Igaffz

Hi guys, today I've replaced both front shocks on my 1985 S2 with Gaz coil overs. It all went really well, I cut the original shockers in half with an air saw and managed to get them out and the Gaz one in without removing the upper wishbone.
I'm having problems with the long bolt that runs through the bottom of the rear shocker. I've tried to lock two nuts on the end and turn the bolt but it won't move, I've also tried to knock it out with a big hammer but it won't budge. I've been told it only comes out one way, if that's true dose anyone know wich way it knocks out? Any other tips on removing it?

I've given up for the day, I'll try again in the morning.

Cheers
Ian

mkriete

It took me a several days to remove the rear pivot pin (work on it a couple hours, get frustrated, quit for the day, try again the next day). I have taken it out a couple of times since and it has slide right out (15 mins each side). I found a good dose of WD-40 really helps loosen it up. Also, try spinning it from one end and hitting it with a dead blow hammer on the other end. I put an old nut on the end of the pin so I didn't damage the threads. It took a couple of hours of work once I figured out the process.

I've heard removing the bolt from the upper control arm at the knuckle helps as well.

Good Luck.

docmirror

I bought a car with a fair amount of corrosion from road conditions so I knew I was in for it with those shafts. I got lucky on the right side and came out with some slide hammer drifting from the rear.

The left side went Tango Uniform. Eventually I jacked the left rear of the car pretty high, and put a chain around the shock at the bottom, and secured it forward to a tree. Then I parked my 1 ton truck just to the rear and in line with the shaft. I Removed the rear nut and large washer, and made a pulling adapter from some steel plate and a little welding. It looked like a U shape with a hole for the nut, and a cross set of holes for the puller. I got a 2 ton come-along to the eye hook of the truck and to my puller and put some strain on it. Once I got everything lined up and tensioned, I smacked the shock a few times until it released. Of course there's a rubber bushing in there that might be torn out, and also the Weisach axle has a bushing as well, but some lube and a few whacks and it finally came loose.

I lubed it well when I put it back in and cleaned the holes and shaft well with a drill and wire bottle brush.

FredR

When the nuts are off both ends the bolt can be removed either way. In practice I found that the nut wants to come off one end only, in my case the inboard ones so i pulled them out from the front. Mine came out with little effort on the GTS but I had to remove the caliper, the brake disc and the dust shield to create space for the nut and captive washer to clear.

Sounds as though you have some well seized components so good to soak in some release fluid of some kind for a couple of days. If it is seized that solid at least you can release the nuts from both ends no problem. Suggest you try jacking the lower arm up a bit and the underside of the shock base, loosen everything else. Sometimes these things need a good clout to break the stiction caused by years of corrosion from road salt ingress or whatever much as I dislike such.

Doubtless you will also get some other suggestions.

Rgds

Fred

soontobered84

The front most nut should be removed and the pin come out the back.

On the Stepson, the driver side pin was frozen solid to the assembly. I used PB Blaster front and back and up through the hole in the middle underneath. Still no movement. Finally, I put a big wrench in a horizontal position on the back nut and rested the opposite end on a jackstand. I then lowered the car which used the weight of the car to break the pin free. Then used a pry bar on the large flat washer to pry the pin out.

Upon installation, I used lots of anti-seize to ease the next person's rear shock adventure.

jpitman2

Best penetrating fluid - 1 part ATF, 1 part Acetone. I had no trouble pulling my pins out despite 10 years in UK.

jp 83 Euro S AT 56k

Bertrand Daoust

I hope you won't have to go through all of this but here's my thread on that:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...s-are-out.html

Good luck.

The Deputy

Had a very, very stubborn rear strut pivot bolt on the 78 I was dismantling. After much WD40 and words known to secure my final resting place in he**...I took my sawsall and cut the bolt in front of the strut and behind the strut. Bolt cut like butter with a new metal cutting blade and was narrow enough to not damage any of the surrounding parts. Once the bolt was cut, it allowed me to get the strut out of the equation and that is where the bolt was stuck, for the majority anyway. The rest of the bolt pounded out after a bit of persuasion from a hammer and drift. The portion of the bolt that was stuck in the strut doesn't need to be removed, since you are replacing the portion of the assembly.

928 International has used and new pivot pins...for your reassembly needs.

Good luck,

Brian.

MFranke

Once you loosen one end, and it has soaked a while, you can put a breaker on the other end to turn it back and forth a bit to help loosen it up.

z driver 88t

Pretty much just echoing what everyone has said. That pin can be a beast. On one side I was able to put a nut on the end and pound it loose using a sledge on one end while a friend used a slide hammer on the other.

On the other one we tried everything from heating, penetrating oil, nothing worked. We finally unbolted half-shaft and removed the entire suspension assembly and used a hydraulic press.

Good luck. Not a fun job.

wpgshark

I just did this and I used the threads on the pin and spacers to work it out. Basically you put washers that are larger than the pin on the pin before tightening the nut at the back, nut at the front should be removed already. After you tighten the nut you should have moved the pin the depth of the spacers. On one of mine I had just a ridiculous array of spacers including the other rear shock.

You'll only be moving it 3/8"-1/2" per try but it will come out unbent and no lost fingers.

Good luck,

Lance

MFranke

Really great idea using spacers!

Hilton

I used some steel tube cut into various length sections, and then just a thick washer over the end of the tube, to pull the pin out on the one I did where it was stuck.

The tube was in my box of "random metal stuff", but from memory it was actually from inside an old Boge front shock I hacked up years ago