New supercharger for 84 us auto L-jet!
#91
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+1 on unplugging the O2 sensor on an L-Jet car. Measure the air/fuel mixture before and after and see which one runs richer. Run this test AFTER THE ENGINE IS WARMED UP AND UNDER LOAD. Without the O2 sensor, most L-Jets should run richer.
The reason for open / closed loop switch is temperature dependent. A cold vehicle has a cold O2 sensor, which will not accurately output the correct voltage to the ECU. Therefore, the engine runs on a a base map (open loop) until the O2 sensor has heated up (somewhere around 600F) then it switches to closed loop MODE (which involves the O2 sensor) for the rest of the time the engine is running.
Disconnect the O2 sensor, and the system has to go back to Open Loop and run the "safe" and rich base fuel map. Which happens to be a good thing for supercharged cars.
This recommendation is unique to L-Jet cars. I DO NOT recommend this for K-Jet or LH-Jet cars.
The reason for open / closed loop switch is temperature dependent. A cold vehicle has a cold O2 sensor, which will not accurately output the correct voltage to the ECU. Therefore, the engine runs on a a base map (open loop) until the O2 sensor has heated up (somewhere around 600F) then it switches to closed loop MODE (which involves the O2 sensor) for the rest of the time the engine is running.
Disconnect the O2 sensor, and the system has to go back to Open Loop and run the "safe" and rich base fuel map. Which happens to be a good thing for supercharged cars.
This recommendation is unique to L-Jet cars. I DO NOT recommend this for K-Jet or LH-Jet cars.
#92
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Thanks to you, I tried to address the hot dipstick problem. I found a $10 dipstick on Amazon that I cut down and marked to match the stock, and Carl's replacement stick. It is more flexible, seals great, and the longer handle puts it within easy reach for pulling. You still need to insert by feel, but it is way easier. The part is:
The pictures explain. Top is stock, middle is Carl's, bottom is from Amazon.
Thanks,
Dave
Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 04-25-2014 at 11:45 PM.
#94
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Thanks so much, Karl. I am pretty sure my intercooler will arrive at my home tomorrow. I told my son I just have to drop it in. In reality, it will take a little while to carefully fit it. Then I plan to pull it, along with the long silver air intake tube, so I can paint it satin black. I am looking to have it look vaguely like the stock air intake tubes, with the spider and the SC being matching sand cast aluminum finish. I know it sounds silly, but I want the install to look "factory-plausible".
Again, thanks, Karl.
Dave
Again, thanks, Karl.
Dave
#95
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Thanks so much, Karl. I am pretty sure my intercooler will arrive at my home tomorrow. I told my son I just have to drop it in. In reality, it will take a little while to carefully fit it. Then I plan to pull it, along with the long silver air intake tube, so I can paint it satin black. I am looking to have it look vaguely like the stock air intake tubes, with the spider and the SC being matching sand cast aluminum finish. I know it sounds silly, but I want the install to look "factory-plausible".
Again, thanks, Karl.
Dave
Again, thanks, Karl.
Dave
Would have been great to have an acceleration video comparison. (before SC and after, with full view of the road and gauges plus good audio)
I would imagine for model year '84 an automatic would be the better choice of trans-axle when SCing.
Probably much quicker.
Last edited by The Fixer; 04-26-2014 at 01:29 AM.
#96
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Hi guys,
Well I finally got my intercooler, and it's a beauty. Thanks Carl, for sending it express to me. As usual, it only fits well one particular way. I just took some time to find it. I finally got it all mocked up, testing hood clearance and clearance to the fuel cooler. It all looks good, but we are talking 1/16's of inches here or there. I pulled the shiney silver parts that I wanted to paint black, and treated them to Eastwood's 2-part 2K ceramic underhood, high temp primer and low luster black paint. I am letting them cure for a day or two, and then they will go back in.
I did tension my SC belt, and ran it open to the first elbow. It is one heck of a leafblower! I also gave it 8 quarts of Royal Purple 20W-50, just for good luck.
New pictures soon, then I'll try to post a You tube link with the help of my son.
Thanks for watching and have a great weekend,
Dave
Well I finally got my intercooler, and it's a beauty. Thanks Carl, for sending it express to me. As usual, it only fits well one particular way. I just took some time to find it. I finally got it all mocked up, testing hood clearance and clearance to the fuel cooler. It all looks good, but we are talking 1/16's of inches here or there. I pulled the shiney silver parts that I wanted to paint black, and treated them to Eastwood's 2-part 2K ceramic underhood, high temp primer and low luster black paint. I am letting them cure for a day or two, and then they will go back in.
I did tension my SC belt, and ran it open to the first elbow. It is one heck of a leafblower! I also gave it 8 quarts of Royal Purple 20W-50, just for good luck.
New pictures soon, then I'll try to post a You tube link with the help of my son.
Thanks for watching and have a great weekend,
Dave
#97
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Hi again,
Well my paint cured overnight, and I put things back together. I think the black paint gives an understated look to the install. The first pic shows my SC belt tensioner. It's a clothesline hook and a cable clamp. You can hook over idler pulley shaft and SC bracket, tighten, then secure bolts in place, (then remove tensioner).
Then other pictures show the install complete on the topside, and finally the cold air intake.
Hope to finish my liquid lines for the IC today then run it a little.
Thanks for watching,
Dave
Well my paint cured overnight, and I put things back together. I think the black paint gives an understated look to the install. The first pic shows my SC belt tensioner. It's a clothesline hook and a cable clamp. You can hook over idler pulley shaft and SC bracket, tighten, then secure bolts in place, (then remove tensioner).
Then other pictures show the install complete on the topside, and finally the cold air intake.
Hope to finish my liquid lines for the IC today then run it a little.
Thanks for watching,
Dave
#99
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Maybe!
I finished my IC plumbing and turned the pump on to purge air out of system. I think it will by fine but I have a leak where I tapped into the windshield wash tank filler hose. I think the 30 year old rubber will not seal properly. I will try to pick up some 1" I.D. water hose tomorrow.
Today I rev'ed the engine to 4000 RPM in Park, and saw 6 PSI indicated and AFR 0f 11-12. That's about all I will do today, until I get the car down onto its wheels.
Picture shows leaking area, on top, right hose clamp.
I finished my IC plumbing and turned the pump on to purge air out of system. I think it will by fine but I have a leak where I tapped into the windshield wash tank filler hose. I think the 30 year old rubber will not seal properly. I will try to pick up some 1" I.D. water hose tomorrow.
Today I rev'ed the engine to 4000 RPM in Park, and saw 6 PSI indicated and AFR 0f 11-12. That's about all I will do today, until I get the car down onto its wheels.
Picture shows leaking area, on top, right hose clamp.
#100
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Hi Dave,
The install looks great. Nice neat job. I like your idea to paint the intercooler and intake parts.
A couple of thoughts.
The hose for the fluid filler to reservoir was hard for me to find a replacement. If I remember right, the 1" hose didn't fit or I couldn't find it. Either way, my solution was to take the neck over to my local parts store and they let me walk around in the back to find a radiator hose that was the right diameter and had a straight section that was long enough. It is a little big, but works OK.
On your cooler in the left front wheel well, mine is installed with the fan toward the tire. I noticed in your photo it is the other way. Maybe it doesn't make a difference, just wire the fan to push instead of pull, but wanted to point it out. I like having the fan between the tire and cooler as I think the fan is easier/cheaper to replace if there is any damage.
Best of luck with the first run!
The install looks great. Nice neat job. I like your idea to paint the intercooler and intake parts.
A couple of thoughts.
The hose for the fluid filler to reservoir was hard for me to find a replacement. If I remember right, the 1" hose didn't fit or I couldn't find it. Either way, my solution was to take the neck over to my local parts store and they let me walk around in the back to find a radiator hose that was the right diameter and had a straight section that was long enough. It is a little big, but works OK.
On your cooler in the left front wheel well, mine is installed with the fan toward the tire. I noticed in your photo it is the other way. Maybe it doesn't make a difference, just wire the fan to push instead of pull, but wanted to point it out. I like having the fan between the tire and cooler as I think the fan is easier/cheaper to replace if there is any damage.
Best of luck with the first run!
#101
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Thanks, Dave.
I actually ordered a new filler neck for the WS washer. I will see what I can find to fit it when it comes. The Permacool website says to use the fan as a pusher. I thought that pushing from the front would be better than pushing from the back. Not sure if that is right, but that's how I did it. Probably either would work.
Thanks for looking and helping along the way.
Dave
I actually ordered a new filler neck for the WS washer. I will see what I can find to fit it when it comes. The Permacool website says to use the fan as a pusher. I thought that pushing from the front would be better than pushing from the back. Not sure if that is right, but that's how I did it. Probably either would work.
Thanks for looking and helping along the way.
Dave
#102
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I found a 1" ID x 3" long silicone hose coupling that should fit. We will see. I can obviously drive the car like it is, but it's more fun to have it complete. Oh. well.
Dave
Dave
#103
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I need new tires anyway, so I bought a set of 5-spoke Panamera wheels off ebay. I had my son photoshop Fsharp9's picture of his car to my color. I will go with his combo of 225 40 and 265 35 Conti DW's as well. Thanks for the advice and the source picture!
PS I decided to go with 235's in front. The tire guy said load capacity was safer for this car.
Dave
PS I decided to go with 235's in front. The tire guy said load capacity was safer for this car.
Dave
Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 04-28-2014 at 09:20 PM. Reason: new info
#105
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Well I just put the wheels back on (old manhole covers and 9 year old tires). I fixed the leak at my windshield filler neck hose by moving the hose clamp to a better position. I had to set my idle to 900 RPM to keep my voltage up with fans, pump, lights and a/c on. I will not be able to drive the car until Wednesday morning, and then I will take some cautious runs, while watching all my gauges.
It sounds excellent, maybe a little louder than before with my leaking cat and rear muffler, but more solid. The weather is a little cold and rainy for spirited runs but we will see soon enough how it does.
Picture shows the 928MS sticker on the SC. Will put the factory metal foil stickers on after the paint cures a little more. I really have to thanks Carl for all his support and such a well thought out product.
Thanks for all the encouragement,
Dave
It sounds excellent, maybe a little louder than before with my leaking cat and rear muffler, but more solid. The weather is a little cold and rainy for spirited runs but we will see soon enough how it does.
Picture shows the 928MS sticker on the SC. Will put the factory metal foil stickers on after the paint cures a little more. I really have to thanks Carl for all his support and such a well thought out product.
Thanks for all the encouragement,
Dave
Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 04-28-2014 at 09:42 PM.