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I am about to push this freakin car off a cliff!!!

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Old 10-29-2013, 03:09 PM
  #16  
Ad0911
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And how can we prevent this from happening when assembling the waterpump and waterbridge?
Old 10-29-2013, 03:21 PM
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SteveG
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Use anti-seize compound.

Johnu: You probably know this, but get used to the idea of removing stuff to get proper purchase on most any bolt. You don't need a lot of special tools to work on this car . . . .but actually you do. I've bought several sets of "things" to get one particular wrench for one job. Socket head allens might help you here, but I expect you should remove the intake and then you'll find more stuff that needs attention and pretty soon, you'll have the exhaust off. )
Old 10-29-2013, 03:25 PM
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NordicSaab
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3/8 impact gun saved me on this one... same situation too.

Do you have access to air tools?
Old 10-29-2013, 04:00 PM
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17prospective buyer
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This car sucks if you have OCD... just starts with an innocent intake refresh, damn now the TT, engine, exhaust, and gas tank are out of the car...
Old 10-29-2013, 04:30 PM
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Fogey1
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This penetrating oil info has been floating around the web for years. It was first posted here by Wally Plumley, who, iirc, has tried it and says it works. Others on this forum have reported similar results. Here are some links from this forum.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ating-oil.html Wally 2008
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ating-oil.html Glen L 2012
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...teresting.html Jim M 2012

Here's one of the links that shows up if you google "machinist's workshop penetrating oils."
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=350800
Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
There are lots of shade tree engineers who ask, "How do you scientifically rust a batch of fasteners and parts?" I haven't found a link to the actual article but, if it were me, I'd simply clean a bunch of new nuts, bolts and iron bars and dump then in a barrel of salt water for a few days, then bolt all the pieces up and leave them in the same position and same place outdoors for a few months if I lived in Key west, or a few decades if I lived in the Tucson - or skip the barrel of salt water and go straight to the bolting and leaving. Maybe spray salt water on them every day. That'd pretty much make all things equal. After that, it's off to the vise with the torque wrenches and a notebook.

Good luck with your fix. I'll give you ONE HUNDRED US DOLLARS, Cash on the Barrelhead for your car if it will stop you from pushing it over a cliff.

P.S. Manual Impact Drivers are fabulous tools.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P
Old 10-29-2013, 04:30 PM
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yardpro
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welcome to 928 ownership..

I did the wp/TB job 2 years ago. I was lucky that i had a GOOD exotic car shop do it and the entire intake before i bought it... everything came out dandy..

other projects... not so much.
Old 10-29-2013, 04:35 PM
  #22  
johnu
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Success!!!!!!!!!!!
And the winner is...........Phil928!!
I drilled as much of the bolt head as I could, then beat the crap out of it with a mallet and chisel until the head was all broken up. After that, I cut a slot in the top of the remaining bolt and it came out easily! Waterbridge then could be wiggled out.
Thanks again everyone....you saved the '87 from going off the cliff (or being sold for a hundred bucks!)

John
Old 10-29-2013, 04:38 PM
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hitting always works!
Old 10-29-2013, 04:45 PM
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GlenL
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Use a hack saw to cut off the bolt. If the blade is the same thickness as the gasket you won't harm the sealing faces too much.

Take some video as it goes over...if you do that.
Old 10-29-2013, 05:27 PM
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StratfordShark
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Originally Posted by johnu
Success!!!!!!!!!!!
And the winner is...........Phil928!!
I drilled as much of the bolt head as I could, then beat the crap out of it with a mallet and chisel until the head was all broken up. After that, I cut a slot in the top of the remaining bolt and it came out easily! Waterbridge then could be wiggled out.
Thanks again everyone....you saved the '87 from going off the cliff (or being sold for a hundred bucks!)

John
How did you get a drill into head of that bolt? It's almost "hidden" by edge of intake. Did you use a very long bit?
Old 10-29-2013, 05:33 PM
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Dave928S
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Originally Posted by Ducman82
hitting always works!
So does a lot of swearing!
Old 10-29-2013, 07:51 PM
  #27  
The Forgotten On
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So does a lot of swearing!
I know that very well.
Old 10-29-2013, 08:12 PM
  #28  
ROG100
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John,
Hang in there it will all be good in the end.
I think we have all been in your shoes at some point.
Roger
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:55 PM
  #29  
FiveElements
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shoot... I was hoping to see a YouTube of car going off clift
Dang... I wanted to see a video of it going into a lake like Risky Business..
Old 10-29-2013, 08:58 PM
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AirtekHVAC
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I got 100$ for it! If your still selling...


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