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Old 01-23-2015 | 12:24 PM
  #286  
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Hi Rob,
How did you remove the carpet/glue? Did you just pull the carpet lose or did you have to use any other solvent?
Old 01-23-2015 | 01:06 PM
  #287  
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For the big pieces on the trans tunnel and along the sills, no glue removal at all, I just removed the sill plates and gently pulled up the carpets. They actually came up pretty easily, maybe 6 years in cold storage helped dry everything out (?)

For the pieces on the trans tunnel covers, the e-brake cover, tool tray, etc, that was just a lot of pulling with fine needle nose pliers to separate each little foldover of carpet off. Some were more enthusiastically glued down than others.

I have a gallon of sprayable Weldwood HHR contact cement leftover from the Turquoise car that I'm planning on using for the carpet re-install, along with a sacrificial HF HVLP gun with 2.0 mm nozzle. Am hoping that's big enough to shoot glue.

http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html


As an aside, I've never tried to remove the door sills before. Stan has an excellent set of instructions here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...me-how-to.html

Here are some pics to go with them:


To remove the door sill covers follow these instructions.


Remove the center pin on the rivet at the rear of the sill,
with a small pin punch push it in, it will fall into the rocker and be lost you will need a new rivet.

Find the the clear push pin along the outer edge of the sill, between the 2 and the 8 and gently pry this up about 1/2 inch or less.




On the inner edge of the sill at the carpet, gently lift the entire edge up about 1 inch. (Nice and slow, to release the medial edge from the S-clips- just hook the sill with your fingers and steadily pull up)



slide the whole sill plate medially towards the seat while holding the clear pin up.
NOTE this will dislodge the outer T-clips from the sill plate. Red arrows mark the slots in the sill that the T-clip heads slide in/out of



Once the outer clips are free the sill plate will come free.


Turn the outer sill plate clips 90 degrees and lift them out of the white sockets. (Black on a '91...)





To install the sill.
Clean the numbers of the sill with plexi cleaner and fix any rust on the rocker, touchup the rocker and wax it.

Have the outer clips installed into the sill plate and any of the inner clips that may have come loose.

insert the tip of the clear pin into the rocker then ,

line up the outer T-clips into the white (black) sockets

Then align the inner clips and gently press the rocker into its seated position.

Install a new rivet.
Old 01-23-2015 | 01:28 PM
  #288  
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Thanks for the sill removal procedure.
Stan too.
Nice pics like always.

It's often what looks like a simple job that at the end is not really with our cars!

BTW, congrats for the great job you're doing on this project.
It will be a very nice and rare car for sure!

Keep up the good work.
Old 01-23-2015 | 01:34 PM
  #289  
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The passenger side sill was much easier, it was held on with putty and double sided tape....

Old 01-25-2015 | 08:37 PM
  #290  
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Heading in the right direction:







I guess the door panel carpet's gonna have to come off too:

Old 01-25-2015 | 08:56 PM
  #291  
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Lots more terrific progress
Old 01-25-2015 | 11:45 PM
  #292  
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someone is gonna have a great car when this restore job is done
Old 01-26-2015 | 01:59 AM
  #293  
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Wait that's really clean. You just did that with oxy?
Old 01-26-2015 | 02:21 AM
  #294  
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Yes, pre-spotting with Napisan/OxiClean, then just run the carpets in the washing machine on cold cycle, yes.

Since it can't fit in the washing machine (bigass foam panel on 1/2 the underside), for the rear cargo mat I sprayed the heck out of it with the Napisan/Oxi solution, let it sit for 15 minutes or so, then hit it with the random orbital with a Cyclo 'gray' upholstery brush :

Before (there are 2 mats, Mark gave me a spare in case that rust stain on the lower one (from the Cobalt car) didn't come out):



Working in the napisan with the Porter Cable:



To get all the soap out of it, I laid it in the driveway and just soaked the hell out of it with the hose, then used my hoover steam vac to extract as much water as possible. Then I laid it in the driveway all day today, it's totally dried out now. (Thanks, Santa Anas!)

Still not as clean as the carpets that went through the washing machine, tho- there's a bit of yellowing around the periphery (hard to see in this pic but obvious in daylight). May try another round of napisan.




[img] [/img]
Old 01-26-2015 | 04:21 AM
  #295  
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Rob you have a Cyclo or just the brushes?

Napisan looks like UK, any local sources? ($12 shipped on ebay from UK).
Old 01-26-2015 | 06:29 AM
  #296  
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Originally Posted by danglerb
Rob you have a Cyclo or just the brushes?

Napisan looks like UK, any local sources? ($12 shipped on ebay from UK).
Its an Australian product.. I linked the US source in post 265 but it may have been too subtle Rob later bought it from the same place:

https://www.simplyoz.com/products/pe...vanish_napisan

Its been around forever - it gets its name as it was used as a soaker for cloth nappies (diapers in US-speak), from back before disposable diapers became common.

Also, stain treatment and soaking instructions on the manufacturer's website:

http://www.vanishstains.com.au/produ...-action-powder

In-Wash:

Top Loader: For most stains, add 60g of Vanish Napisan to your laundry detergent in the washing machine drawer and wash as usual.
Front loader: For most stains, add 30g of Vanish Napisan to your laundry detergent in the washing machine drawer and wash as usual.
Get great results also at 30 degrees- in a cold wash

Soak:
  1. For tough and dried stains: Fully dissolve 30g of Vanish Napisan Oxi Action Powder into 7 litres of warm water (max 40°C) and leave it to soak. Leave to soak for a minimum of 2 hours.
  2. After soaking, wash as usual with regular detergent or rinse thoroughly. For best results on tough stains, rub the stains out of the clothes before rinsing.
  3. Always follow the usage instructions on the Vanish packaging. Do not use on wool, silk or leather. Do not soak metal buttons or zippers.
Pre Treat:
  1. Mix 30g of powder with a full lid of water (max 40°C)
  2. Apply the paste on the stain and rub as needed (leave for max 5 mins).
  3. Clean and dry the lid before placing back into tub.
  4. After Pre Treating, wash as per 'In-Wash' instructions
Old 01-26-2015 | 10:57 AM
  #297  
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Rob you have a Cyclo or just the brushes?
Just the brushes and a vintage Porter Cable 7424.
Old 01-26-2015 | 11:24 AM
  #298  
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Very impressive work!

Looking forward to the end result.
Old 01-26-2015 | 12:04 PM
  #299  
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Looking great! I see you decided to just pull the center console... I think that was a smart move in the long run.

Were you able to make any progress on the intake side?
Old 01-26-2015 | 12:19 PM
  #300  
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Sunday night kid homework, piano practice, and other ADLs intervened. Part of the fun is project management- there's no point in having a running engine until there's a driver's seat, which should be back from the upholsterer Thursday or Friday. Recolor that next weekend, while having the rest of the interior in by then too. So technically I don't need the intake on for a whole 'nuther week...

Mark is also being very patient, fortunately he's not counting on this to be his daily driver.


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