toddk911

"If you do have a 60-1 HIFI, that EVO BOV will not be big enough to vent the pressure by the way."

Do I just need to get the stiffer spring in it??

I thought that Evo unit was able to handle high boost and cfm.

NZ951

Todd,

Just FYI, the Super 61 is a Garrett TO4B, not Turbonetics 60-1 HIFI.

special tool

Stuck open wastegate can be diagnosed in a COLD car by feeling the EXHAUST side of the wastegate. This pipe should not heat up at idle in a COLD car. It WILL heat up in a COLD car with a stuck open wastegate.

toddk911

Lutjen:

Ok, well, it will rev, but not very well. Is that still maybe TPS issue?

toddk911

"Just FYI, the Super 61 is a Garrett TO4B, not Turbonetics 60-1 HIFI"

I have a Garrett 60-1 compressor wheel in a TO4B housing with the 2.75" inlet, which I was told is considered the 60-1 hi fi. Guess that is not correct????

special tool

Not necessarily - could be ANY code. Chec all electrical engne harness connectons to mae sure they are tight.
-knock sensor
-head temp sensor
-tps
-maf/afm

toddk911

"Stuck open wastegate can be diagnosed in a COLD car by feeling the EXHAUST side of the wastegate. This pipe should not heat up at idle in a COLD car. It WILL heat up in a COLD car with a stuck open wastegate."

Ok, have to test that tomorrow. Now I gotta try to get through the night and not wonder what is wrong

Good thing I got that 12 pack

NZ951

Well, lets assume it is a 60-1 HIFI for this excercise... I tried the Lindsey Racing BOV it was not big enough, I tried the stock, it was not big enough, I tried a monster GFB, it was not big enough, even with preloaded washers (though the spring is not the issue its the size) I finally got a Tial 50mm (biggest BOV on the market) drill a custom banjo and used 5mm thick walled tube, then it vented ok. You need the spring pressure to equal the idle vacuum pressure to it stays shut at idle Dont worry about compressor surge just yet though, you have bigger issues!

toddk911

Actually a code makes sense. Which is why I tried to reset by disconecting the bat as it was fine all day.

Then I go out a few hours later and right from the get go, NO BOOST.

special tool

Nothing serious is wrong with your car. If I lived closer to you, I would come over and fix it in 10 minutes for free, just to get away from my wife - who is currently entertaining aunt flow.

NZ951

Well its not what I have, but there are so many possible configurations out there it does not really matter You know what you have, thats the important part.

fast951

During a cold engine/exhaust check the WG dump tube. If it's getting hot, your WG is stuck open.
Next pinch the pressure hose going to the WG, see if it makes any boost.

toddk911

"If I lived closer to you, I would come over and fix it in 10 minutes for free, just to get away from my wife - who is currently entertaining aunt flow."

LOL. I, recenlty, do not have to worry about that. At least not for about 7-8 months I was gonna anounce it more formally later, but what they hey

Jus tcheck connections. Un hooked and re hooked. Did not notice anything. Test drove. Still the same.

How do I reset it if it through a code???

"You know what you have, thats the important part."

Well now I don't !! Dave said it is right about there Super 61. So I guess it is closer to that then a 60-1 hi fi???

toddk911

Also, what exaclty does the computer do when it throws a code/safety mode to shut off the boost??

It obviously allows the turbo to spool, jsut does not let it generate boost. And how do all the aftermarket chips affect the codes and saftey modes???

Ok, gotta grab another beer. no more test drives

NZ951

Well, though names are not as important as the specs, call it whatever who sold it to you called it Do you have the stage 3 wheel? It seems odd to have a #6 hotside, most I know use the 8 or 10 in the aftermarket form... PS you can always measure the specs and look up them in the Turbonetics book to confirm. I did that when I got mine to make sure it was what I was sold.