Which coilovers to consider at the KW V3 price point?
#1
Burning Brakes
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I'm debating whether to buy the stiffest bearable springs for my Koni M030 shocks or putting that money towards buying a set of modern 3-way coilowers. I know the KW v3 are great for the money, and for the fact that they are stainless so they can cope with the Norwegian climate, but are there any other options out there now of similar capability?
#2
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I wouldn't bother with the koni's, in my experience kw's are way better, but moton's and intrax are worth considering as well, I am sure there are others.
#6
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Check out Motion Control Suspension MCS. They are the guys who did the work at Moton before Moton sold to ASC. Their shocks are awesome and Lex Carson their technical support guy is very knowledgeable.
#7
Burning Brakes
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@jasonlp
I do plan to track the car as often as possible. Did not know that the KWs suffer from bad build quality. I do have a problem with buying US products however, and that is that I HAVE to have TÜV papers for the car to be road legal. I'm assuming that narrows it down quite a bit.
@Darwin
Yes.
I do plan to track the car as often as possible. Did not know that the KWs suffer from bad build quality. I do have a problem with buying US products however, and that is that I HAVE to have TÜV papers for the car to be road legal. I'm assuming that narrows it down quite a bit.
@Darwin
Yes.
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#8
Burning Brakes
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I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to suspension. I don't know if I need it, I guess I just want it
There are two tracks within reach of me. Both are a 8-9 hour drive across the mountains. Going to the track involves minimum 1, most likely 2 sleepovers. I have two similarly sporty cars, my 951 and a Renault Clio Sport. Yes the Clio is front wheel drive, but it just works, is close to as fun as the Porsche and parts and tires are cheaper. My 951 is in boxes and zip-lock bags and I'm sometimes tempted to just give it up and go drive the Clio. In short; to help motivate me to finish my project, and to separate the cars more I want to make the Porsche as sharp as possible and more track oriented. That way there will be no doubt in my mind which is my DD and which is the weekend warrior and track day car.
Nevertheless, due to the long trek to the track the 951 will for the most part be driven on the street. The roads are rough, sometimes the frost heave is very bad. This means I need maximum adjustability so I have enough range to find settings that work on our rough roads, as well as on track. Also, a new track is in development much closer to me. I want to plan for the future and not have to upgrade again when it is ready) I thought only 3-way would give me this kind of flexibility?
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There are two tracks within reach of me. Both are a 8-9 hour drive across the mountains. Going to the track involves minimum 1, most likely 2 sleepovers. I have two similarly sporty cars, my 951 and a Renault Clio Sport. Yes the Clio is front wheel drive, but it just works, is close to as fun as the Porsche and parts and tires are cheaper. My 951 is in boxes and zip-lock bags and I'm sometimes tempted to just give it up and go drive the Clio. In short; to help motivate me to finish my project, and to separate the cars more I want to make the Porsche as sharp as possible and more track oriented. That way there will be no doubt in my mind which is my DD and which is the weekend warrior and track day car.
Nevertheless, due to the long trek to the track the 951 will for the most part be driven on the street. The roads are rough, sometimes the frost heave is very bad. This means I need maximum adjustability so I have enough range to find settings that work on our rough roads, as well as on track. Also, a new track is in development much closer to me. I want to plan for the future and not have to upgrade again when it is ready) I thought only 3-way would give me this kind of flexibility?
#9
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If I had to go 8-9 hours to get to a track with my 20+ year old car. I'm taking it on a trailer so I can get back home. Also switching suspension setup between street and track regularly with out knowing how to set it up, you'll suffer on both sides until you learn. And this can take a long time and can ruin your fun/enjoyment.
#10
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Stiffly sprung Bilstein Escort Cups would be very uncomfortable on anything but smooth-ish roads.
Since you're pretty close to a lot of the suspension manufacturers, I'd just go for one of those brands.
Since you're pretty close to a lot of the suspension manufacturers, I'd just go for one of those brands.
#11
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I've had to reinforce the camber adjustment part of the kw's a bit, but otherwise they have held up well to a fair bit of track work. I wouldn't have a problem driving them long distances. Mine are similar to the clubsport, 100n/m front springs.
#12
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True, but then why would you have them stiffely sprung. As a dual purpose car I'd go for something that has a bit more contemporary valving. Not that one neccessarily needs 3 or 4 way adjustments, it depends on what you want from the car and what sort of person you are I guess. Some would rather 'Arrive and drive' where others want to extract the best possible handling available. I have to agree with Rod that I had no issues with my KW's apart from the alloy inset in the camber plate that bent. Oh, actually we had to weld something to ensure that the eccentric bolt in the fronts didn't slip too from memory. Best dual purpose shocks I have experienced. Not sure if the 2 way Race versions were better built though? I also ran with and without T bars.
#13
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Agreed on the valving. My impression of B.E.Cups are that they're pretty old school and the valving along with it. Conversely the KWs really do give you a good ‘cake and eat it’ result. Ultimately any dual purpose car is a compromise but if there is a product that narrows the chasm between road and track then that is a highly attractive option. My old car had KWs with 90% of the rubber bushings/bearings replaced by metal, Race seat, Camber plates and drove on low profile/stiff shouldered R spec rubber and ran at least 615/730lb springs. In other words it should have been very uncomfortable. It wasn’t. When people create threads on this forum about spring rates they often discuss anything over 350lbs to be untenable on the road. I’ve been in a friend’s n/a that has 350lbs springs on revalved Koni’s or Bilsteins (can’t remember) and that car is much harsher than my old car ever was.
As for a Million mile Warranty, who offers that? Amazing if that’s correct!
As for a Million mile Warranty, who offers that? Amazing if that’s correct!
#14
Burning Brakes
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I agree that getting a trailer would be the perfect option, but that requires me buying a trailer, a towing vehicle and updating my license to be allowed to drive with a trailer. It will cost me at least 35k and then the taxes and insurance every year. It is simply not possible. For me the best I can do is to go for the best compromise between road and track, or stay at home...
Someone mentioned I should check out other European brands. Did you have any one in mind?
Someone mentioned I should check out other European brands. Did you have any one in mind?
Last edited by bebbetufs; 08-23-2013 at 08:52 AM.
#15
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That's amazing and I'd have to assume somewhat conditional, but an impressive warranty nonetheless.