New supercharger for 84 us auto L-jet!
04-29-2014, 05:36 AM
#106
Looks great Dave! I liked your idea of keeping a stock look as much as possible- even with the SC- and the black sure turned out well!
For tires, I thought I'd add that I'm running 225/50ZR-16 BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2s on front replacing a PO installation of Goodyear Eagle P245/50ZR16 which were rubbing, of course! All better though. (Staying with stock alloy rims (928-362-115-00) for now...
Looking forward to video and/or audio though!
-tom
For tires, I thought I'd add that I'm running 225/50ZR-16 BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2s on front replacing a PO installation of Goodyear Eagle P245/50ZR16 which were rubbing, of course! All better though. (Staying with stock alloy rims (928-362-115-00) for now...
Looking forward to video and/or audio though!
-tom
04-29-2014, 10:39 AM
#107
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Dave,
I've been keeping up with this thread with much anticipation of seeing the beast in action. Videos pleeeeeeease!!. Mainly because I don't think I'll ever have the ***** to do this myself.
Anyway, awesome pics and the workmanship is top class. Thanks for sharing.
I've been keeping up with this thread with much anticipation of seeing the beast in action. Videos pleeeeeeease!!. Mainly because I don't think I'll ever have the ***** to do this myself.
Anyway, awesome pics and the workmanship is top class. Thanks for sharing.
04-29-2014, 10:52 AM
#108
Developer
Because there is more air in each cylinder on a supercharged car, each time the exhaust valve opens you get a bigger bark. You will notice the intensity of the exhaust note is sharper. It is louder than non-supercharged, but not unpleasant. Not a different sound, just the same sound, only more punctuated.
04-30-2014, 11:41 AM
#110
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Hi guys,
This morning was my first day on the street with the SC. In Chicago it's 55 degrees, humid, and looks like it will rain. I ran the car at idle in the garage a little to warm it up. I played with the idle to maintain 12.5 volts at the jump post with lights, a/c and all accessories running. This got me to about 1000 RPM in Park which drops down to 800 RPM in Drive, stopped.
Here are my initial observations:
1 I had a coolant leak at the lower radiator hose clamp. Tightened then OK.
2 The car runs warmer than before. I am midway between the two center marks on the coolant temp gauge. Hopefully this will be OK at 100 degree outside temps.
3 The car stays in AFR range of 12-14 at all times. It idles around 13.5 or so when warm. Under full throttle it initially drops to 12 or so and then bounces back to 14, then 13, where it starts to settle down.
4 While the car is louder from outside, it is not an unattractive sound, to me. Inside the level of cabin noise is fine. The radio can be easily heard. On the highway, it was always wind and tire noise which would predominate, and I think it will continue the same.
5 Initial performance impression: The car feels a lot like my 996 turbo. It is fast at modest RPM's but as you accelerate to higher engine speeds, it builds speed and power faster and faster. This means my road conditions quickly run out of space. (Or I might also run out of courage.) This is exactly the feeling in the 996 turbo. As I said I would, I was very cautious with my first runs, and I kept my RPM's limited to 5K. This corresponded to an indicated boost of 6-7 PSI.
6 The car without cats smells different. Before, I had more a fuel smell, now it is burned hydrocarbons I am smelling. Again, not unpleasant to me, just different. (To refresh, I put new Y-pipe, Borla cat-back exhaust, and am running open loop with O2 sensor disconnected from the L-jet ECU.
7 I still am in the shakedown phase, but for a first day the car feels very good. I will still play with mixture a little bit.
8 New wheels and tires next week, so the car may feel a little different then.
Overall, I am very pleased with the outcome and feel I have barely scratched the surface.
Thanks for everything. Videos coming next week,
Dave
This morning was my first day on the street with the SC. In Chicago it's 55 degrees, humid, and looks like it will rain. I ran the car at idle in the garage a little to warm it up. I played with the idle to maintain 12.5 volts at the jump post with lights, a/c and all accessories running. This got me to about 1000 RPM in Park which drops down to 800 RPM in Drive, stopped.
Here are my initial observations:
1 I had a coolant leak at the lower radiator hose clamp. Tightened then OK.
2 The car runs warmer than before. I am midway between the two center marks on the coolant temp gauge. Hopefully this will be OK at 100 degree outside temps.
3 The car stays in AFR range of 12-14 at all times. It idles around 13.5 or so when warm. Under full throttle it initially drops to 12 or so and then bounces back to 14, then 13, where it starts to settle down.
4 While the car is louder from outside, it is not an unattractive sound, to me. Inside the level of cabin noise is fine. The radio can be easily heard. On the highway, it was always wind and tire noise which would predominate, and I think it will continue the same.
5 Initial performance impression: The car feels a lot like my 996 turbo. It is fast at modest RPM's but as you accelerate to higher engine speeds, it builds speed and power faster and faster. This means my road conditions quickly run out of space. (Or I might also run out of courage.) This is exactly the feeling in the 996 turbo. As I said I would, I was very cautious with my first runs, and I kept my RPM's limited to 5K. This corresponded to an indicated boost of 6-7 PSI.
6 The car without cats smells different. Before, I had more a fuel smell, now it is burned hydrocarbons I am smelling. Again, not unpleasant to me, just different. (To refresh, I put new Y-pipe, Borla cat-back exhaust, and am running open loop with O2 sensor disconnected from the L-jet ECU.
7 I still am in the shakedown phase, but for a first day the car feels very good. I will still play with mixture a little bit.
8 New wheels and tires next week, so the car may feel a little different then.
Overall, I am very pleased with the outcome and feel I have barely scratched the surface.
Thanks for everything. Videos coming next week,
Dave
04-30-2014, 12:01 PM
#111
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It shoudln't, especially at idle or just crusing around.
Make sure it's properly burped with no air bubbles and that your fans are blowing the right direction.
Don't laugh, it happens all the time when people go from mechanical to electric.
It also woudn't be a bad idea to install a colder thermostat.
On the subject of temeratures, colder copper plugs would aslo be a good idea (I haven't read every post, not sure if this was already mentioned...)
That would be a Bosch #6 if memory serves me correctly.
Make sure it's properly burped with no air bubbles and that your fans are blowing the right direction.
Don't laugh, it happens all the time when people go from mechanical to electric.
It also woudn't be a bad idea to install a colder thermostat.
On the subject of temeratures, colder copper plugs would aslo be a good idea (I haven't read every post, not sure if this was already mentioned...)
That would be a Bosch #6 if memory serves me correctly.
04-30-2014, 12:36 PM
#112
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Thread Starter
Thanks, Hacker,
I will double check fan rotation. I have done it wrong before. Just put new set of WR8DS plugs per Roger's advice on stock setup. What part # do you recommend? Thanks for looking, and I am still debugging, so that is very helpful.
Dave
I will double check fan rotation. I have done it wrong before. Just put new set of WR8DS plugs per Roger's advice on stock setup. What part # do you recommend? Thanks for looking, and I am still debugging, so that is very helpful.
Dave
04-30-2014, 12:54 PM
#113
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I would check with Carl I guess.
I'm running the equivalent of a WR5DC in my car (NGK non-projected).
Are you sure you have DS and not DC? DS would be a silver plug, you definitely want copper plugs.
I've seen some books say the WR8DC is for 78-82 while 83-84 should be the same as an S4 which uses the WR7DC.
I never understood why the 78-82 would be different than the 83-84 with spark plugs.
Anyway, it's always a good idea to run at least one colder plug than stock. So depending on which book you reference that would either be a WR6DC or WR7DC.
Personally I would do #6 but best to refer back to Carl.
My philosophy is to run the coldest plug you can without fouling them. The non-projected plugs are also more prone to fouling than the standard projected tip and I've never had a problem running the #5 non-projected tip in my car.
I'm running the equivalent of a WR5DC in my car (NGK non-projected).
Are you sure you have DS and not DC? DS would be a silver plug, you definitely want copper plugs.
I've seen some books say the WR8DC is for 78-82 while 83-84 should be the same as an S4 which uses the WR7DC.
I never understood why the 78-82 would be different than the 83-84 with spark plugs.
Anyway, it's always a good idea to run at least one colder plug than stock. So depending on which book you reference that would either be a WR6DC or WR7DC.
Personally I would do #6 but best to refer back to Carl.
My philosophy is to run the coldest plug you can without fouling them. The non-projected plugs are also more prone to fouling than the standard projected tip and I've never had a problem running the #5 non-projected tip in my car.
04-30-2014, 01:05 PM
#114
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Thread Starter
Yes, Hacker. They are silver tipped. I thought I was doing the correct thing at the time. Will see if I can find some WR6DC, but will wait for Carl.
BTW I double checked the fans and they are correct. They are small and don't move tons of air.
I just put a warmer (stock temp) thermostat in the car a few months ago. I guess I could put the old colder one back in, but once either one is open, doesn't it just stay open all the time. 75 degrees vs. 90 degrees, when the coolant temp is >100 degrees seems like only a difference immediately after startup. But that's not the first time I have heard the advice.
Thanks, again,
Dave
BTW I double checked the fans and they are correct. They are small and don't move tons of air.
I just put a warmer (stock temp) thermostat in the car a few months ago. I guess I could put the old colder one back in, but once either one is open, doesn't it just stay open all the time. 75 degrees vs. 90 degrees, when the coolant temp is >100 degrees seems like only a difference immediately after startup. But that's not the first time I have heard the advice.
Thanks, again,
Dave
04-30-2014, 04:51 PM
#115
Developer
The colder thermostat starts the cooling flow sooner, and so the cooling system doesn't have to play "catch up" to get the temps back down. It also reduces the amount of heat soaked into the casting. If you have it, I'd put it in.
I sent you an email recommending NGK BR8ES plugs. Thats 1 temperature range colder than stock, and moves you from a un-projected tip plug to a projected-tip plug. I have found that the 16v engines like the projected tip a little better.
Be careful with heat range numbers - NGK is backwards of every other spark plug manufacturer. The higher number is colder in a NGK, hoter in most other brands. The point being - they are not all the same.
NGK Heat Ranges explained: http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/te...ge-explanation
Bosch heat ranges explained: http://rb-aa.bosch.com/aa-uk/en/spar...ric-values.htm
I sent you an email recommending NGK BR8ES plugs. Thats 1 temperature range colder than stock, and moves you from a un-projected tip plug to a projected-tip plug. I have found that the 16v engines like the projected tip a little better.
Be careful with heat range numbers - NGK is backwards of every other spark plug manufacturer. The higher number is colder in a NGK, hoter in most other brands. The point being - they are not all the same.
NGK Heat Ranges explained: http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/te...ge-explanation
Bosch heat ranges explained: http://rb-aa.bosch.com/aa-uk/en/spar...ric-values.htm
05-01-2014, 12:26 PM
#116
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WR8DS is the stock plug - however your car is not stock anymore so follow Carl's advice.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
05-01-2014, 12:39 PM
#117
Chicago has ethanol - Use that and turn up the boost.
Especially since you have that low compression motor (relatively).
Especially since you have that low compression motor (relatively).
05-02-2014, 10:14 AM
#118
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Thread Starter
Hi guys,
Here are some followup notes.
Hacker, you were right about burping the cooling system. I drove it and next morning I got a low coolant light. Topped it up and it runs at the first mark, like it used to. (I double checked for coolant leaks, and seems OK.)
I ordered a smaller alternator pulley. The SC pulley is all v-belts except the SC itself. They supply a new alternator pulley but it is 2.65" OD. I had been running a 1.875" 6-rib pulley. I found a 2.25" v-belt which should give me 15% more alternator RPM's. That should let me drop my idle speed back down to 800 RPM.
The car is running a little rich under all conditions. While this is nice in terms of engine safety, I think I will try to back it down a little from 12.5 AFR's at steady state throttle, to 13-13.5. I will experiment this weekend.
BTW, the pavement here will probably dry out from the rains by Saturday, so I may be able to push the car a little.
Best of luck,
Dave
Here are some followup notes.
Hacker, you were right about burping the cooling system. I drove it and next morning I got a low coolant light. Topped it up and it runs at the first mark, like it used to. (I double checked for coolant leaks, and seems OK.)
I ordered a smaller alternator pulley. The SC pulley is all v-belts except the SC itself. They supply a new alternator pulley but it is 2.65" OD. I had been running a 1.875" 6-rib pulley. I found a 2.25" v-belt which should give me 15% more alternator RPM's. That should let me drop my idle speed back down to 800 RPM.
The car is running a little rich under all conditions. While this is nice in terms of engine safety, I think I will try to back it down a little from 12.5 AFR's at steady state throttle, to 13-13.5. I will experiment this weekend.
BTW, the pavement here will probably dry out from the rains by Saturday, so I may be able to push the car a little.
Best of luck,
Dave
05-03-2014, 09:37 AM
#119
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi guys,
I had a minor setback yesterday. I smelled fuel and looked under the hood. My new fuel pressure regulator, that responds to boost, was leaking fuel. It was dripping 4-5 drops per second. I shut everything off, and thanked my luck stars I didn't have a fire. The regulator is made be Bell Engineering, owned by Corky Belll, the guy who literally wrote the book on supercharging.
Anyway, I called Carl, and he said he would express mail me a new one today. He will send the old one back for analysis to Bell. He thinks the diaphragm cracked. He had seen it before, but the vast majority of these devices were extremely reliable. It's a pretty easy job to swap it out.
Again, I was lucky.
Thanks,
Dave
I had a minor setback yesterday. I smelled fuel and looked under the hood. My new fuel pressure regulator, that responds to boost, was leaking fuel. It was dripping 4-5 drops per second. I shut everything off, and thanked my luck stars I didn't have a fire. The regulator is made be Bell Engineering, owned by Corky Belll, the guy who literally wrote the book on supercharging.
Anyway, I called Carl, and he said he would express mail me a new one today. He will send the old one back for analysis to Bell. He thinks the diaphragm cracked. He had seen it before, but the vast majority of these devices were extremely reliable. It's a pretty easy job to swap it out.
Again, I was lucky.
Thanks,
Dave
05-03-2014, 08:40 PM
#120
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Got the new FPR today (Thanks for the great service, Carl.). Popped it in and all is OK. I will watch it closely for a while before I trust it for longer drives. I will go back to minor mixture tweaking and see how it goes. Overall, I am pretty close to finished and content.
Will try to get videos soon.
Dave
Will try to get videos soon.
Dave