Your Not Gonna Believe This SHI$$ HELP!!
#34
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Originally Posted by special tool
just to get away from my wife - who is currently entertaining aunt flow.
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"sounds like the wastegate or line running to it is having problems. Also what kind of boost controller are u running?"
Ok, will do the wg exhaust test and line test tomorrow.
"Sounds like it could be the TPS"
I checked it. Was hooked up fine. I un hooked it, gave it a good look then re pluged in and stil the same.
Ok, will do the wg exhaust test and line test tomorrow.
"Sounds like it could be the TPS"
I checked it. Was hooked up fine. I un hooked it, gave it a good look then re pluged in and stil the same.
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Honey, I'm just gonna go play in traffic for the next 4-7 days
Honey, I'm just gonna go play in traffic for the next 4-7 days
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#37
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ToddK911: First of all, 60-1HIFI's use TO4E compressors not TO4B's (unless you got yours that way).
Since you hear the turbocharger spooling LOUD and you mentioned, was is just as loud when you had boost or the same?
Everyone already mentioned testing the WG and it's probably stuck, but did you check the WG to IC banjo line (both at the IC banjo and WG)? are you running EBC or MBC?
Since you hear the turbocharger spooling LOUD and you mentioned, was is just as loud when you had boost or the same?
Everyone already mentioned testing the WG and it's probably stuck, but did you check the WG to IC banjo line (both at the IC banjo and WG)? are you running EBC or MBC?
#39
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Could it be the hose off the banjo bolt going down to the wastegate cracked or some thing and now the waste gate is stuck open (loud spooling noise) and all your boost is just going out the cracked hose?
-Ian
-Ian
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Are you using the cycling valve or an aftermarket boost controller?
If using cycling valve, make sure the electrical connector is plugged. A bad cycling valve can cause no boost, but usually you see 0.2bar
Block off the hose going to the WG, you should get boost (lots of it!!!), even if cycling valve is bad.
If using cycling valve, make sure the electrical connector is plugged. A bad cycling valve can cause no boost, but usually you see 0.2bar
Block off the hose going to the WG, you should get boost (lots of it!!!), even if cycling valve is bad.
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Fast951: According to todd's sig, he bypassed the CV, but he may have put it back???
Also, if you pinch off the hose from the WG, SLOWLY accelerate. As fast951 mentioned, boost would just be REALLY high (like 22+psi)
Also, if you pinch off the hose from the WG, SLOWLY accelerate. As fast951 mentioned, boost would just be REALLY high (like 22+psi)
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Toddk911, thank you for clarifying your boost control method. Many do not update their signature to reflect actual setup, that's why I always ask.
- Block the line going to WG (just unplug it). BE AWARE NOT TO OVERBOOST.
Now your boost is controlled only by the WG's spring. Do you get ANY boost? If not check the followings:
- WG Dump tube when car is cold - if it warms up, problem with WG
- When engine off & cold. Try to manually activate WG by using pressure signal, you should hear WG open.
- Check for leaks in your manifold (intake & exhaust).
- If problem not found, I'll start looking at turbo..
Good luck.
- Block the line going to WG (just unplug it). BE AWARE NOT TO OVERBOOST.
Now your boost is controlled only by the WG's spring. Do you get ANY boost? If not check the followings:
- WG Dump tube when car is cold - if it warms up, problem with WG
- When engine off & cold. Try to manually activate WG by using pressure signal, you should hear WG open.
- Check for leaks in your manifold (intake & exhaust).
- If problem not found, I'll start looking at turbo..
Good luck.