Another Project started (GT30R, fuel managenent etc)
#259
update.
Today I got the camshaft from webcam and installed it to my car. Befor that I had late mode N/A cam installed with has 2mm more lift and 8 degrees more duration on exhaust...
First impressions......my car lost 50 hp AT LEAST IF NOT MORE with this change.. The current mapping what I have now is not working with this cam. Also I noticed that my idle has dropped some 400 rpm for some reason..
Conclusion:
I just need ALOT more ignition advance with this new camshaft. Its the 274 grind and the parameters are way too different for current mapping.
I also changed the valve springs..the way I did I put the air pressure to cilinder so the valve will not drop when spring is off.. I noticed strange thing there also: Engine did not start to move on 8 bar of air pressure to cilinder.. It just not move AT ALL and the only place it puched the air out a little was the crank went.. So My engine should be pretty tight right now. Ive seen engines what are good condition but they still start to move when you put the pressure into cilinder- usually it presses the piston down..
What do you guy's think am I right here?
M
Today I got the camshaft from webcam and installed it to my car. Befor that I had late mode N/A cam installed with has 2mm more lift and 8 degrees more duration on exhaust...
First impressions......my car lost 50 hp AT LEAST IF NOT MORE with this change.. The current mapping what I have now is not working with this cam. Also I noticed that my idle has dropped some 400 rpm for some reason..
Conclusion:
I just need ALOT more ignition advance with this new camshaft. Its the 274 grind and the parameters are way too different for current mapping.
I also changed the valve springs..the way I did I put the air pressure to cilinder so the valve will not drop when spring is off.. I noticed strange thing there also: Engine did not start to move on 8 bar of air pressure to cilinder.. It just not move AT ALL and the only place it puched the air out a little was the crank went.. So My engine should be pretty tight right now. Ive seen engines what are good condition but they still start to move when you put the pressure into cilinder- usually it presses the piston down..
What do you guy's think am I right here?
M
#261
Well
Im more than sure some of the pistons where up, crank did not move at all.
I also build a new cableing for fuel pump. I measured the voltage and it use to be 12.4-12.5 on the back end where the pump is. Now its 13.6-13.8 all the way to the end.
Markus
Im more than sure some of the pistons where up, crank did not move at all.
I also build a new cableing for fuel pump. I measured the voltage and it use to be 12.4-12.5 on the back end where the pump is. Now its 13.6-13.8 all the way to the end.
Markus
#262
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,059
Likes: 11
From: Under Your Car
Lol, I was just talking about painting my car orange in the future and wondering what it would look like. I must say...Very Nice! I would do black centers on the rims, but the car looks absolutely amazing!
#264
Well
N A cam has 8 degree more duration in exhaust and 2mm more lift. After installing that i claimed to my tuner that it does not feel so quick as it did before, but I got nicer spoolup and more torque on midrange, but I am only quessing that I made less hp@top end.. Still I managed to dyno 402hp/550nm with that camshaft, but I quess I had more power in there before..
After swaping the cam I had to remap it again. some points in my fuel map went lean....
I installed webcam 274 gring and did the oil change. I am going on the rollers this thursday.. will see. I hope that the new cam will elliminate surge problem due to better breathing etc. Its the problem with oldscool engines and ballbearing turbos. Turbo can put more air into the engine than engine can take..
Anyway now that my mods are allmost complete here is the list of things what I have used on my car
Body
Jägermeister orange + Jägermeister decale kit
GT front lip,
968 wing.
928GTS mirrors,
Strosek sideskirts
White blinkers on front and back.
Full Hid conversion to fog-lights
Tinted windows with 25%
Wheels
Porsche 996 hollow spokes 18*8 with et 50 in front, 18*10 with ET47 on the back, no spacers.. Custom paintjob and polishing
Chassi
Koni M030 dampers + springs on the front, Bilstein adjustable dampers on the back
Tyres
Nokian NRZ 225/40/18 on front 265/35/18 on back. They should be good to 320 km/h acc manufacturer.
Interior
Cream leather with sport seat option.
Engine
Fully rebuilded, fully balanced,
Lightned stock flywheel
Porsche 968 clutch disck + porsche 968 pressure bearing
Porsche GT2 pressure plate
Porsche genuine con-rods "RARST"
2.5" intercooler piping
BMW 3.5 liter throttle body
Ported intake manifold
Ported cilinder head + fully rebuilded
48mm intake valves
Webcam racing camshaft with 274 grind
Widefire head gasket
Essex fuel pressure regulator
Garrett GT3076 dual ballbearing turbocharger with 0.63 AR
Tial 40mm dualport wastegate
Full 3" catback exhaust with 3" downpipe + oval backbox and DTM style tip
Tatech 5 PRO engine management (full sequential mode) with VR-adapter using stock porsche sensors to pick up RPM signal for operation.
3 bar map sensor
Pipercross XXL air filter element with 4" tubing to turbo
Bosch wasted spark ignition
AEM wideband gauge + uego controller
Autogauge EGT gauge
Autogauge boost gauge
Ice
Alpine head unit DLS amp + rockford 2*4ohm 10 inch subwoofer + stock speakers.
N A cam has 8 degree more duration in exhaust and 2mm more lift. After installing that i claimed to my tuner that it does not feel so quick as it did before, but I got nicer spoolup and more torque on midrange, but I am only quessing that I made less hp@top end.. Still I managed to dyno 402hp/550nm with that camshaft, but I quess I had more power in there before..
After swaping the cam I had to remap it again. some points in my fuel map went lean....
I installed webcam 274 gring and did the oil change. I am going on the rollers this thursday.. will see. I hope that the new cam will elliminate surge problem due to better breathing etc. Its the problem with oldscool engines and ballbearing turbos. Turbo can put more air into the engine than engine can take..
Anyway now that my mods are allmost complete here is the list of things what I have used on my car
Body
Jägermeister orange + Jägermeister decale kit
GT front lip,
968 wing.
928GTS mirrors,
Strosek sideskirts
White blinkers on front and back.
Full Hid conversion to fog-lights
Tinted windows with 25%
Wheels
Porsche 996 hollow spokes 18*8 with et 50 in front, 18*10 with ET47 on the back, no spacers.. Custom paintjob and polishing
Chassi
Koni M030 dampers + springs on the front, Bilstein adjustable dampers on the back
Tyres
Nokian NRZ 225/40/18 on front 265/35/18 on back. They should be good to 320 km/h acc manufacturer.
Interior
Cream leather with sport seat option.
Engine
Fully rebuilded, fully balanced,
Lightned stock flywheel
Porsche 968 clutch disck + porsche 968 pressure bearing
Porsche GT2 pressure plate
Porsche genuine con-rods "RARST"
2.5" intercooler piping
BMW 3.5 liter throttle body
Ported intake manifold
Ported cilinder head + fully rebuilded
48mm intake valves
Webcam racing camshaft with 274 grind
Widefire head gasket
Essex fuel pressure regulator
Garrett GT3076 dual ballbearing turbocharger with 0.63 AR
Tial 40mm dualport wastegate
Full 3" catback exhaust with 3" downpipe + oval backbox and DTM style tip
Tatech 5 PRO engine management (full sequential mode) with VR-adapter using stock porsche sensors to pick up RPM signal for operation.
3 bar map sensor
Pipercross XXL air filter element with 4" tubing to turbo
Bosch wasted spark ignition
AEM wideband gauge + uego controller
Autogauge EGT gauge
Autogauge boost gauge
Ice
Alpine head unit DLS amp + rockford 2*4ohm 10 inch subwoofer + stock speakers.
#266
Hey Guy's
I snapped a rod last saturday while I was cruising to the dragrace competition. To avoid any speculations this is what I found out
When I did rebuild my block was inspected and as 1st clinder was elliptical the sleeve was changed there. all the other cilinders where honed and treated with alusil. When engine was put together everything seemed as normal..
I did my first 1500 km break in with 4000 rpm and not more than 0.5 bar of boost.
Then I changed the oil and did another 2500km.
Then I did another oil change and took the car to the dyno for adjustments.
While I did the last oil change I also changed the valve springs while I did it I saw that the first spark plug looked a bit differnet from unburnt oil.
Car consumed oil all the time I thought its do to reason that the rings where not sealed yet. While I did the valvespring change i also discovered that engine was really hard to turn around, god knows why.
I totally did around 5000 km with my current motor and during that time i did 3 oil changes. I used Mobil 1 full synthetic oil.
My rev limiter is set to 6500 rpm.
About the "bang"
I passed on truck and accelrated form 3000 to 4500 rpm with 4th gear just 30% of throttle and maybe 0.8 bar of boost. My AFR is 11.8 during the load and goes to 10.9 on top end just to be safe.. my EGT has never been more than 800c
About the block..
After the bang I stopped the car and walked the way back to see what happend. I picked up a twisted metal pice (about 2 cm long what had some code + R (from RARST) so I knew that it was a rod what came out.. Later on we lifted up the car to check what happend. One half of the rod is still attached to the crank and it spinns freely. Piston agin is stuck in the block on allmost on the lower position in the bottom of the cilinder.
I did not spun a bearing
I did not burn a hole in the piston
What happend? Any ideas?
Markus
I snapped a rod last saturday while I was cruising to the dragrace competition. To avoid any speculations this is what I found out
When I did rebuild my block was inspected and as 1st clinder was elliptical the sleeve was changed there. all the other cilinders where honed and treated with alusil. When engine was put together everything seemed as normal..
I did my first 1500 km break in with 4000 rpm and not more than 0.5 bar of boost.
Then I changed the oil and did another 2500km.
Then I did another oil change and took the car to the dyno for adjustments.
While I did the last oil change I also changed the valve springs while I did it I saw that the first spark plug looked a bit differnet from unburnt oil.
Car consumed oil all the time I thought its do to reason that the rings where not sealed yet. While I did the valvespring change i also discovered that engine was really hard to turn around, god knows why.
I totally did around 5000 km with my current motor and during that time i did 3 oil changes. I used Mobil 1 full synthetic oil.
My rev limiter is set to 6500 rpm.
About the "bang"
I passed on truck and accelrated form 3000 to 4500 rpm with 4th gear just 30% of throttle and maybe 0.8 bar of boost. My AFR is 11.8 during the load and goes to 10.9 on top end just to be safe.. my EGT has never been more than 800c
About the block..
After the bang I stopped the car and walked the way back to see what happend. I picked up a twisted metal pice (about 2 cm long what had some code + R (from RARST) so I knew that it was a rod what came out.. Later on we lifted up the car to check what happend. One half of the rod is still attached to the crank and it spinns freely. Piston agin is stuck in the block on allmost on the lower position in the bottom of the cilinder.
I did not spun a bearing
I did not burn a hole in the piston
What happend? Any ideas?
Markus
#267
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,505
Likes: 37
From: Marietta, NY
Which cylinder let go?
Originally Posted by Markus951
Hey Guy's
I snapped a rod last saturday while I was cruising to the dragrace competition. To avoid any speculations this is what I found out
When I did rebuild my block was inspected and as 1st clinder was elliptical the sleeve was changed there. all the other cilinders where honed and treated with alusil. When engine was put together everything seemed as normal..
I did my first 1500 km break in with 4000 rpm and not more than 0.5 bar of boost.
Then I changed the oil and did another 2500km.
Then I did another oil change and took the car to the dyno for adjustments.
While I did the last oil change I also changed the valve springs while I did it I saw that the first spark plug looked a bit differnet from unburnt oil.
Car consumed oil all the time I thought its do to reason that the rings where not sealed yet. While I did the valvespring change i also discovered that engine was really hard to turn around, god knows why.
I totally did around 5000 km with my current motor and during that time i did 3 oil changes. I used Mobil 1 full synthetic oil.
My rev limiter is set to 6500 rpm.
About the "bang"
I passed on truck and accelrated form 3000 to 4500 rpm with 4th gear just 30% of throttle and maybe 0.8 bar of boost. My AFR is 11.8 during the load and goes to 10.9 on top end just to be safe.. my EGT has never been more than 800c
About the block..
After the bang I stopped the car and walked the way back to see what happend. I picked up a twisted metal pice (about 2 cm long what had some code + R (from RARST) so I knew that it was a rod what came out.. Later on we lifted up the car to check what happend. One half of the rod is still attached to the crank and it spinns freely. Piston agin is stuck in the block on allmost on the lower position in the bottom of the cilinder.
I did not spun a bearing
I did not burn a hole in the piston
What happend? Any ideas?
Markus
I snapped a rod last saturday while I was cruising to the dragrace competition. To avoid any speculations this is what I found out
When I did rebuild my block was inspected and as 1st clinder was elliptical the sleeve was changed there. all the other cilinders where honed and treated with alusil. When engine was put together everything seemed as normal..
I did my first 1500 km break in with 4000 rpm and not more than 0.5 bar of boost.
Then I changed the oil and did another 2500km.
Then I did another oil change and took the car to the dyno for adjustments.
While I did the last oil change I also changed the valve springs while I did it I saw that the first spark plug looked a bit differnet from unburnt oil.
Car consumed oil all the time I thought its do to reason that the rings where not sealed yet. While I did the valvespring change i also discovered that engine was really hard to turn around, god knows why.
I totally did around 5000 km with my current motor and during that time i did 3 oil changes. I used Mobil 1 full synthetic oil.
My rev limiter is set to 6500 rpm.
About the "bang"
I passed on truck and accelrated form 3000 to 4500 rpm with 4th gear just 30% of throttle and maybe 0.8 bar of boost. My AFR is 11.8 during the load and goes to 10.9 on top end just to be safe.. my EGT has never been more than 800c
About the block..
After the bang I stopped the car and walked the way back to see what happend. I picked up a twisted metal pice (about 2 cm long what had some code + R (from RARST) so I knew that it was a rod what came out.. Later on we lifted up the car to check what happend. One half of the rod is still attached to the crank and it spinns freely. Piston agin is stuck in the block on allmost on the lower position in the bottom of the cilinder.
I did not spun a bearing
I did not burn a hole in the piston
What happend? Any ideas?
Markus