icat

Absolutely Freaking Outstanding! I've been trying to decide what to build first when we move into the new house in September. I think this thread just answered the question.

AlexE

I am getting tired just looking at all this.

Ski

Sorry Alex ...but, MOMO quick release and wheel on, Koklen short shifter in, seats in for mounting positioning, gauge cluster back in, front splitter with quick fasteners checking it out...oh, and the struts just back in from True choice with B3+ valving and going to run 650# up front; anyone need any 300# springs?

Sam Lin

Ski, did you happen to take more pics of the seats while mounting? Specifically the mounting points and rails? The race car I recently bought has Sparcos in it and I'd like to add a slider rail to the passenger side for comfort, and was wondering if it's a real easy direct bolt-in.

Also, do those coilover perches have a locking ring that I'm not seeing?

Sam

Ski

Sam, the slider brackets mount back to the factory holes, supposedly Porsche specific. The drivers seat has a custom bracket to get the seat lower in the car and has to be drilled.

There is not the standard locking ring, the allen screw(s) are supposed to lock into place; but I think we will get an old style locking ring and put below it...funny you mention it because we already talked about this this afternoon.

Swedeboy

I recently mounted the exact same seats in my 951 trackcar with a friend and made up the brackets from OMP mounting rails - which are something like $40 per seat. The distance between the original Porsche seat rails mounting holes is 40cm - whereas the distance between the mounting holes on the OMP - and most other raceseat brackets here in Europe - is 44cm. We fixed this problem by mounting the outer bracket inside out - as the offset of the holes was 2cm from the centerline of the bracket, this worked out perfectly.

Ski - I noticed you only have a halfcage in your trackcar - although the design of it seems to be exactly like the Heigo cage in my trackcar, I guess it's a different brand in the US. Funnily, I also mounted Sparco Pro2000s in my trackcar this spring. Just so you are aware - if you do mount the front half of the rollcage it will be a pretty tight squeeze with these seats (at least with rollcage padding and carpets it is) and you'll have to move them over closer to the transmission tunnel.

Ski

I have a couple of questions as we gather parts for the engine refresh and LSD install:

Since this will be a track car only and yes we plan on keeping the balance shafts at this point, would you use solid motor mounts or factory?

Would you use a solid tranny mount vs the rubber factory mount? TIA!

Sam Lin

I'd run either solid, or ideally, Lindsey's Supermounts for the engine. Tranny I run solid, even for street.

Sam

Darius Juca

are you going to go to engine mangement system? if so I am interested in your wiring harness the whole thing...

Ski

No, we're going to run DME/KLR with a piggyback.

Ski

A little update: We were going to re-index the torsion bars but decided to go with the Koni 3012 coil over kit from Paragon, 550# rear spring. Jim said the rear came out pretty easy. The two welded "wings" (crash worthiness parts) had to have a bit of help with a pry bar but it just went right on the jackstands. Torsion bars out tomorrow, change all the bushing with new Weltmeister stuff and then back in, await the rear coilovers on Monday. The coilover kit comes with the Racers Edge mounts.

Sam Lin

All in all it's a pretty easy removal - I would recommend you cut off the metal "tabs" on the center of the tube, they're there solely for crash worthiness and make reinstall a bit tougher, and on the track if you crash, you're wadding it up anyway, those tabs won't help you.

Sam

Ski

Thought some might like to see the tear down and getting the torsion bars out:
Torsion bars out with housing and spring plate


the inner part of the torsion bar housing, you can barely see the splines


You can see the worn bushing, outside one bad. The front bushing, cut one side off with a hack saw, hammer it out, install new split bushing.


Going back together.

Ski

front suspension with 750# springs


Rear suspension with 650# rear shocks

Dave E

Make sure the spring plate bushings allow the rear suspension arms to move freely! I had to disassemble and resize the housings after installing the first time, thirty five hours additional work!