Jeremy Himsel

Define cheap? Everything I have is always for sale. Even the kids.

V2Rocket

i need someone with small hands to change reference sensors for me...$50?

Black51

Now that's just rude!.......No one's gonna go for $50!








$60!

mudbuddha

Interesting thread...I share the same sentiments with you guys. There just seemed to be more heartache and headache going into these 3L builds not to mention the added costs. I agree that somewhere in the neighborhood of $30K is a good starting point for a well sorted 3L. Even with the a nice build, most of us will not stop there and will continue to fine tune or upgrade the car as a whole. So it's engine, suspension, wheels/tires, then interior etc...Over the course of ownership, I would not be surprise if some of us don't put in 6 figures and sweats make it truly roadworthy. I just put in 2300 miles to AMS round trip to stretch her legs and she drives absolutely beautifully. Just my .02.

Jeremy Himsel

Yeah they get out of control quickly. I could have gone the LS route and saved a bunch of money (1/2) but I wanted a hot 4cyl that "looked" original. That being said, after a mahle piston 3.0L, Pauter rods, JME cam, worked & swain coated head, VR stage 5, SFT stage 2 headers, front mount intercooler, intake, full 3" coated exhaust, charlie arms, big reds, escort cup suspension, CCW wheels, plenty of fiberglass parts, new dash, paint, Griffin radiator, Mocal cooler, 46mm tial, and an boat load of "other" stuff that I forget about...I could have something a lot newer that holds value. But, like the rest of us.....I'm retarded and do it because I love the car... But now I have to finish it.

Hell, it only cost me a few thousand bucks to get my ZO6 in the + 530 HP range and I still drive it every day!

gruhsy

I think my ball park of 50000 is me not wanting to know the real balance....I will still be buying struts and when my brakes need replacing....they are new stock..... then bigger front brakes. But a second turbo will be coming before that.

ME LOVES MY PRECIOUS 3.0L

333pg333

OT, but what does everyone do about Intakes? Assuming most run stock, maybe a few run the LR, even fewer the SFR...anything else? I doubt anyone runs the JME setup? There doesn't seem to be a lot out there to choose from. It is generally accepted that there the stock intake has flow issues, there seems to be anecdotal opinion that the LR one has some question marks over it and from what I've seen of the SFR one it appears to be cobbled together with little thought. I suppose under forced induction it's not so crucial but it would be nice if there was something that definitely suited high performance motors.

Darwantae951

I run stock. Didn't see a need to justify the added expense to an already expensive en devour.

George D

Chris White tested intakes. The SFR unit does flow better than stock. Also, my SFR intake had some internal work done by Garrity. I wouldn't sell my car for $50,000. I built it for me and it cost too much money to ever add things up. My accountant does this for me, and we deduct the costs....it's a company car...

DDP

If you're building a 3.0 liter with an 8v, why even bother upgrading the intake with how poorly the head flows?

TurboTommy

Jeremy;
between your Z06 and your 951; which is the faster car?
What did you have to do to get your Z06 the extra 100+ HP?

86 951 Driver

Damn I knew it was expensive to build a 3.0 liter, but didn't realize the actual cost. Would a 2.8 be cheaper? Just curious. Eventually I would love to build a BA 3.0 car or maybe buy one.

Black51

I think a 2.8L build is cheaper for parts, since I think you're basically only doing half of a 3L build.

333pg333

Derek

If you have a highly modified 8v head flowing up near 250cfm which will rev to approx 7500rpm and going to run E85 at 20+ psi, then I think it's worth investigating alternatives. According to some, running large custom headers with a race head finds the stock intake produces big variances in EGTs between some cylinders on low throttle angles or in vacuum. I am yet to verify this in person. Just what I was told..........

Darwantae951

There are several ways to go about it. Depending on which way you go, could be more expensive.

2.5 block/3L crank = 2.8L
3L block/2.5 crank = 2.7L

Each would have it's drawbacks, budget wise, but both have the potential to cost just as much as a 3L+ build. As already stated, most who spend north of 35K usually upgrade the car just as much as the engine.