Ducman82

Let me know when you head to marks, I might be able to swing in as well

worf928

GT cams. One would not expect the lobe templates for S3 or S4 cams to work on GT cams.

SwayBar

In your video at the 0:24 second mark, and using that orientation of the tool, it will fit onto cylinder #1's cam lobes.

Agreed.

Rob Edwards

Got the cams timed to 0|0 on the 32V'r, buttoned up the oil pan, put the front of the motor back together with some of the ancillaries. All ready for the intake and re-install, not necessarily in that order.








Got started on the motor mounts and steering rack bushings, the old mounts were toast:



Never seen them collapse so much they take on an impression of the upper MM hat:



New Volvos are ~20 mm thicker:



Good bit of corrosion on the MM base plates- it's funny, whatever coating they use on the upper mount hat is much tougher than the paint on the base plates, the latter zips right off in the blast cabinet.

Herman K

[QUOTE=Rob Edwards;11920696]Got the cams timed to 0|0 on the 32V'r, buttoned up the oil pan, put the front of the motor back together with some of the ancillaries. All ready for the intake and re-install, not necessarily in that order.

Looks like you used cork? With that much work I would have preferred the

Silicone Rubber Oil Pan Gasket Installed With Tabbed Lock Washers.

BTW; Great job looking forward to your report on the cleaning of the PC'd parts before you install them.

Rob Edwards

Meh, this is Mark's car. If it were mine I'd be more meticulous.

Actually, I have a silicone OPG here, a 928MS OPG, and the OPGs from 2 different engine gasket kits- one from Porsche and one from Reinz. I ended up using the one from Reinz. Part of the rationale is originality, I'm trying to make the car as stock as possible, and the big red gasket is a bit of a giveaway. So the factory OPG is cork, and the Reinz and the 928MS OPG are made of some rubberized cork mix- The Reinz is on the car, but here's the factory vs. 928 MS OPG:




This is the factory cork gasket laid out on the motor, but I ended up switching to the Reinz gasket.



This is all of the Reinz gasket that you can see now- see the diff in the composition? I have no idea which is 'best' (probably the one that involves 30 studs and red loctite) but this will work fine for now.

Herman K

Always good to see and learn about what others do...

But he, I got you thinking

Please let me know your procedures for the cleaning after you get the PC'd parts back from your coating source... I have a set here that I still need to clean

Rob Edwards

Absolutely! If someone would make an OPG with little metal rings embedded around the bolt holes, I would use that. I did my best to get the torques even on this OPG, but it's tough with the squish...

The PC place does a pretty good job of cleaning- no appreciable grit in the nooks and crannies of the one I got back from them recently, but you can still see a little residual coating here and there, deep in the runners:



I have a couple of 1" to 3" diameter bottle brushes leftover from the lab back when people actually used glassware. That plus dish soap in the utility sink plus lots of hot water and rinses.

AO

Hey Rob,

I totally know what you mean about the 9226 tool. The 9226 tool seems to just be used to make sure the cams are set properly in relation to each other. They do not work at 45 BTDC. It's the dumbest thing. I went round and round with this the first time as well.

Don't worry about it. The cam has a woodruff key that can only fit one way through the cam. Therefore if the cams line up to the marks, you are good to go. Forget that 9226 tool. It's completely worthless IMO and cause more questions than answers.

Vilhuer

Most people do whole thing wrong by trying to put cams in 45 instead of 0 as factory intended. Concept of puting crank to 45, installing cams at 0 and then turning crank to 0 before installing belt seem to be difficult one.

It's possible to make 9226 style tool for 45 degrees. It don't have to be anything fancy. Just piece of paper is accurate enough.

jcorenman

Rob, I've been enjoying your posts, please keep them coming!
This ^^^ !!!

I've done a few A/T pan gaskets lately (not 928's), with soft rubber gaskets molded with metal inserts at each fastener. Installation si simple: (1) Tighten to spec, (2) Done.

With a soft rubber gasket without a metal insert, torque means nothing-- don't even bother. What you need is uniform compression, which means first snugging each nut to just make contact without applying pressure, that's your zero-compression baseline. Now tighten nut each a quarter turn, and repeat once more (maybe twice). Half a turn is 0.5mm compression, should be about right.

That's interesting that the Reinz gasket is a rubber/cork composition, I always assumed they were the supplier to Porsche.

Rob Edwards

Put the motor on the ground to pull the flywheel so I could remove the CPS that was corroded in the hole. No pictures, the process was too disturbing.

Had to run the flywheel through the parts washer to get the 1/8" of oil/friction disc dust marmalade off the front side, R&R'ed the rear main seal as it clearly needed it.

Got out the air chisel to collapse the old steering rack bushings. One of my least favorite 928 jobs. But those SOBs are out! The cat approves:

Herman K

So now we are into comparing cats

Rob Edwards

No 928 Cat Content!11!!11?

MFranke

Nice cats.