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Old 04-30-2008, 02:50 PM
  #166  
2bridges
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Grab you micrometer lart!!!!! - is it > 100.5

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Old 04-30-2008, 02:51 PM
  #167  
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Cylinders were not re-nikasiled, they were overbored to take off the nikasil.
Old 04-30-2008, 03:56 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by 2bridges
Grab you micrometer lart!!!!! - is it > 100.5

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I 'll get me one today.
Old 04-30-2008, 04:19 PM
  #169  
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i'm surprised nobody asked this question yet:

who built this motor?
Old 04-30-2008, 05:16 PM
  #170  
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I thought it was Lindsey
Old 04-30-2008, 05:16 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by nize
i'm surprised nobody asked this question yet:

who built this motor?













Strangly enough I had the same cylinder scoring in my that cause a burnt valve in my then brand new lindsey stage 1 head. I guess even though you can't hear it its there.

My temps were all completely normal just like RKD's. Pulled the head off and there is a hole through one of the valves.
Old 05-01-2008, 12:13 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Kool
So the detonation caused the piston slap? That also explain the HG failure correct?
No. Dteonation was probably caused by missued pistons. If Chris is right, these pistons would have made the compression 9.0 to 1 rather than the intended 8.5 to 1. So, what MAY have been safe boost, in an 8.5 to 1 engine, MAy have been too much in a 9.0 to 1 engine. Piston slap happens when the engine is cold.
Old 05-01-2008, 12:47 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by ehall
No. Dteonation was probably caused by missued pistons. If Chris is right, these pistons would have made the compression 9.0 to 1 rather than the intended 8.5 to 1. So, what MAY have been safe boost, in an 8.5 to 1 engine, MAy have been too much in a 9.0 to 1 engine. Piston slap happens when the engine is cold.
So, in order to build another 2.8L block, I would need a 2.5L block, the 3.0L crank, the pauter rods right? what about the pistons what size pistons do I need?
Old 05-01-2008, 01:47 AM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by lart951
So, in order to build another 2.8L block, I would need a 2.5L block, the 3.0L crank, the pauter rods right? what about the pistons what size pistons do I need?
Well, since you have the crank, and IF the rods are good (are they stock, which may have been why the new pistons were used? guessing here) then you would be crazy not to get a 3.0 block and pistons. <<<this didn't make sense. I meant you should sleeve the 2.5 block, making it a 3.0 capable block.

See, here's the deal.
The reason (other than a new turbo and elctronics) that people don't just go straight from a 2.5 to a 3.0Ltr ( guys like me...looking at a 2.7) is that you can use wet or dry sleeves, in a 2.5 block, with the stock crank and new pistons...and there you have a have 2.7 or 2.8. <(106 mm sleeves like David Floyd)
The expensive part is that for a 3.0, you also need an 88mm crank,($) from a 3.0 block, or a full 3.0 block and crank, ($) then you need head work to make the 2.5 head match up ($) Or a 2.7 ltr head ($) then either sleeves and pistons, or Mahle pistons to fit stock bore (which cost more than sleeves and pistons).

So, from a 2.5 ltr block, you have to address the rod length and pin position. So from a 2.5 block, you need rods, BUT you already have the crank!
So you can have Chris wet sleeve (104mm) and piston (104mm from wossner, JE and some others) the 2.5 block, with the 88mm crank, and you have your 3.0ltr. deleted sentence
Either way, if you have a 2.5 block, I personally wouldn't want to sleeve it to anything over 104mm.
You, for close to the same money, have a useable 2.5 block to sleeve at 104mm. If you HAVE to sleeve, and I think you do, Why not sleeve to the safe maximum of 104mm? The price is the same for 101mm as they are for 104 mm.
Once you sleeve, you'll have to get pistons to match the new bore. You may as well get 104mm pistons. The cost difference, if ANY, is really small.
Add your existing, knife edged 88 mm crank.
you have you 3.0!

If I already had a crank, that's what I'd do.
For me, that's about 1000 to 1500 extra dollars. Then I still have to buy sleeves and pistons, get the haed modified to flow as much as you can, and your basically done. You should have a good set of Porsche con rods, from a donor car, or some custom rods from RKD's engine.
You'll need a turbo and some brains to run it on. You're done.

For those of us who have to sleeve, it's ALL about the crank!
I'm really exhausted, but did that make sense?
Old 05-01-2008, 02:29 AM
  #175  
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actually, i chose not to go to 3.0 because of the increased piston speed and additional stress (and decreased longevity!) that puts on all related components, as well as decreased redline ability, lack of easily obtainable/replaceable parts, increased complexity for not too much gain, etc.

good explanation of what all is involved though, ehall.
Old 05-01-2008, 02:35 AM
  #176  
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He's Lart... he can get a 2.5 block really cheap compared to the cost of sleeving plus he already has the head for the 2.5 block. He also has a 3.0l block from the S2 if he wanted to go that way but would need to do something about the head.

So, the cheapest solution would be a 2.5 block and pistons... or a 3.0l block with pistons and head work.

Karl at Racer's Edge is doing Wossner pistons for a really good price - maybe you should call him Lart.
Old 05-01-2008, 02:38 AM
  #177  
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Here's a link
http://racersedge-inc.com/racersedge...?open&id=6.3.1
Old 05-01-2008, 02:50 AM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by Geneqco
He's Lart... he can get a 2.5 block really cheap compared to the cost of sleeving plus he already has the head for the 2.5 block. He also has a 3.0l block from the S2 if he wanted to go that way but would need to do something about the head.

So, the cheapest solution would be a 2.5 block and pistons... or a 3.0l block with pistons and head work.

Karl at Racer's Edge is doing Wossner pistons for a really good price - maybe you should call him Lart.
that's true I have the entire 3.0L engine from the S2.
Old 05-01-2008, 08:17 AM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by George D
Lart only charges himself $150 per hour, but does 4X the work of the typical shop in the same time. He got a great deal and this car should be running within two weeks with 450 at the wheels.....RIGHT LART? I'll show up for the dyno day in SD when you are ready.
C'mon tocayo, you're getting some good advice from people like George and Chris in this thread. Make it happen!
Old 05-01-2008, 10:24 AM
  #180  
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I tracked his posts back and it was Lindsey racing that built his motor, another shoe-maker. I've had the same problem with these mechanics, Body motion, Paul miller porsche, they all are lousy mechanics. If I want the work done incorrectly I'll do it myself, you bring it to a shop and pay the big bucks to have it done right period. I would have brought the motor back.


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