Penguinracer

For me that's a dream build Chris!

A quick question for you - it seems you're running A/C with the drysump - is this difficult & what is required to do it?

I've resigned myself to removing the A/C to fit the LR drysump kit - so what would I need to have both. I've ordered the Wizard radiator from LR - so will this make it even more difficult to have A/C & a drysump?
Tim

Chris White

No Dry sump on this one - its a street car and dry sump is not really needed.
To be honest I can't see any application where you really need A/C and dry sump. If the car is a track car then dry sump makes sense...and A/C does not. Visa versa for a street car. If its a street car where are you going to put the oil tank? hopefully no where in the passenger compartment or you will be creating a nice 180 degree space heater that could unleash a load of 'deep frying oil' if you ever get into the serious accident.

If you really, really want to have both - then you need to consider switching to electro/hydraulic power steering.

I don't know if the Lindsey radiator is the latest version I have worked out with Wizzard, if not you will have some issues fitting it.
fitting this radiator is a custom project, hopefully you are aware of the things you will have to do to make it work.

blade7

Be off with it to the 968 forum then .

Chris White

Sorry, I mistitled the thread - its about a 944 S3 turbo. Does that make it better?

Thom

Hats off to you if you plan to run it near 8k rpm and 30 psi of boost...!

Chris White

All I can says is - here is a dyno chart from a 3.0 8v Tial GTX35 @ 17psi. and yes, the 16v will go to 8k if you really want it to, but 7k will be enough for my street car!

I do wonder how many different combos you have dynoed so far? I know Duke has done his fair share and I appreciate his opinion...but do you really think the Tial GTX35 is a 30psi 8k turbo on a 3 liter engine?

Penguinracer

Thanks Chris - they've just ordered in the radiator so hopefully it is the newer design.
Am I better advised to go with the stock radiator?
I'm insistent that the drysump tank is housed in the engine compartment for the reasons you've outlined & with a RHD car this will be a challenge (as there is no battery compartment under the bonnet) but a good racecar prep shop should be able to think three dimensionally & find a place.

The GT3 manages to combine drysump & A/C for optimal versatility which was interested me.

Chris White

A new stock radiator will support quite a bit of power, but it is still plastic which is not my favorite radiator material!

If you are going with a tank in the engine compartment (tight fit!) make sure you get a dry sump system with an air/oil separator. Traditional dry sump systems rely on the larger round tanks to de aerate the oil.

On the GT3 - its a lot easier to include a dry sump system if you design the engine around it! 911's have been dry sumped for almost 50 years. Its only fairly recently that Porsche dropped the dry sump system from the normal 911 engines. Cheap bastards!

michael2e

Can't wait to see your guest appearance on Discovery's Street Outlaws!

What an awesome build!

refresh951

Chris - is that the dyno from your 968 cab? Very nice BTW.

Thom

Except Blitz951 repeatedly said his turbo was a HTA3582R, not a GTX3582R.

I have dynoed a few cars with me on the passenger seat managing the ECU, but never a 944T. I believe that the GTX3582R makes little sense on anything other than an all-out race-prepped 944T engine running more than 20psi, but always interested to be proven wrong. Your 9:1 compression ratio should help.

blade7

Good save

azbanks

Send the whole thing to me and I'll send you $200(plus shipping because I'm such a nice guy). That should be more than fair for the recycling value of all that scrap aluminum.

Chris White

I guess that's just another example of 'Internet knowledge', I suppose you take everything you read on the net as fact - if you took a second to think about it you might realize that I purchased the turbo, I installed it and I tuned it....I would hope that I know what turbo it was! BTW - the Tial version is a little different than the standard version. Tial makes their own billet compressor wheel.

So that means that the dyno chart I posted makes little sense? 400ft lbs +/-10% from 3500 to 6500 is not good enough?

I thought we have been down this road before....I guess you still believe that your 'theory' is better than my proof. Real installation with real dyno testing indicates that the Tial GTX3582 works quite well on a 3.0 8v. In fact it works quite well all the way down to 10psi and up to 20psi. at 20psi its starting to roll off a little at the top end - so I would have to say that it would be complete garbage at 7k rpm and 30psi - but as you say - I would be interested in being proven wrong on that!

BTW - all other things being equal - when you run higher a compression ratio you should use a smaller turbo. The goal is to run the highest possible cylinder pressures without detonation or head lift - starting out with a higher static compression ratio means that you need less boost to get to the same cylinder pressure.

Chris White

Nope, that's a 3.0 8v that I did last year - same turbo, same headers, very similar intake manifold.

The cab is quite a ways off from dyno testing, lots of wiring to finish up and I'll wait for spring so it warms up a bit and the massive amount of salt they dump on the roads gets washed off!