What have you done to your 944 S2 Cabriolet?
#526
Instructor
The engine has almost 180,000 miles and it is definitely leaking from the pan gasket and front seal. It looks like it is leaking from the rear main seal as well.
The goal was to swap in the 951 engine from my old car when I bought this car. I've just been lacking proper motivation to get it done.
Fixing the leaks might be the faster repair but the "faster" I want will come with the new engine.
323 RWHP > 208 CHP
The goal was to swap in the 951 engine from my old car when I bought this car. I've just been lacking proper motivation to get it done.
Fixing the leaks might be the faster repair but the "faster" I want will come with the new engine.
323 RWHP > 208 CHP
thanks for the link
#528
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
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loose weight is the best approach unless you want to swap in a turbo engine or install a SC.
Easy ones are Back seat delete, All roof mechanical delete, Spare and trunk trim delete,
But left alone it is still entertaining on the track.
Easy ones are Back seat delete, All roof mechanical delete, Spare and trunk trim delete,
But left alone it is still entertaining on the track.
#530
Freedom Enthusiast
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
My AC belt started whining.
I took the plastic under tray off to tightening it and found that the rear AC mount bolt was gone which caused the front bolt to shear off and the tensioning rod eyelet bolted to the AC compressor to snap off as well.
So I put in a new rear bolt and replaced the tensioning rod.
The front bolt sheared off halfway through the mount so there is no easy way to remove it. It is still all the way in the AC compressor housing and sticking halfway through the mount. With the rear bolt in place and the tensioning rod fixed, the whole compressor feels very solid. Am I risking it all coming apart by leaving that broken bolt where it is?
I finally got around to addressing the remaining rubbing on the drivers sire rear. As you can see from the picture, I wasn't rubbing on the edge of the fender, I stretched that out of the way. It was the inner lip and the inner fender liner that were rubbing. I went back to my old ways of dealing with this. I took a big hammer to it.(I had to go buy a new one as I lost my old one. I have no idea how I lost a 5 lb hammer. It's not like it's some tiny thing that can get lost in a drawer. )
The area marked in red is now about 3/4 to 1 inch further in and I get no more rubbing(and I tried pretty hard to get it to rub) It must have been rubbing more than I thought because the ride seems much smoother now.
I took the plastic under tray off to tightening it and found that the rear AC mount bolt was gone which caused the front bolt to shear off and the tensioning rod eyelet bolted to the AC compressor to snap off as well.
So I put in a new rear bolt and replaced the tensioning rod.
The front bolt sheared off halfway through the mount so there is no easy way to remove it. It is still all the way in the AC compressor housing and sticking halfway through the mount. With the rear bolt in place and the tensioning rod fixed, the whole compressor feels very solid. Am I risking it all coming apart by leaving that broken bolt where it is?
I finally got around to addressing the remaining rubbing on the drivers sire rear. As you can see from the picture, I wasn't rubbing on the edge of the fender, I stretched that out of the way. It was the inner lip and the inner fender liner that were rubbing. I went back to my old ways of dealing with this. I took a big hammer to it.(I had to go buy a new one as I lost my old one. I have no idea how I lost a 5 lb hammer. It's not like it's some tiny thing that can get lost in a drawer. )
The area marked in red is now about 3/4 to 1 inch further in and I get no more rubbing(and I tried pretty hard to get it to rub) It must have been rubbing more than I thought because the ride seems much smoother now.
#531
Rennlist Member
i tried something similar to stop my rear 275 from rubbing. i got cracked paint as a result…and it still rubs with enough weight/acceleration/bad pavement. i'll prob just back down a size on the tire with next time i need some rubber.
#532
Freedom Enthusiast
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I got a proper adapter made for my exhaust. Now the factory header to cat pipe goes up from the factory 2.25 inches to the 3 inch cat/cat back.
#533
Rennlist Member
You still planning on transplanting the 951 motor? I'm waiting on results of a good s2 MAF from someone. outside of that, I'm done. based on my driving habits, my push for boost is depleting. I'm enjoying the luxury of my toy being a stressless turn key affair.
#534
Freedom Enthusiast
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you take another look at the picture I just posted, you'll see a bunch of oil starting to make streaks along the bottom of the car. That oil leak is becoming a big motivator.
I need to redo the front engine seals, the pan gasket, and the rear main seal on the turbo engine before I put it in. There are a lot of little things I need to do before I start the actual swap.
I need to just make the decision and git-r-done!
I'm putting it off right now awaiting the results of the Broadfoot engine build raffle. If I win that, I'll go big and do the 3 liter turbo build. There are a few tickets left. When those are sold, Albert will hold the raffle event and then someone gets a engine built. Wish me luck!
#536
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Last night I was coaching baseball and a ball flew out of the park. Landed about 6 inches from my hood
So everyone was staring at my car. The coach of the other team yells out "who's got the Ferrari"
So everyone was staring at my car. The coach of the other team yells out "who's got the Ferrari"
#537
Three Wheelin'
Haha I had that comment before also. Even the couple times I take it to dealer, the service guys keep telling me they've never seen another one come in. Couple old timers remember one or two but not many.
#540
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Michigan... Grand Rapids
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I'll post some pics soon, but I can't post a cost or they will delete it, as we are not a paying vendor.
The parts are pretty simple. The key was changing out the old giant alternator with a much newer, smaller, lighter unit. Kit includes everything, Rotrex C30-94, mounting bracket, belt, silicone pieces, alternator, diverter valve, belt, K&N filter and DME chip, etc... The AFM gets relocated up front, pull the old alternator, then mount the new one and supercharger. The hardest part is changing out the DME chip.
We are just finishing up with the final tune this week, and have and appointment for the Dyno next week after the holiday weekend is over. I will post some pics and the dyno sheet then
The parts are pretty simple. The key was changing out the old giant alternator with a much newer, smaller, lighter unit. Kit includes everything, Rotrex C30-94, mounting bracket, belt, silicone pieces, alternator, diverter valve, belt, K&N filter and DME chip, etc... The AFM gets relocated up front, pull the old alternator, then mount the new one and supercharger. The hardest part is changing out the DME chip.
We are just finishing up with the final tune this week, and have and appointment for the Dyno next week after the holiday weekend is over. I will post some pics and the dyno sheet then