j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

I forgot to show a picture of the SC pulley. It is metal sculpture, and large. Crocodile Dundee would say "Now that's a pulley."

yaskota

Um... Which one is it? (lol/JK)

Looking good Dave. Looking forward to some pictures/audio/video of the completed project!

Landseer

Dave,
On the use of the windshield washer reservoir, I assume you got the carbon steel nipples out of the inlet line to the reservoir so it won't be fouled by rust?

Really like the way this kit looks. Great updates! Am looking forward to hearing about how it transforms the car.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Thanks, Chris. I did that several years ago, due to reading on RL. I am going to install fans today and fire up the engine. It's been 2-3 weeks and lots of new parts, so it's always a concern that it will start and run properly. Still waiting on replacement intercooler, but that gives me some time to take care of small details. If I had the IC I might be rushing to finish out of excitement. Carl, you are so clever!
Thanks,
Dave

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Hi guys,
It lives! I got the radiator back in and the car started in about 2 seconds. No SC belt, so I am just back to baseline except new Y-pipe, Borla cat back, plugs, injector hoses, disconnected O2 sensor and bypassed thermo-time switch. She seems fine, I need to set idle speed, mixture and timing, but it's not bad for starters. I am still filling up the coolant, and I have a fault in my wiring of the new radiator puller fans: they run all the time, even ignition off. I'll need to trouble shoot that,but I will figure it out.
Still waiting on my intercooler, which Carl said arrived at his shop damaged in shipping, so I am waiting for replacement. Tomorrow I will tune up a few details, then clean up a little.
Will post pictures later,
Thanks,
Dave

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

It lives! iPhone picture, note the temporary air filter.
Dave

antsmands

Everything is coming together nicely Dave! Thanks for posting your progress!

Carl Fausett

Dave, just got off the phone with Bell Intercooler. They hope to ship your replacement intercooler to me tomorrow.

I'm sorry the first one was dented in shipping - but glad we saw it before we sent it on to you.

Carl

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Thanks, Carl. I'd rather have things right, than fast and wrong. No problem, I have a few more items to button up.
I mocked up my intake with duct and filter in place. Looks good to me.
Thanks for watching,
Dave

dlagerstrom

Hi Dave,

Curious about this statement, 'disconnected O2 sensor '

I am installing the same kit on my '82 L-Jet and am trying to figure out if I need the O2 sensor any more or if I can use that bung for the wideband sensor/gauge. Does the O2 sensor help the L-Jet?

Thanks,
-Dave

robot808

Dave, I spoke to Carl about that same thing last week. He said, to try it with and without. Go with whichever way it runs richer. He said in 8 out of 10 cars it'll be without the 02 sensor, but the best thing is to try it both ways.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Dave, Bob, that makes sense. The ECU will try to correct the fuel mixture if an O2 sensor is connected. If you are trying to make alterations in the mixture, the ECU might try to reverse them and put back to what it thinks is correct. Without the O2 sensor, you have some ability to change the mix to your liking.
That's how I understand it, anyway. I will see, since I still have my OEM O2 sensor in place but not connected.
Thanks,
Dave

dlagerstrom

Thanks Bob and Dave. I guess I will get the extra bung welded in.

Cheers,
-Dave

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

You could do that, and it's maybe the best way to compare quickly. My Y-pipe came with two bungs. You could also, just swap sensors with two sets of wiring in place, until you settle on a setup. BTW many wide band sensor will generate a narrow band signal when properly installed that could be connected or not, to perform the same experiment through one exhaust bung.
Good luck,
Dave

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

I mentioned that I had a wiring issue with my new fans. Well it was me hooking them up wrong. I use a Flex-a-light fan controller for my fans. It is a ground switching arrangement. This means that the controller keeps both fan leads at 12 volts when off and drops the (-) lead to ground when it turns the fan on. I used chassis ground for my new fans, rather than controller "ground". That made them run all the time since + was always +, and ground was always ground. I thought it was switched on the + side. I was wrong.
Now it is working great. Most of you won't run into this, but I thought I'd share anyway.
Good luck,
Dave