depami

Well, fortunately no feathers, but boy, is that stuff nasty.







Shaft needed a little persuasion.






After trashing several rags, parts are ready for parts washer.




Cleaned up nicely.




You can see wear marks but can't feel them. I think they'll be fine.




All cleaned up and ready for assembly and grease.




Actually things went quite well with not too much mess. But that was an easy one, we'll see how the next one goes.




Cheers,

Darklands

If the shafts have little wear you can change them from left to right, so they carry the load on maiden surface!

depami

Several threads suggest bubbling the tar out so I threw this together with stuff I had lying around.
I can feed it from either end but don't have enough mineral spirits.
Two gallons or so should do nicely.
I only had a little less than a gallon left from my injector testing so I'll have to get another.
Gas would be cheaper but I don't want the fumes in the shop, mineral spirits is bad enough.






Cheers,

depami

I have a commercial parts washer so I have no need, but, with this little pump, a pail of solvent, and a pan of some sort, one could throw together a cheap yet functional parts washer.

The pump is intended to run on two D cells but mine is modified for external power source. I can still use batteries if desired.




Look at the flow it has!




I was able to run solvent from either end. Actually, I ran solvent in one end and air in the other. Air alone probably would have done the job, but I just can't leave well enough alone. They weren't quite clean enough but this kept all but a tiny bit of the CV joint black tar grease out of my parts washer.




Cheers,

depami

Not sure silver metallic CV joints makes me the Lone Ranger, but that's what I had so that's what I used.








Cheers,

depami

Just blue tape.
Seems perfect for the application.






Cheers,

depami

Second dirtiest job I've done on this car. First was the cross member, engine mounts, oil pan gasket, steering rack bushings.
But really, they are basically the same job, just that this one is in the rear instead of the front.
What's the best way to clean that area up with the suspension and transmission still in place?





Cheers,

depami

With room to spare.
Not really too hard to change, at least with everything else out of the way.





All four at 61 ft/lbs, hope that's right.




At least 1 mm clearance, should be good.




Definitely not touching now.




Cheers,

depami

Not sure where all this oil came from but I'm trying to decide the best way to clean it up a bit.
I'm going to change the differential oil, should I pop the cover and re-gasket?
And what is that thing with the wire in the differential cover?







Cheers,

depami

Is this a vent or overflow for something, or what?
What should the rubber piece look like, a one way vent flapper thingy?





Cheers,

PorKen

That's all there is to it. The flow-improving bellmouth should be hanging down past the opening, covering the clean spot.

depami

Let the flaming begin!


I've had this on the shelf, unopened, for nearly 20 years.
Does it go bad, unopened, over time?
It meets all the specs and says good for LSD.
I put it in my Scat Pack and it got rid of the whine, but the LSD gradually started getting noisy so I replaced it with Lucas.
Is this OK for my 928 (auto) differential?
Does my '86.5 928 (auto) have LSD?








Cheers,

depami

I was going to TIG this but it didn't fill well and I didn't have the right material to cover it so I'm giving this a try.







Cheers,

depami

Did not use Loctite, just torqued to spec.









Cheers,

depami

No sludge at all and the fluid was somewhere between ruby red and black cherry with no burnt smell at all.
Filter looked decent as well but since it all came with the car, I had no idea of age or miles, now I do.
And as long as the exhaust and shields were out of the way, I figured I'd check the rear pinch bolt.









Cheers,