91 GT project
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Had some time to clean, organize and assemble today. I got an airbrush system for Christmas, going to coat the cam gears with DFL-1 as soon as I learn how to operate the airbrush.
Have been working through all the ancillaries- exploded 928s take up a lot of space....
Have been working through all the ancillaries- exploded 928s take up a lot of space....
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From: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
It's far too time consuming to do on a runner, but an individual doing a rebuild will often do things like this. I used to do it often on VW air cooled engines because the porting and intakes were often way off in shape and size.
Looking very good so far! Well done.
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From: Irvine, CA
I highly recommend helping Mark with a project, anytime you need a part, you just call, and whoomp there it is.
The cam gears that were on the car looked ok at first glance but once off the car, they're done:
So Mark gave me another set of used cam and oil pump gears- better:
Since there will need to be a bunch of interior repair, I decided to buy an airbrush for the vinyl and leather re-coloring that is necessary. We figured we'd try recoating these cam gears. I got Mark to buy a bottle of the Techline DFL-1 coating, and started by running the cam gears through the parts washer. Then I bead blasted all surfaces of each gear, dusted them off, sprayed with solvent, and baked for an hour at 300 to make sure all oil/grease is gone. This is what they look like at that stage:
I got an inexpensive 'Master' airbrush rig:
Assembled the hose with PFTE tape, and spent some time practicing on a cardboard box with water. The gun in this kit is a Master G-22- it comes with a single 0.3mm needle and nozzle, so I was hoping it would work with the DFL-1 (which is water based) and not clog. The spray pattern with water seemed most controllable at around 30 psi, so I went with that. Seemed to work very well, nice even coating without any runs.
Post spray:
Then bake at 300oF for 60 minutes to cure:
Post bake (not sure they look any different, maybe a bit lighter in color) and ready to go:
The cam gears that were on the car looked ok at first glance but once off the car, they're done:
So Mark gave me another set of used cam and oil pump gears- better:
Since there will need to be a bunch of interior repair, I decided to buy an airbrush for the vinyl and leather re-coloring that is necessary. We figured we'd try recoating these cam gears. I got Mark to buy a bottle of the Techline DFL-1 coating, and started by running the cam gears through the parts washer. Then I bead blasted all surfaces of each gear, dusted them off, sprayed with solvent, and baked for an hour at 300 to make sure all oil/grease is gone. This is what they look like at that stage:
I got an inexpensive 'Master' airbrush rig:
Assembled the hose with PFTE tape, and spent some time practicing on a cardboard box with water. The gun in this kit is a Master G-22- it comes with a single 0.3mm needle and nozzle, so I was hoping it would work with the DFL-1 (which is water based) and not clog. The spray pattern with water seemed most controllable at around 30 psi, so I went with that. Seemed to work very well, nice even coating without any runs.
Post spray:
Then bake at 300oF for 60 minutes to cure:
Post bake (not sure they look any different, maybe a bit lighter in color) and ready to go:
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Hate to be garbage can diving but those are usable. Slab of steel or granite and some sandpaper and the teeth can be leveled out and then reblasted. Then of course sprayed.
Last edited by BC; Dec 29, 2014 at 12:19 PM. Reason: Spilling and CinTex
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From: Irvine, CA
More ditzels today- Got the exhaust manifolds cleaned up:
Started working on repairing the damaged alternator 'B' wire in the FOE harness. It is listed as 4 mm2 on the wiring diagrams, which falls between 10 and 12 gauge depending on the wire comparison charts I've found. Decided to err on the high side and use 10 gauge:
Replacement 14 pin connector, courtesy of Roger. The pins are too small to fit a 10 gauge wire in, need to open my spare FOE harness and see how they did it at the factory.
Mark and I went back and forth what to do about injectors- Turns out he had a set of correct 19lb injectors in the warehouse, and since no one is lining up to pay $180 each for them, we decided to use them. Never seen a new 'factory' injector before, let alone a set of them:
0 280 150 730:
Started working on repairing the damaged alternator 'B' wire in the FOE harness. It is listed as 4 mm2 on the wiring diagrams, which falls between 10 and 12 gauge depending on the wire comparison charts I've found. Decided to err on the high side and use 10 gauge:
Replacement 14 pin connector, courtesy of Roger. The pins are too small to fit a 10 gauge wire in, need to open my spare FOE harness and see how they did it at the factory.
Mark and I went back and forth what to do about injectors- Turns out he had a set of correct 19lb injectors in the warehouse, and since no one is lining up to pay $180 each for them, we decided to use them. Never seen a new 'factory' injector before, let alone a set of them:
0 280 150 730:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 890
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From: The Heartland
Rob
What beautiful work! I almost have what could be considered personal questions here:
1.) Where do you find the time... ?
2.) Who did the PC? It looks really nice.
3.) Why do I feel jealous you find the time and make it happen?
Compliments all around to you!
Cheers, John
What beautiful work! I almost have what could be considered personal questions here:
1.) Where do you find the time... ?
2.) Who did the PC? It looks really nice.
3.) Why do I feel jealous you find the time and make it happen?
Compliments all around to you!
Cheers, John
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From: Irvine, CA
1). I have been pretty extravagant with garage time the last three weekends, but that's just making up for the prior 4 months when I didn't do jack, way too much day job this fall. It also helps that the University more or less shuts down from 12/19 to 1/5- I still have to cover the hospital but that's also quieter than usual. I also have a more or less- 928-specific garage set up with most all the necessary tools, which makes things move more smoothly. A lift, a good pressure washer, parts cleaner, and blast cabinet make a huge difference in cleanup.
Middle-age man syndrome (AKA, waking up at 6AM 7 days a week and not being able to go back to sleep) helps find time too.
2. The PC is done by OC Plating, in Orange, CA
Middle-age man syndrome (AKA, waking up at 6AM 7 days a week and not being able to go back to sleep) helps find time too.
2. The PC is done by OC Plating, in Orange, CA
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Interesting- the replacement 14 pin connector's pins are all identical in size.
I was wondering HTH the factory got a ~10 gauge wire through that hole. Turns out they cheated, and used a bigger pin on the alternator wire, those rat bastards. No idea what the part # is for _that_:
I was wondering HTH the factory got a ~10 gauge wire through that hole. Turns out they cheated, and used a bigger pin on the alternator wire, those rat bastards. No idea what the part # is for _that_:
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Will go searching for big pins at Mark's on Friday.
Today's mystery: I put the motor at 45o BTDC for cylinder 1 (verified by pulling the #1 plug and seeing the piston...), pulled the TB and the old cam gears, blah blah. Put the new cam gears on, and somehow the driver's cam gear had slipped clockwise a couple of teeth. Just to be paranoid I went looking for my 9226 cam tools to make sure the lobes were in the proper position. Couldn't find them (did I loan them to someone?
) Borrowed Mark's set, and popped the valve covers and here's what I find. (I ended up just stringing the belt and turning it over a couple of times, everything is fine, but this is for posterity):
So if I'm reading the WSM properly, 9226/3 and 9226/4 are only applicable to S3 motors?
That doesn't make any sense, though, as S3 and S4+ cams are interchangeable. I don't understand, though I'm sure I'm missing something obvious (?).
Also, since the car has 163K miles, I decided to check the 2/6 rod bearings.
They look pretty good to me:
Mic'd them with a ball mic, and all four halves are either 0.0586 or 0.0587" on this mic.
#6 upper:
#6 lower:
Here's a new factory yellow bearing shell for comparison. Within 0.0001" of the used 163K mile shells. (Measureed 3 or 4 yellows, they're all the same).
I am disinclined to put new bearing shells in, just run the ones that have been good for 24 years with some new nuts.
Today's mystery: I put the motor at 45o BTDC for cylinder 1 (verified by pulling the #1 plug and seeing the piston...), pulled the TB and the old cam gears, blah blah. Put the new cam gears on, and somehow the driver's cam gear had slipped clockwise a couple of teeth. Just to be paranoid I went looking for my 9226 cam tools to make sure the lobes were in the proper position. Couldn't find them (did I loan them to someone?
) Borrowed Mark's set, and popped the valve covers and here's what I find. (I ended up just stringing the belt and turning it over a couple of times, everything is fine, but this is for posterity):So if I'm reading the WSM properly, 9226/3 and 9226/4 are only applicable to S3 motors?
That doesn't make any sense, though, as S3 and S4+ cams are interchangeable. I don't understand, though I'm sure I'm missing something obvious (?).
Also, since the car has 163K miles, I decided to check the 2/6 rod bearings.
They look pretty good to me:
Mic'd them with a ball mic, and all four halves are either 0.0586 or 0.0587" on this mic.
#6 upper:
#6 lower:
Here's a new factory yellow bearing shell for comparison. Within 0.0001" of the used 163K mile shells. (Measureed 3 or 4 yellows, they're all the same).
I am disinclined to put new bearing shells in, just run the ones that have been good for 24 years with some new nuts.