depami

Actually a "Tee" Flush.
Three valves, one inlet and two outlet and all went well. Open the inlet, then one outlet at a time until solvent runs clean. Didn't take much for the high side line but the low side took a bit more. Then again, I flushed the fuel cooler too. Then air for 15 or so minutes to evaporate as much as possible. Flush is solvent based but has a citrus smell and evaporates well. Everything was dry after air. Only did hard lines so far. Soft lines, condenser and evaporators next. I will not be flushing the pump. I drained as much oil from pump as possible. Question is, should I open it up for more oil evacuation and seal change, or just leave it alone? Pump turns well, has good suction, and doesn't appear to have been contaminated. New dryer and expansion valves should be here in a day or two.












Cheers,

Mrmerlin

After flushing make sure you replace the O rings as they will be swollen from the fluid and will leak

depami

Thanks Stan, that's the plan. I've got >>> these <<<, hopefully all the sized needed are there.
I'm struggling over the compressor though, whether I should open it up for oil removal and seal change or just leave it alone.

Mrmerlin

turn it over and let it gravity drain, observe what comes out.
add some fresh oil spin the compressor head and let it drain some more,
see whats comes out any metal?
otherwise if your going to this extent,
I would suggest to buy a new Denso compressor and swap over the manifolds,
drain it and refill it with your new oil.

NOTE IMHO swapping seals on a compressor thats 35 years old is usually a waste of time and refrigerant.
Only you choose what that value is

depami

Thanks Stan, that's the direction I was leaning.
The compressor seems healthy so I'm reluctant to open it up.
Initially not much came out, not even a couple ounces, but it was reasonably clean.
I thought to "flush" it with fresh oil and if there's no sign of contamination, put it back on.
My plan was to follow the below exert from the manual but I don't know what is left in the compressor, or is it not that critical?
Any idea of how much oil is still in there after "up side down gravity drain"?

depami

Can anyone identify the "hollow rotating" sound in this first video?
All belts removed so it's not an accessory.
Listening with mechanics stethoscope it seems to be coming from driver side timing belt cover.
Bad idler bearing, water pump, etc.?
Thanks.




Sorry 'bout the second video, just couldn't stop myself.




Cheers,

depami

Ran without the lower T-belt cover and noise is still there. It took a few seconds for it to develop. Also, after stop and restart, it takes a few seconds to come back. Can't see anything abnormal but it sounds to me like classic water pump noise. Seems to come from DS belt cover but that could just be an echo chamber amplifying noise carried by the belt. Water pump is the last belt contact before echo chamber. If it were oil pump would it "back resonate" or disappear into crank? Pump was new from Roger in 2015 and hasn't run till now. Is anyone aware of bad new pumps or could being installed and not run for eight years have caused a problem?
So what's next? I suppose pull the timing belt and check everything for free spin.
My 2014 F150 makes a noise like that and has for a long time. Do I dare ignore it and run it that way?
Any ideas?
Thanks.




Cheers,

depami

I doubt it will make a difference, but, before I go all hardcore and pull the T-belt, I think I'll swap the rotors and caps side to side. Can't hurt and easy to do.
Then, after that, maybe I'll put the old water pump back in. It actually seems so good that I considered not replacing it but everyone said that was the thing to do.
What about the timing belt itself? Could it have taken a set from being installed so long without running? Could that cause a sound like this? Taking it off and throwing it on the floor should show if it took a set, I would think.
Any thoughts?
Come on guys, surely someone has heard this sound before.

Cheers,

depami

Well, swapping the rotors and caps made no difference. I didn't think it would but it was easy and now they're out of the equation.
I guess the timing belt is coming off tomorrow night.

Cheers,

depami

Could it have anything to do with timing chain and adjuster?
I can't hear anything on the cam cover but could it be following the cam and coming out the snout?
That might explain the few seconds it takes to show up, something to do with oil pressure?
How would one troubleshoot that?
Would it be beneficial to try and capture the frequency of the sound?

Cheers,

depami

Oh wait, that's Morton Salt, not Prestone Antifreeze.
Took my last shower/bath from this thing.
Just hope they don't leak.
Is there something missing or is that gap between the starter mount flange and bell housing cover normal?








Cheers,

depami

Front Of Engine Harness, that is.
Bought a used one a while ago but it was no better than the original.
Since the timing belt is off again for noise investigation, I decided to bite the bullet and get a new one.
Kinda spendy but it's pretty nice. I will need to transfer some pieces from the old one though.





Cheers,

depami

Fits the 928 alternator perfectly.
File attached, change extension from pdf to stl and use your favorite TPU.






Cheers,

purplemartini

Looks cool,

depami

For the price, I hoped it would install itself, but it didn't, it required a bit of fussing.
It's a good harness, but there is room for improvement.