Porsche 944 Turbo restomod
04-22-2022, 05:08 PM
#421
Pro
Thread Starter
Pulling the transmission and transaxle to get to the clutch. I’ve never done it this way. I take the engine out. This time I went for the prescribed way to do a clutch job. I’m at the point where the bell housing comes of. So I’m pretty far with the taking stuff apart which was recently ben put together. I WILL NEVER EVER DO IT LIKE THIS AGAIN!!!!
And again I have to find comfort in drinking.
And again I have to find comfort in drinking.
The following users liked this post:
SeaCay (04-22-2022)
04-22-2022, 06:16 PM
#422
Rennlist Member
I struggled deciding which way to get to the main seal as well. I decided to drop the trans after just having pulled the engine and back in. To me it was more straight forward than pulling the engine, which I find more tedious. Neither way is particularly fun though. Now that I have to do it again, still dropping the trans.
04-28-2022, 03:26 AM
#423
Pro
Thread Starter
Great progress Frank!
Love the look of the fuel system.
On the previous engine, way back on post 330, the timing belt was noted to be tracking rearward of a normal position. It appears to be in a rearward position on the new engine as well.
In one of the images of post 318 I can see that the tensioner sprocket is not correct for the turbo engine (it is from a 4 valve engine and too wide for the 2 valve belt), I believe this may still be the cause of the tracking issue. Also on that previous engine the balance belt tensioner pulley was tightened in the wrong direction. It should be tightened clockwise which will bring the upper run of the belt down and away from the waterpump pulley.
Love the look of the fuel system.
On the previous engine, way back on post 330, the timing belt was noted to be tracking rearward of a normal position. It appears to be in a rearward position on the new engine as well.
In one of the images of post 318 I can see that the tensioner sprocket is not correct for the turbo engine (it is from a 4 valve engine and too wide for the 2 valve belt), I believe this may still be the cause of the tracking issue. Also on that previous engine the balance belt tensioner pulley was tightened in the wrong direction. It should be tightened clockwise which will bring the upper run of the belt down and away from the waterpump pulley.
I have replaced the wrong 16V sprocket with a new 8V sprocket (will post pictures later) and tightened the balance belt the correct way.
04-28-2022, 03:31 AM
#424
Pro
Thread Starter
Almost back at the point where I can start the engine. Took the pressure plate out, placed the t/o bearing (not aware of doing anything different than the previous time). As soon as the transaxle was installed, I tested the clutch and the t/o bearing stayed put. Yesterday I managed to get the transmission back in. Only the exhaust remains to be installed. Tonight, I first will modify the heat/protection shield for the clutch which doesn't fit with the 3" LR exhaust. This weekend I wil start the engine. 
05-10-2022, 02:55 PM
#425
Pro
Thread Starter
It's picture time!
Disconnecting the transmission from the transaxle:
The problem:
Getting stuff out of the way to gain access:
Putting it back together:
The wrong 16V (wide) tensioning roller compared to the correct (thinner) 8V roller:
Clearance issues with the LR 3" exhaust:
Everything back together:
After starting I noticed another F'up; used the wrong bolt causing a small leak at the water neck:
Correct bolt:
Time to hit the streets!
Rock solid idle, good oil pressure!
Video
Disconnecting the transmission from the transaxle:
The problem:
Getting stuff out of the way to gain access:
Putting it back together:
The wrong 16V (wide) tensioning roller compared to the correct (thinner) 8V roller:
Clearance issues with the LR 3" exhaust:
Everything back together:
After starting I noticed another F'up; used the wrong bolt causing a small leak at the water neck:
Correct bolt:
Time to hit the streets!
Rock solid idle, good oil pressure!
Video
05-10-2022, 04:24 PM
#427
Addict
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
It's looking fantastic! One minor comment: you might want to safety-wire the bolts for the wastegate adapter plates as I've heard they can loosen.
05-10-2022, 04:38 PM
#428
Pro
Thread Starter
05-19-2022, 01:38 PM
#429
Pro
Thread Starter
The 3” LR exhaust is touching the body at the point where the exhaust goes from vertical to horizontal. Replacing the copper gasket between the downpipe and the exhaust might overcome this problem.
Another possible solution might be putting spacers between the crossmember and the body to lower the entire engine by 2 or 3 mm.
Would this be a viable option?
Another possible solution might be putting spacers between the crossmember and the body to lower the entire engine by 2 or 3 mm.
Would this be a viable option?
The following users liked this post:
AR_Motorwerkz (05-20-2022)
05-19-2022, 04:46 PM
#430
Rennlist Member
The 3” LR exhaust is touching the body at the point where the exhaust goes from vertical to horizontal. Replacing the copper gasket between the downpipe and the exhaust might overcome this problem.
Another possible solution might be putting spacers between the crossmember and the body to lower the entire engine by 2 or 3 mm.
Would this be a viable option?
Another possible solution might be putting spacers between the crossmember and the body to lower the entire engine by 2 or 3 mm.
Would this be a viable option?
05-20-2022, 07:43 PM
#433
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
The 3” LR exhaust is touching the body at the point where the exhaust goes from vertical to horizontal. Replacing the copper gasket between the downpipe and the exhaust might overcome this problem.
Another possible solution might be putting spacers between the crossmember and the body to lower the entire engine by 2 or 3 mm.
Would this be a viable option?
Another possible solution might be putting spacers between the crossmember and the body to lower the entire engine by 2 or 3 mm.
Would this be a viable option?
__________________
05-21-2022, 05:18 AM
#434
Pro
Thread Starter
This weekend I will reach the 1000 km mark on the new engine. Time for an oil change!
For the break-in of the engine I started out with a rom limit of 3000 rpm. This morning was the first time I reached 6000 rpm. During break-in I had to adjust the fuel mappings. This engine runs way better than the previous engine. I'm pretty happy with the AFR I get under load. Still one cell to make a tiny bit richer. I'm verry impressed with the performance of the engine. The 3" downpipe increases spoolup a lot. Stil working on getting the boost curve more stable (EBC duty cycle?). While driving the fluctuations you see in the boost log are not noticeable.
Top chart:
White: RPM
Red: Time in seconds
Green: AFR
Yellow: Fuel map load
Bottom chart:
White: Boost solenoid duty
Red: Boost in mBar
Green: Fuel closed loop adjustment
1 bar ((14.5 psi) boost before 3000 rpm):
This part will be adjusted to get it closer to the 12.0:1 AFR.
For the break-in of the engine I started out with a rom limit of 3000 rpm. This morning was the first time I reached 6000 rpm. During break-in I had to adjust the fuel mappings. This engine runs way better than the previous engine. I'm pretty happy with the AFR I get under load. Still one cell to make a tiny bit richer. I'm verry impressed with the performance of the engine. The 3" downpipe increases spoolup a lot. Stil working on getting the boost curve more stable (EBC duty cycle?). While driving the fluctuations you see in the boost log are not noticeable.
Top chart:
White: RPM
Red: Time in seconds
Green: AFR
Yellow: Fuel map load
Bottom chart:
White: Boost solenoid duty
Red: Boost in mBar
Green: Fuel closed loop adjustment
1 bar ((14.5 psi) boost before 3000 rpm):
This part will be adjusted to get it closer to the 12.0:1 AFR.
The following users liked this post:
Chapman951 (05-21-2022)