Transmission Replacement
05-21-2013 | 11:25 PM
#196
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 15,230
Likes: 2,481
From: Anaheim
Loosen the kickdown cable 6 complete turns, before you adjust the modulator.
If there is no change, tighten the kickdown cable 6 complete turns (do not go to full throttle.)
If there is still no change, the kickdown cable is probably not attached....and the car will shift like crap.
If you are going to try to adjust the modulator, you should have a set of pressure gauges. Short of that, you need to keep really accurate track of how far you are turning it....so you can go "back" to where it was.
If there is no change, tighten the kickdown cable 6 complete turns (do not go to full throttle.)
If there is still no change, the kickdown cable is probably not attached....and the car will shift like crap.
If you are going to try to adjust the modulator, you should have a set of pressure gauges. Short of that, you need to keep really accurate track of how far you are turning it....so you can go "back" to where it was.
05-21-2013 | 11:34 PM
#197
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,260
Likes: 867
From: Roswell, GA
Back when I had an automatic I pulled the shift modulator, turned the "t" counterclockwise and counted the number of revolutions until it stopped. I noted that number than I turned the modulator clockwise until it stopped and wrote down that number. Then I divided the number by two and set the modulator to that number of turns. Then I drove it and either turned it clockwise to make shifts harder or counterclockwise to make them softer. I may have that backwards - anyway I finally got them to where I liked it.
05-22-2013 | 01:16 AM
#198
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,663
Likes: 23
From: North Country
Hi Craig,
Here's a thread on adjusting the modulator:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-pressure.html
I would definately take a look at the modulator.
I had harsh shifting on mine.
I played a bit with the "T" on the modulator and it made a huge difference.
I would recommend to use a pressure set though.
The linkage on the throttle bracket adjust the timing of the shift, and the modulator adjust the harshness - totally independent functions.
I'm sure you'll get it right. Just a question of time.
Here's a thread on adjusting the modulator:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-pressure.html
I would definately take a look at the modulator.
I had harsh shifting on mine.
I played a bit with the "T" on the modulator and it made a huge difference.
I would recommend to use a pressure set though.
The linkage on the throttle bracket adjust the timing of the shift, and the modulator adjust the harshness - totally independent functions.
I'm sure you'll get it right. Just a question of time.
Merci. I'm familiar with the modulator. I hope it makes the difference when I get to it. I just want to be sure there are no other influences outside of the transmission that I need to consider, and address first.
Back when I had an automatic I pulled the shift modulator, turned the "t" counterclockwise and counted the number of revolutions until it stopped. I noted that number than I turned the modulator clockwise until it stopped and wrote down that number. Then I divided the number by two and set the modulator to that number of turns. Then I drove it and either turned it clockwise to make shifts harder or counterclockwise to make them softer. I may have that backwards - anyway I finally got them to where I liked it.
That is quite a thoughtful method. Will bare it in mind.
Loosen the kickdown cable 6 complete turns, before you adjust the modulator.
If there is no change, tighten the kickdown cable 6 complete turns (do not go to full throttle.)
If there is still no change, the kickdown cable is probably not attached....and the car will shift like crap.
If you are going to try to adjust the modulator, you should have a set of pressure gauges. Short of that, you need to keep really accurate track of how far you are turning it....so you can go "back" to where it was.
If there is no change, tighten the kickdown cable 6 complete turns (do not go to full throttle.)
If there is still no change, the kickdown cable is probably not attached....and the car will shift like crap.
If you are going to try to adjust the modulator, you should have a set of pressure gauges. Short of that, you need to keep really accurate track of how far you are turning it....so you can go "back" to where it was.
Will adjust the kickdown cable as you prescribed.
I can feel the tension, and pull, from the spring of the reversing lever when I tense the kickdown cable. This leads me to believe it is attached as I had carefully tended to attaching the cable to the lever on the install.
I will verify nonetheless.
05-22-2013 | 01:43 PM
#199
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,663
Likes: 23
From: North Country
Loosen the kickdown cable 6 complete turns, before you adjust the modulator.
If there is no change, tighten the kickdown cable 6 complete turns (do not go to full throttle.)
If there is still no change, the kickdown cable is probably not attached....and the car will shift like crap.
If you are going to try to adjust the modulator, you should have a set of pressure gauges. Short of that, you need to keep really accurate track of how far you are turning it....so you can go "back" to where it was.
If there is no change, tighten the kickdown cable 6 complete turns (do not go to full throttle.)
If there is still no change, the kickdown cable is probably not attached....and the car will shift like crap.
If you are going to try to adjust the modulator, you should have a set of pressure gauges. Short of that, you need to keep really accurate track of how far you are turning it....so you can go "back" to where it was.
05-23-2013 | 11:13 AM
#200
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,663
Likes: 23
From: North Country
My question is, do I loosen the kickdown any further, or do I now go to the modulator ? My concern is (tell me if I'm correct) if the kickdown is to lax could this increase the likelihood of the the cable's attachment point coming off the lever at the transmission if the tension is reduced.
05-23-2013 | 11:56 AM
#202
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,663
Likes: 23
From: North Country
Not at the proximal end of the kickdown cable where it joins to the linkage quad, but where it unions with the transmission. The distal end of the cable has a hole which simply is held to the reversing lever by the arm (with the right angle) as seen in 3.
05-23-2013 | 12:44 PM
#203
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,260
Likes: 867
From: Roswell, GA
I drove my 86.5 without the ball attached and it never came off at the transmission. The transmission end is like a hook - I have the worst luck in the world and I never had that happen to me.
FWIW, when I swapped an '89 AT into her, I had to reattach it at the transmission - not fun but doable with a 90 deg pick and 45 deg pliers.
FWIW, when I swapped an '89 AT into her, I had to reattach it at the transmission - not fun but doable with a 90 deg pick and 45 deg pliers.
05-23-2013 | 01:05 PM
#204
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 15,230
Likes: 2,481
From: Anaheim
Like I said, these transmissions have come virtually perfectly adjusted. For this one to be that far out of adjustmentt would be very strange It is possible that the modulator may need to be turned slightly to get the "perfect shift" for your desires....but this is generally a "fine tuning" thing.....not something that affects the shifting as radical as the problem you were having.
My initial thought was that you had the kickdown cable mis-adjusted and way too tight. The danger, of course, is that you break the cable at WOT....because it can't stretch....and it isn't very much fun to change!
It will not fall off at the rear. Keep loosening. You are headed in the correct direction. Get the kickdown cable properly adjusted so that you get a full throttle downshift (not hitting the kickdown button at the throttle pedal) at 65mph. When you hit the kickdown button at 65-70 mph, you should get a second down****.
When this is done and works perfectly, you can "fine tune" the modulator to get the smoothness of the shift to where you like it. Until then, I'd personally leave the cap on.
My initial thought was that you had the kickdown cable mis-adjusted and way too tight. The danger, of course, is that you break the cable at WOT....because it can't stretch....and it isn't very much fun to change!
It will not fall off at the rear. Keep loosening. You are headed in the correct direction. Get the kickdown cable properly adjusted so that you get a full throttle downshift (not hitting the kickdown button at the throttle pedal) at 65mph. When you hit the kickdown button at 65-70 mph, you should get a second down****.
When this is done and works perfectly, you can "fine tune" the modulator to get the smoothness of the shift to where you like it. Until then, I'd personally leave the cap on.
05-23-2013 | 01:29 PM
#205
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,663
Likes: 23
From: North Country
Like I said, these transmissions have come virtually perfectly adjusted. For this one to be that far out of adjustmentt would be very strange It is possible that the modulator may need to be turned slightly to get the "perfect shift" for your desires....but this is generally a "fine tuning" thing.....not something that affects the shifting as radical as the problem you were having.
My initial thought was that you had the kickdown cable mis-adjusted and way too tight. The danger, of course, is that you break the cable at WOT....because it can't stretch....and it isn't very much fun to change!
It will not fall off at the rear. Keep loosening. You are headed in the correct direction. Get the kickdown cable properly adjusted so that you get a full throttle downshift (not hitting the kickdown button at the throttle pedal) at 65mph. When you hit the kickdown button at 65-70 mph, you should get a second down****.
When this is done and works perfectly, you can "fine tune" the modulator to get the smoothness of the shift to where you like it. Until then, I'd personally leave the cap on.
My initial thought was that you had the kickdown cable mis-adjusted and way too tight. The danger, of course, is that you break the cable at WOT....because it can't stretch....and it isn't very much fun to change!
It will not fall off at the rear. Keep loosening. You are headed in the correct direction. Get the kickdown cable properly adjusted so that you get a full throttle downshift (not hitting the kickdown button at the throttle pedal) at 65mph. When you hit the kickdown button at 65-70 mph, you should get a second down****.
When this is done and works perfectly, you can "fine tune" the modulator to get the smoothness of the shift to where you like it. Until then, I'd personally leave the cap on.
I knew it wasn't a transmission problem. Wanted to fix my 'external' issues first before adjusting anything on the unit you provided. Honestly I spent a lot of time posting for other causes, and their remedies, for I did not want to 'take the cap off'.
05-23-2013 | 02:34 PM
#206
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,663
Likes: 23
From: North Country
Like I said, these transmissions have come virtually perfectly adjusted. For this one to be that far out of adjustmentt would be very strange It is possible that the modulator may need to be turned slightly to get the "perfect shift" for your desires....but this is generally a "fine tuning" thing.....not something that affects the shifting as radical as the problem you were having.
My initial thought was that you had the kickdown cable mis-adjusted and way too tight. The danger, of course, is that you break the cable at WOT....because it can't stretch....and it isn't very much fun to change!
It will not fall off at the rear. Keep loosening. You are headed in the correct direction. Get the kickdown cable properly adjusted so that you get a full throttle downshift (not hitting the kickdown button at the throttle pedal) at 65mph. When you hit the kickdown button at 65-70 mph, you should get a second down****.
When this is done and works perfectly, you can "fine tune" the modulator to get the smoothness of the shift to where you like it. Until then, I'd personally leave the cap on.
My initial thought was that you had the kickdown cable mis-adjusted and way too tight. The danger, of course, is that you break the cable at WOT....because it can't stretch....and it isn't very much fun to change!
It will not fall off at the rear. Keep loosening. You are headed in the correct direction. Get the kickdown cable properly adjusted so that you get a full throttle downshift (not hitting the kickdown button at the throttle pedal) at 65mph. When you hit the kickdown button at 65-70 mph, you should get a second down****.
When this is done and works perfectly, you can "fine tune" the modulator to get the smoothness of the shift to where you like it. Until then, I'd personally leave the cap on.
Thanks a million Greg.
I knew it wasn't a transmission problem. Wanted to fix my 'external' issues first before adjusting anything on the unit you provided. Honestly I spent a lot of time posting for other causes, and their remedies, for I did not want to 'take the cap off'.
I knew it wasn't a transmission problem. Wanted to fix my 'external' issues first before adjusting anything on the unit you provided. Honestly I spent a lot of time posting for other causes, and their remedies, for I did not want to 'take the cap off'.
I loosened the kickdown two more turns. Test run had perfect shift timing. Turned the modulator key 3 notches (half a complete revolution)...
FUNCTION NOW IS ABSOLUTELY FLAWLESS !
Thanks Greg.
05-23-2013 | 02:57 PM
#207
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 15,230
Likes: 2,481
From: Anaheim
Your saga has been "lengthy" and sad. I didn't want you to make any mistakes without the proper knowledge, ahead of time.
05-23-2013 | 03:16 PM
#208
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,663
Likes: 23
From: North Country
Yes it has been lengthy, but not sad. My pastime had a problem, but with thought, care, and a Greg Brown prepped brand new transmission, the car is not only back but better.
The saga isn't over till you receive the old unit and tell us what the issue(s) were.
Thank you,
Craig
05-23-2013 | 04:55 PM
#210
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,663
Likes: 23
From: North Country
Thanks Bill.
In my youthful exuberance (Hah !) I said absolutely flawless.
With shift timing to the tee I did turn the modulator key 9 more notches (1.5 turns), and now it is ABSOLUTELY FLAWLESS. I can barely perceive the 1 to 2 change off the stop line. Once in motion I really can't perceive the change. Kind of like the old Merc commercial - I can even cut a diamond !
In my youthful exuberance (Hah !) I said absolutely flawless.
With shift timing to the tee I did turn the modulator key 9 more notches (1.5 turns), and now it is ABSOLUTELY FLAWLESS. I can barely perceive the 1 to 2 change off the stop line. Once in motion I really can't perceive the change. Kind of like the old Merc commercial - I can even cut a diamond !