Just another 968 turbo...
01-11-2014, 03:54 AM
#47
Not sure it's possible to get away with just a cam sensor to measure both engine position and engine speed...
Btw the cam sensor is held by the bolt for the coolant channel exiting the head.
Quite a nice bling engine bay. I like this twin cam wheel set up.
Not convinced at all that a cab frame will handle all this engine is supposed to throw at it. Not concerned with breaking the 968 bellhousing with torque?
Any chance for a picture with the hood closed?
Btw the cam sensor is held by the bolt for the coolant channel exiting the head.
Quite a nice bling engine bay. I like this twin cam wheel set up.
Not convinced at all that a cab frame will handle all this engine is supposed to throw at it. Not concerned with breaking the 968 bellhousing with torque?
Any chance for a picture with the hood closed?
01-11-2014, 06:31 AM
#48
Rennlist Member
Yes, I had it backwards. Seemed to remember people saying that they ran with only one sensor but of course that would be the crank. I confused myself when I remembered not being able to run off the stock crank sensors without signal corruption. I think this is more a Motec thing though. Pretty sure the Electromotive stuff can run off the stock crank sensors like a few other aftermarket ECU's.
01-11-2014, 06:50 AM
#50
Nordschleife Master
01-11-2014, 10:00 AM
#51
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Lets see how many answers I can fit in to one post -
The coils are the LS “truck” coils, supposedly the highest spark potential available. The ECU is a Haltech Sport 2000. I usually use Electromotive ECUs for track applications but I have done a bunch of Haltechs too – slicker user interface and some interesting options. I wanted to test out the Haltechs capabilities some more so the best test bed is my own car.
No check valve to the vac manifold – the fuel pressure regulator and blow off valve is fed from the vac manifold so you want ‘real time’ boost and vacuum signals. The HVAC system has its own check valve.
TPS was added after the picture was taken
I am using both Cam and Crank sensors. It is possible to use just a cam sensor but the resolution drops and in the case of my set up you would have to adjust the sensor or software every time you adjust the cam position.
To fit the AN fitting in the tank I had to cut the barb off and remove the brass insert. The I actually tapped the plastic to accept a tapered pipe thread fitting, the hole size was just about perfect for this. I added some flexible sealant to the threads just in case. Since this is a max 15 psi pressure I am satisfied that it will hold. There is another fitting installed on the bottom of the tank for the main connection to the coolant piping.
I have been running the aluminum pins on a Boxster race car for a full season and they seem to work fine – you do have to make sure that they are aligned perfectly, I can see that if they are side loaded they would not have much strength and would suffer from fatigue failure. However – you did make me think about it and for a street car it might be a good idea to switch to steel!
There are Lart’s Parts on the car…
A slipping belt is not a failure from debris – is a tensioning issue. I was referring to a PS or Alt/AC belt suffering from FOD (foreign object damage). I do have a stock cam pulley that has a perfect imprint of a 6mm bolt – you can count the threads! I can use that as a case for not having belt covers. The bolt fell off and was trapped inside the belt covers until it was caught be the cam belt and carried up to the cam gear. The belt broke and toasted the valves!
The radiator is the combine unit that I designed with Wizzard a bunch of years ago. It has been refined many times and it’s a very tight fit. Some mods are needed depending on what you already have installed on your car.
The Cab frame is not as stiff as the coupe version – but this is not a track car. Its part show, part test bed and mostly just a fun car. I am a Cab addict and I have been known to driver around with the top down in any weather….including winter!
The turbo is a Tial GTX35
The coils are the LS “truck” coils, supposedly the highest spark potential available. The ECU is a Haltech Sport 2000. I usually use Electromotive ECUs for track applications but I have done a bunch of Haltechs too – slicker user interface and some interesting options. I wanted to test out the Haltechs capabilities some more so the best test bed is my own car.
No check valve to the vac manifold – the fuel pressure regulator and blow off valve is fed from the vac manifold so you want ‘real time’ boost and vacuum signals. The HVAC system has its own check valve.
TPS was added after the picture was taken
I am using both Cam and Crank sensors. It is possible to use just a cam sensor but the resolution drops and in the case of my set up you would have to adjust the sensor or software every time you adjust the cam position.
To fit the AN fitting in the tank I had to cut the barb off and remove the brass insert. The I actually tapped the plastic to accept a tapered pipe thread fitting, the hole size was just about perfect for this. I added some flexible sealant to the threads just in case. Since this is a max 15 psi pressure I am satisfied that it will hold. There is another fitting installed on the bottom of the tank for the main connection to the coolant piping.
I have been running the aluminum pins on a Boxster race car for a full season and they seem to work fine – you do have to make sure that they are aligned perfectly, I can see that if they are side loaded they would not have much strength and would suffer from fatigue failure. However – you did make me think about it and for a street car it might be a good idea to switch to steel!
There are Lart’s Parts on the car…
A slipping belt is not a failure from debris – is a tensioning issue. I was referring to a PS or Alt/AC belt suffering from FOD (foreign object damage). I do have a stock cam pulley that has a perfect imprint of a 6mm bolt – you can count the threads! I can use that as a case for not having belt covers. The bolt fell off and was trapped inside the belt covers until it was caught be the cam belt and carried up to the cam gear. The belt broke and toasted the valves!
The radiator is the combine unit that I designed with Wizzard a bunch of years ago. It has been refined many times and it’s a very tight fit. Some mods are needed depending on what you already have installed on your car.
The Cab frame is not as stiff as the coupe version – but this is not a track car. Its part show, part test bed and mostly just a fun car. I am a Cab addict and I have been known to driver around with the top down in any weather….including winter!
The turbo is a Tial GTX35
01-11-2014, 02:41 PM
#53
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01-11-2014, 11:18 PM
#55
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Some guy in the Hamptons at a car dealer tried to tell me his 968 Turbo was one of two in the world. I said and I have the only 944 turbo in the world too. Real salesman type guy but a liar at that. Must of thought I knew nothing about cars, as I drove up in my pick up truck.
01-12-2014, 08:42 AM
#57
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Some guy in the Hamptons at a car dealer tried to tell me his 968 Turbo was one of two in the world. I said and I have the only 944 turbo in the world too. Real salesman type guy but a liar at that. Must of thought I knew nothing about cars, as I drove up in my pick up truck.
01-12-2014, 08:44 AM
#58
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01-12-2014, 02:50 PM
#60
Agreed. Most seem to overlook that the GTX3076R flows as well as the old GT3582R, with smaller and lighter wheels (=better spool), while the GTX3582R is just way too big altogether for the usual RPM and boost limits of a 951 engine.