause this, could it?

Dougs951S

Dumped gate isnt the issue Harry, my 40mm tial is dumped, can't even hear it over the exhaust though when its on boost.

Dougs951S

if that line is sealed, yup means the gate is holding pressure, well at least it proves that the diaphragm is still intact. Even with the spring literally doing nothing, you should get SOME positive pressure. Does it make boost if you clamp the wastegate line? if it doesnt and your boost controller (be that the CV or something else) is intact, I'd be pulling the turbo boot to check the compressor wheel.

Alpine951

It's the turbo..FUC*********************************!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wife will not be happy when I tell her I need to replace the turbo. will be in the market for a k27/6 to replace this one. not just yet. gotta get my wits together to break the good news to her. Pulled the maf and metal pipe off the turbo and the compressor wouldn't budge. I put a socket on the nut and only gave slight pressure. now by hand it only rotates about 1/4" around the circumference and then stops. I can feel and hear it bang back and forth when I rotate it. dam. just replace a 2-3 header a month ago due to a cracked pipe and it was running well.