Things to do when dropping rear suspension
#1
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My girlfriends trusty and beloved 89 M30 944 Turbo will be getting new sills soon. At the same time we need to drop the rear suspension to fix rusty fuel and brake lines in the rear. We had some trouble with rusted fittings when changing fuel filter 15 years ago, so we plan to change everything in the fuel system from tank at least to the connecting piece under the car. Fuel lines will be replaced at least in the rear. We plan refurbish and repaint of the mechanical parts of the suspension.
The questions:
The questions:
- There are several companies offering sill and rear wing repair sections. Does anyone have a recommendation what to choose?
- What parts of the suspension should we get new? We have relatively new shock absorbers, the rest of it is original I believe.
- What parts do you recommend to renew when dropping the rear suspension other than parts of the suspension itself?
Last edited by Ian928; 02-04-2022 at 11:55 AM.
#2
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As for the fuel lines, I just did this project on my 89 as well... I purchased some Gates hose and simply cut off the old, hard rubber lines (using a Dremel tool) and installed the new lines with new Gates fuel injection clamps. Saved myself several hundred dollars in the process. The only line I had to purchase OEM was the small rounded hose that comes off the fuel tank strainer and goes to the fuel pump, but that was inexpensive.
I was also able to replace the fuel return line, but was challenging to snake the new line back down between the fuel tank and frame.
I also took this opportunity to replace the in-tank fuel strainer, fuel pump (with new check valve), and fuel filter. Previously, I also installed the two fuel lines under the hood that have a tendency to fail (due to age) and create fire hazards. The little line connecting the fuel rail was near failure and badly blistered... so, avoided that disaster.
rick
I was also able to replace the fuel return line, but was challenging to snake the new line back down between the fuel tank and frame.
I also took this opportunity to replace the in-tank fuel strainer, fuel pump (with new check valve), and fuel filter. Previously, I also installed the two fuel lines under the hood that have a tendency to fail (due to age) and create fire hazards. The little line connecting the fuel rail was near failure and badly blistered... so, avoided that disaster.
rick
#7
Burning Brakes
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if you are dropping the rear torsion bar housing... you must absolutely change the spring plate bushings while it is out along with any other associated bushing for the housing mounting points to the body. Mark the torsion bars for no fuss or reindex and install 30mm torsion bars! If you deleted the bars and are running a pure coilover rear shock, still replace the spring plate bushings etc.... unless these have all been changed recently of course.
Per parts diagram:
ALL NEW HARDWARE
#2
The bushings not listed in part #4 (trailing arm to torsion bar housing bushing)
#6
#12
The bushings not listed on part #22 (spring plate bushings)
Per parts diagram:
ALL NEW HARDWARE
#2
The bushings not listed in part #4 (trailing arm to torsion bar housing bushing)
#6
#12
The bushings not listed on part #22 (spring plate bushings)
Last edited by kev951; 02-15-2022 at 08:00 PM.
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#8
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[QUOTE=kev951;17976131]if you are dropping the rear torsion bar housing... you must absolutely change the spring plate bushings while it is out along with any other associated bushing for the housing mounting points to the body. Mark the torsion bars for no fuss or reindex and install 30mm torsion bars! If you deleted the bars and are running a pure coilover rear shock, still replace the spring plate bushings etc.... unless these have all been changed recently of course.
yep
I found that an easy way is to buzz off the old spring plate bushings is to use a angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel from Harbor Freight. You can direct the rubber dust into a cardboard box and when you're done you will have a perfectly clean surface to install your new bushing.
yep
I found that an easy way is to buzz off the old spring plate bushings is to use a angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel from Harbor Freight. You can direct the rubber dust into a cardboard box and when you're done you will have a perfectly clean surface to install your new bushing.
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kev951 (02-16-2022)
#10
Nordschleife Master