Small fuel rail leak
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Unhappy](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon9.gif)
I have found that the connection between the 90 degree elbow of the fuel rail and fuel damper on the drivers side is not 100%.
It is not enough to drip, but when i checked it, my finger was moist with fuel.
Rail and damper are perfectly aligned, the nut goes on without effort and I tightened it as good as could.
Is there a way (other than replacing rail and damper) to fix this?
Thanks in advance for your input.
It is not enough to drip, but when i checked it, my finger was moist with fuel.
Rail and damper are perfectly aligned, the nut goes on without effort and I tightened it as good as could.
Is there a way (other than replacing rail and damper) to fix this?
Thanks in advance for your input.
#4
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yeah a small fuel leak is like being a little bit pregnant. Might try to spay some carb cleaner on a rag and make 100% certain everything at the junction is clean.
Just because the nut goes on without a fight, doesn't mean everything is perfectly aligned. Might try loosening a little, then wiggle a little, then snugging back up hoping the nut turns a little further.
Just because the nut goes on without a fight, doesn't mean everything is perfectly aligned. Might try loosening a little, then wiggle a little, then snugging back up hoping the nut turns a little further.
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The loctite 574 solution was covered in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ail-issue.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ail-issue.html
Last edited by pjg; 12-19-2013 at 08:37 PM. Reason: typo
#7
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just did all my lines in the engine bay. Had one very slight seepage at the front regulator to supply. Loosened up, re tightened and that did the trick. Dont go gorrilla on these fittings. Please check all the rubber lines as they can look ok but be badly cracked and hardened. Mine were, but taking a casual glance looked fine at first.
Trending Topics
#8
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Open it up and check for a burr or piece of grit fouling the sealing surface. Once I had a heck of a time getting that one to seal on my car too. I had to take the rail and damper off the car and study it. I needed to bend the damper mount bracket. Even though it threaded and cinched down, the alignment wasn't quite right to allow it to seal.
#9
Advanced
Thread Starter
#10
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The loctite 574 solution was covered in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ail-issue.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ail-issue.html
#11
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just did all my lines in the engine bay. Had one very slight seepage at the front regulator to supply. Loosened up, re tightened and that did the trick. Dont go gorrilla on these fittings. Please check all the rubber lines as they can look ok but be badly cracked and hardened. Mine were, but taking a casual glance looked fine at first.
#12
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think that I have some permatex 51813 anerobic sealant left...I used it on the rear man crankshaft bearing when I replaced the main seal of my Jeep. It seems to have similar properties as loctite 574.
Would that do the trick?
Would that do the trick?