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Dr. Bob: you have more faith in my fab-fu abilities than I do.
Many a government job has been done by me at work. That is one of the unspoken benefits of working in Maintenance.
However, two problems:
-no SS tubing that I could get my hands on
-very unsure of my ability to cut the tubing in such a way that they could be Tig'd together
Thanks, though!
Jerry Feather: that is a very good idea!!! Thanks!
harveyf: I did not know there was any plating shops near me. Thanks!
Well, I have gone with silver powder coating. Done for the princely sum of $15 by the same grizzled old gentleman who powdercoated the RMB last July.
This is one of those parts that really does deserve an aftermarket SS replacement option. I no longer have relatively easy access to a TIG machine so it's beyond my immediate capability. It's also a bit of a drive to my favorite Industrial Metal Supply store in Sunland, much closer to our old hacienda on the hill above Los Angeles.
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In a Yoda-like voice, a question about how great the other metal parts are that have contact with coolant. If the steel gave up like that, what's been saving the rest of the pieces like the block & heads, radiator and heater core? We are all maintaining the coolant pH >9.5, right?
dr bob: I don't know the condition of all the components, but I am cautiously optimistic. None of the radiator or other coolant hoses had a thick layer of scum inside them. The water bridge, thermostat outlet, and water pump area on the block also were clean. The tubes for the heater core look good as well.
This water tube only had surface rust on it, there was no corrosion on the inside.
I have not yet looked inside the radiator, as it is wrapped up in protective storage.
Now, the head gaskets will have to be replaced. Some day. That is a fact of life. Just not today.
Auto Assets told me the coolant that came out of the Red Witch when they serviced her didn't look too bad. They refilled the cooling system with Zerex G-05, distilled water, and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. I will be doing the same when I put her back together.
Coolant changes every two years from that point on.
Corrosion is complicated, but I will speculate: This nasty corrosion was exacerbated by inactivity, leading to differences between the crevices formed at the joints versus elsewhere. Differences within the crevices, too. Various differences, not just depletion of the corrosion resistant additives in fresh coolant. Differences drive corrosion [electrochemistry references omitted, both here and in my head].
According to this speculation, the best preventative is to get this project buttoned up and out on the road! Get those juices flowing, and mixing.
Corrosion is complicated, but I will speculate: This nasty corrosion was exacerbated by inactivity, leading to differences between the crevices formed at the joints versus elsewhere. Differences within the crevices, too. Various differences, not just depletion of the corrosion resistant additives in fresh coolant. Differences drive corrosion [electrochemistry references omitted, both here and in my head].
According to this speculation, the best preventative is to get this project buttoned up and out on the road! Get those juices flowing, and mixing.
Curt,
I have seen a few examples over here [when we had some] where the water jacket side of the cylinder tops was literally chewed away. I put this down to motors sat idle for weeks or months at a time. Well used and maintained motors do not seem to exhibit such and my biggest fear when I eventually opened up my motor 10+ years ago was that I might see such on mine.
Thankfully they were perfect but upon inspection I found a patch of corrosion on the outboard wall of the water jacket adjacent to No5 cylinder about the size of a dime. We cleaned it up and filled it with an industrial metal repair epoxy we used at work [Belzona] to repair crankcases on pumps and the like. No idea why this happened or what the root cause might have been- but it was a bit disconcerting. Hopefully we arrested the possibility of progression.
I have seen a few examples over here [when we had some] where the water jacket side of the cylinder tops was literally chewed away. I put this down to motors sat idle for weeks or months at a time. Well used and maintained motors do not seem to exhibit such and my biggest fear when I eventually opened up my motor 10+ years ago was that I might see such on mine.
Thankfully they were perfect but upon inspection I found a patch of corrosion on the outboard wall of the water jacket adjacent to No5 cylinder about the size of a dime. We cleaned it up and filled it with an industrial metal repair epoxy we used at work [Belzona] to repair crankcases on pumps and the like. No idea why this happened or what the root cause might have been- but it was a bit disconcerting. Hopefully we arrested the possibility of progression.
Regards
Fred
Belzona is very good, I have used it for thirty plus years when building up intake ports. After machining of the block for big bore sleeves I even used it filling the cavities at the bottom of each cylinder bank in order to create a flat floor and stabilizing the block. The adhesion to metals including aluminum is very good and it won´t come off. It is easy but a bit dusty to machine. http://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1111.aspx
Åke
Belzona is very good, I have used it for thirty plus years when building up intake ports. After machining of the block for big bore sleeves I even used it filling the cavities at the bottom of each cylinder bank in order to create a flat floor and stabilizing the block. The adhesion to metals including aluminum is very good and it won´t come off. It is easy but a bit dusty to machine. http://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1111.aspx
Åke
Åke,
Good to know that - i had no clue how it would perform on the engine casting and figured there was a good chance I might find it at the bottom of the jacket next time I had the motor opened [not as yet]. I felt I had to try something and that was as good as I know about. I have seen holes as big as your fist filled in pump casings and withstand quite high pressures.
Good to know that - i had no clue how it would perform on the engine casting and figured there was a good chance I might find it at the bottom of the jacket next time I had the motor opened [not as yet]. I felt I had to try something and that was as good as I know about. I have seen holes as big as your fist filled in pump casings and withstand quite high pressures.
Fred, it is very important the metal surface is very clean and for aluminum the oxide layer has to be grind off. I usually hit the metal surface with a chisel or something else in order to create a better bite for the Belzona. You can also drill and thread some holes and put screws into the metal sticking up as reinforcement of the Belzona if needed. If you heat the metal part being repaired up to 80-100C it will cure much faster.
Åke
Would you consider that product suitable for repairing 928 water pump area damage from a migrating impeller? I don't have the issue, but interested to hear your opinion.
Would you consider that product suitable for repairing 928 water pump area damage from a migrating impeller? I don't have the issue, but interested to hear your opinion.
That is a good question. It depends how the damage looks. I imagine the damage probably will be a lot of scratches and I do not think it will be a good idea to try and fill the scratches with Belzona. It will be a thin layer of Belzona which will not be strong and may disintegrate. Mr. Brown has a special tool for the repair which can be made with the engine in the car. Think that is the best way to go. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post6849829
Åke
04-27-2017, 09:33 AM
